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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. What’s the deal with these BJs? I’ve read people do them and it’s no big deal, and I’ve read they should only be needed if the inner C is bent and the BJ is a band aid fix for this. I’m asking because my 06 has an offset on the passenger side from the previous owner. I’d like to put in some EMF BJs in the next couple months, but they don’t make an offset that I’ve seen. Besides I’d rather not have one if I don’t need it. Or if they are only for bent axle housings I’d like to know that and get to fixing or replacing what I need to. Thank in advance.
 

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Have the front end alignment checked and if it’s all correct then chances are you need the offset upper ball joint.

I’m in that predicament right now. Mine is 6 to 8 degrees off and I need a .5 degree upper ball joint. The problem is most of your upper end manufacturers don’t make offset joints. Moot lists a 1.0 and a 1.5 in their upper end Problem Solver line.

Do you know what degree offset you have? If it’s 1.0 or more I don’t think you will be able to get away with not using one. If it’s a .5 you might not have to use one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no idea what the degree offset is. I did hear one explanation that control arms that are too short throw the caster off enough that the camber is affected. Then alignment shops resort to an offset balljoint to compensate for the caster bolt not being able to adjust enough for the lift. I’m hoping it’s that, since there is a 5” lift and some sort of adjustable short arms. I just don’t see how the factory would be so far off on the camber that an offset BJ would be needed. Something would have to be bent or just out of spec somewhere. Are you running any kind of lift on your rig? I’m on my phone and can’t see sigs if you have it listed.
 

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I have no idea what the degree offset is. I did hear one explanation that control arms that are too short throw the caster off enough that the camber is affected. Then alignment shops resort to an offset balljoint to compensate for the caster bolt not being able to adjust enough for the lift. I’m hoping it’s that, since there is a 5” lift and some sort of adjustable short arms. I just don’t see how the factory would be so far off on the camber that an offset BJ would be needed. Something would have to be bent or just out of spec somewhere. Are you running any kind of lift on your rig? I’m on my phone and can’t see sigs if you have it listed.
I have a 2” leveling kit on mine. The lift doesn’t have anything to do with camber. A lift can affect caster if the control arm is too short or too long.

In this picture you can see why an offset upper ball joint affects the camber.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
How would a 2” level kit make you need them though? We have a solid front axle. Unless the housing or knuckle were bent the offset would be adjusting a non adjustable factory spec. If camber was supposed to be adjustable Mopar would have an appropriate BJ right?
 

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Again, lift or leveling kits do not affects camber on a straight axle.

Parts wear, stress and are assembled differently. Yes, it could be that the axle tube is bent or stressed. Considering the miles some of these trucks have on them and what they are put through anything is possible.
 

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How are the tires wearing? What is the camber, visually and on a rack?
If the camber is good, with the offset bj, then for whatever reason, you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is the factory specs (or even better a more narrow spec) for camber? I think I’m going to go have it checked this week the tires look awful but the guy before me let the track bar bushings get so bad that I could see through them. That on top of popping BJs and some other click I can’t seem to locate makes me attribute the tires to a poorly maintained front end.
 

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Camber should be zero. As with toe. On a solid axle truck, that's how its supposed to be.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Detroit Axle makes adjustable uppers for our trucks. I have a full set of Detroit Axle ball joints in and so far so good. Make sure you go to a reputable alignment shop though. Some will just fudge the numbers so the don't have to mess with turning the uppers.
 

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I have a leveling kit in 06 Dodge Ram 2500, one wheel had negative camber so I threw in an SPC offset and now it is fully in spec... does it drive any better you ask, well no, but I feel better about it.
 

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I have a leveling kit in 06 Dodge Ram 2500, one wheel had negative camber so I threw in an SPC offset and now it is fully in spec... does it any better to drive you ask, well no, but I feel better about it.
However, the leveling kit does not affect camber at all on a straight axle. Lift and leveling kits affect caster.
 

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However, the leveling kit does not affect camber at all on a straight axle. Lift and leveling kits affect caster.
^^^^^ THIS... X10!!! No solid axle trucks I have ever seen, have "camber". You can raise it 2 feet, or lower it 6".... it still wont have/change camber. If you DO have camber other than 0, after raising/lowering, its because the raising/lowering brought a pre-existing issue (bad ball joint(s)/bent axle etc...) to the fore front. Raising/lowering moves the axle to the back/front, which allows it to twist, which changes the "caster"... which is easily remedied with adjustable control arms
 

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Offset BJ on the passenger side is generally to compensate for a pull in the steering. Certain tires will cause a pull on crowned roads so passenger side is given a touch more castes to compensate, that is the correct way to setup a suspension and steering system.

A lift on a 3rd increases caster, too much lift and not using extended control arms may require adding offset BJ's to allow correct geometry.
 

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I actually think that using an adjustable pressure steering damper is the correct way to fix a truck that always pulls or has tires that pull. Just one small man's opinion.

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^^^^^ THIS... X10!!! No solid axle trucks I have ever seen, have "camber". You can raise it 2 feet, or lower it 6".... it still wont have/change camber. If you DO have camber other than 0, after raising/lowering, its because the raising/lowering brought a pre-existing issue (bad ball joint(s)/bent axle etc...) to the fore front. Raising/lowering moves the axle to the back/front, which allows it to twist, which changes the "caster"... which is easily remedied with adjustable control arms
I didn't say the leveling kit caused the issue only that there was a negative camber and I corrected it using an offset ball joint. That is a fact, you can tell me all you want that it is not possible, I could show you the print out of the alignment but I think you can just take my word for it.
 

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Just my opinion, just about every dodge I've owned has chewed the right outside tire off. Even putting tons of money into bj ,steering dampers, tie rods etc. The only thing that cured it was a offset bj.
 

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I didn't say the leveling kit caused the issue only that there was a negative camber and I corrected it using an offset ball joint. That is a fact, you can tell me all you want that it is not possible, I could show you the print out of the alignment but I think you can just take my word for it.
I never said you DID say it, I was making a point. Nobody said it wasnt possible. Youve also been told if you have any camber, you had an issue like a bent axle, messed up "C" or something... that it rectified. You really should read closer :wink2:
 

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I dont have any of those just a small offset that needed to be adjusted out,.
 
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