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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, i've been doing a lot of searching trying to figure out the best approach to installing an oil bypass on these 12v's. I'm probably going to go with an oilguard or Frantz. Pressure sending side is easy (port above oil filter housing), but not sure what's the 'recommended' method for the return. I'd like to mount it lower so the filter housing self-drains. I stumbled across some 24v threads and they mentioned a couple closed caps on the rear block above the oil pan that can be removed and tapped to the appropriate hole size.

The only methods i can confirm thus far is
1. Valve cover (don't want to do )
2. plastic filler tube (not in love w/ the idea)
3. Oil turbo return line ( not sure of the exact method for doing this)
4. ?????

Thanks
 

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You could drill and tap (1/8" npt) the plastic oil fill housing on the front of the timing gear cover. The one the oil fill tube screws into.
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I researched and debated all this a couple weeks ago and wound up just using a new Fleetguard LF 9028 bypass filter. So far, so good.
 

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I just mailed in an oil sample after my first LF9028, 10k+ miles on the oil, over 50% towing. I wish I had known that I would put over a million on my truck 12 years ago, I would have installed a bypass also. I don't intend to do another million, or I would do one now.

Do you know that the unused port on the filter housing is unregulated pressure, unlike the oil filter? I have a 100psi gauge installed on mine there. I can easily peg the gauge with about 2000 rpm. From the research I have done, the best system on the market is eco-pur FILTER-PUR, LLC - Eco-Pur but I don't know if they make a kit for pickups. My second choice would be Amsoil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right. I think a restrictor is all that's required for that port. If it truly caused problems id use a sandwich adapter on the oil filter neck.

I had considered the fleet guard bypass, but I think for the high cost of the filter, might as well install an aftermarket unit that uses cheap media. That's my end goal, to run synthetic and not to have to purchase insanely high priced filters. I figure if I can't spend the 10mins to change out a tp roll, I probably need to reassess my workload. That's just my belief, but we're all different and that's OK.
 

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Well, here's another angle. The oil in the pan is unclean. Everything that gets into the engine ends up there. Oil passes through the full-flow filter before it goes to anything sensitive. These add-on bypass systems return oil to the sump, so that sensitive stuff is not seeing the benefit of the bypass filter. The bypass filter will reduce the overall quantity of small contaminants in your oil, but the particles still present can still get to the sensitive stuff.

The LF9028's bypass doesn't dump into the pan, it is fed into the galleries, so by design that filter is significantly more effective as the whole point of removing these small particulates is to prolong engine life, correct?

How many miles do you drive a year? What OCI are you using? At 15k a year with a 10k OCI, I change oil every 9-ish months. Who cares about the extra $24 once every 9 months?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'm estimating I'll probably put 15-20k a year on it. I pretty much have to or I might have this thing for a veeerrryy long time. I'm currently doing 5k changes with Delo. I do 10k changes with synthetic on my tdi diesel and would like to at least mirror that. I Like the idea of spending the money once and pretty much having free media changes (frantz). I can also move the kit to my next vehicle rather than a consumable filter.

I can completely understand the order of operations with the filtering point you made. Even if the bypass kit doesn't get to the particle before it cycles through the engine, it will still get it in a fairly reasonable rate. This is a lot better than never but is something to think about. The external kit might pick up that smaller particle that fleetguard didn't pick up, am I right?
Can the lf filter get clogged? What would happen in that event? Hopefully the full pass still functions.
 

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You're spending twice as much as you need to on oil changes. A search of oil analysis results will reveal that everyone with a healthy engine who has sent a sample in got a report back that their oil with 10-15k on it was still good to run. This is typically without bypass filtration as well.

I'm not informed on TDIs but I would imagine, especially with synthetic, a minimum of 15k would be advisable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BTW, I'm at 166k now. I'd consider myself fortunate to make it to 500k considering the trucks driving schedule. That would equate to ~$800 in extra cost attributed to the lf bypass unit.
 

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I had considered the fleet guard bypass, but I think for the high cost of the filter, might as well install an aftermarket unit that uses cheap media.
Have you read the oil filter analysis from the TDR? There is cheap media, and there is poor quality, which usually goes hand in hand. http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR71_LubeOilFiltration.pdf What are you using as a primary filter?

IMO,if you are going to go through the trouble to install a bypass system, why cheap out? I am hoping that my oil analysis will give me a green light for 20k oil changes, once a year in your case. The LF 9028 is $25, just a little more than twice the price of a Fleetguard Stratapore. In my last oil sample experiment I went 12k with a filter change at 6k. Add the $25 for a sample and it becomes difficult to say I am saving any money. In the end, my goal is to not have to do another engine rebuild.
 

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Have you read the oil filter analysis from the TDR? There is cheap media, and there is poor quality, which usually goes hand in hand. http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR71_LubeOilFiltration.pdf What are you using as a primary filter?

IMO,if you are going to go through the trouble to install a bypass system, why cheap out? I am hoping that my oil analysis will give me a green light for 20k oil changes, once a year in your case. The LF 9028 is $25, just a little more than twice the price of a Fleetguard Stratapore. In my last oil sample experiment I went 12k with a filter change at 6k. Add the $25 for a sample and it becomes difficult to say I am saving any money. In the end, my goal is to not have to do another engine rebuild.
:shock: Where the hell did you find them for $25?
 

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Search - Filterbarn

Shipping is free with orders over $100. With fuel filters and filters for my other vehicles getting to $100 is easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have you read the oil filter analysis from the TDR? There is cheap media, and there is poor quality, which usually goes hand in hand. http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR71_LubeOilFiltration.pdf What are you using as a primary filter?

IMO,if you are going to go through the trouble to install a bypass system, why cheap out? I am hoping that my oil analysis will give me a green light for 20k oil changes, once a year in your case. The LF 9028 is $25, just a little more than twice the price of a Fleetguard Stratapore. In my last oil sample experiment I went 12k with a filter change at 6k. Add the $25 for a sample and it becomes difficult to say I am saving any money. In the end, my goal is to not have to do another engine rebuild.
I was referring to the frantz or oilguard tp filters. High cost up front but it can be used for life and the consumables (the filter) is cheap. Knowing that I can get the lf9028 for 25 shipped definitely changes the calculation though. More like $375, not $800. Definitely something to consider.

One thing that I still don't understand is the recommended change interval on these for a 12v. I know nothing is official so it would have to be past experience. Just seems the external bypass would be a little easier to monitor. How would u know if the bypass portion was clogged on the lf ?
 

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40 years ago, when I saw the TP filter for the first time, I wasn't convinced it was a good media. I'm still not convinced. Any bypass system can be used for life and be moved to other vehicles.

Changing oil by mileage interval is something that came about due a combo of oil company hype, laziness on the part of consumers, and a lack of education about oil analysis. We still hear about 3000 mile oil changes. Using a mileage interval is the easy way out, and for 5 & 6 qt oil sumps, probably the least expensive. Now, with oil getting into the $20 a gallon range, and a 3 gallon sump (I know 11 qts) the cost of oil analysis makes more sense. Oil should be changed on quality, not time or miles. My 10k miles of driving, hauling trailers on the highway will not affect my oil the same as your 10k of driving. The added benefit of analysis will pinpoint coolant leaks, faulty injectors (fuel dilution), and ineffective air filters.

There is no means to determine if the bypass of the LF9028 is clogged to my knowledge. I'm assuming the bypass system does?

After reading the article on oil filters, which do you use now? Paper media or synthetic? Have you ever had an OA?
 
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I chose the front valve cover vs the oil filler, I liked the hose routing a little better and wasn't crazy about tapping into plastic. The benefit of the oil filler though is you can pull the cap and check the flow. Here is a picture of my setup:


And here is the one linked earlier that uses the oil fill neck:

 
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