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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all my name is Sam, I am new to these forums and would greatly appreciate some input.
2004 5.9 giving me an issue as far as starting properly. When turning the ignition to the on position I can hear an obnoxious buzzing noise coming from driver-side engine bay. Seems to be coming from something fuel related but im not too sure, buzzing stops after about 5-10 seconds. Along with buzzing the motor refuses to start without ether. It takes nothing but a small pinch of ether to get the motor up and running, once running the motor runs amazing. Even after truck is warm if I turn it off and try to restart it I will again have to insert a small amount of ether to get the motor to start again. Im not sure if the buzzing and no start are correlated or if they have nothing to do with each other. Sometimes I will also hear a small constant ticking noise which sounds like it is coming from the back of the motor when the buzzing stops(only while ignition is on). Once motor starts I can't hear buzzing or ticking, not sure if it stops after the motor starts or if I just cant hear the buzzing or ticking over the noise of the motor. I say the buzzing is obnoxious because I had some buddies come over who also have cummins and they told me so. Any help would be appreciated I hope this makes sense for everyone.
this is how everything usually plays out
1. insert shot of ether
2. turn ignition on and hear buzzing for 5-10 seconds
3. after buzzing stops ticking starts and continues to do so until i start the motor
131k on motor
 

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I bet the buzzing is the lift pump priming. Unplug the two wire plug to your lift pump or the relay itself and see if that cuts it out. If not it could be the grid heater but every time you turn the key on (even with the truck warm) I would think its not likely the grid heater. The starting issue I'm not sure about but you know for a fact its fuel related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bet the buzzing is the lift pump priming. Unplug the two wire plug to your lift pump or the relay itself and see if that cuts it out. If not it could be the grid heater but every time you turn the key on (even with the truck warm) I would think its not likely the grid heater. The starting issue I'm not sure about but you know for a fact its fuel related.
Yes i assumed It was the lift pump priming but didn't want to assume. If it is, is that a problem it is making so much noise? Is it on its way out? Also I believe the found the no start issue, after doing some research I looked into the pressure relief valve and I took the banjo bolt off the top of the pressure relief valve, I went to start the truck(after using ether) and after truck started there was a small but steady amount of fuel coming out of the pressure relief valve. This leads me to believe that the pressure relief valve is bad as it should be shut when the truck is starting, especially when it is cold. If anyone has any input on this before I buy a new pressure relief valve that would be appreciated.
 

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Yes i assumed It was the lift pump priming but didn't want to assume. If it is, is that a problem it is making so much noise? Is it on its way out? Also I believe the found the no start issue, after doing some research I looked into the pressure relief valve and I took the banjo bolt off the top of the pressure relief valve, I went to start the truck(after using ether) and after truck started there was a small but steady amount of fuel coming out of the pressure relief valve. This leads me to believe that the pressure relief valve is bad as it should be shut when the truck is starting, especially when it is cold. If anyone has any input on this before I buy a new pressure relief valve that would be appreciated.
I would say before you get a PRV do you have a way to monitor rail pressure? This definitely makes sense. And they have leaked by before and are a common failure part. The thing with the PRV is that if it had opened at a different time and that diesel stays in the line it can give a false diagnosis of being bad...What I would do is try to clear that line to make sure if it opens again you can determine if it was recent or not. If you just want to throw a new one in they are not all that expensive but I would recommend an OE/Bosch one given its importance
 

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Any codes? ECM controls fuel
Then need good fuel to CP3, 9psi at idle from lift pump
Like dirtcheap mentioned need a way to check RP, then 1800psi+ RP for ECM to fire injectors, +/-4K psi to start
Every time you spray with ether risk damaging very expensive fuel/engine parts, Should be for emergency.
 

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03 2500 5.9 SmartyCR, 48re, 340,000 OD
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Any follow up? I also had a weird buzzing/clicking coming from behind my battery on the passenger side. Mine is an 03 and it turned out to be the vacuum pump because I had a broken hose. On my truck it just runs the cruise control, which I never use anyway, so I just unplugged it so I didn't have to mess with fixing the line or sit there listening to is cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would say before you get a PRV do you have a way to monitor rail pressure? This definitely makes sense. And they have leaked by before and are a common failure part. The thing with the PRV is that if it had opened at a different time and that diesel stays in the line it can give a false diagnosis of being bad...What I would do is try to clear that line to make sure if it opens again you can determine if it was recent or not. If you just want to throw a new one in they are not all that expensive but I would recommend an OE/Bosch one given its importance
It did end up being a pressure relief valve… this time…. The issue was fixed. No I’m realizing that the longer I let the truck sit, the longer I have to crank it to get it up and running. After the truck sitting for less than 8 hours it will fire right up. After about a day it will take a good 8-10 second crank to get her up and running. And anything longer than 2 days I will have to give her a “sniff” of diesel. I know ether isn’t great. But I want to make it clear I’m not dumping ether in my intake. I’m doing a quick sniff. Than often waiting 5-10 seconds. Then giving it a”crank and she fires up after a couple seconds so although it’s not the best I don’t think I’m at that much of a risk for hurting something with a sniff. As far as the no start issue now. I have read up and it seems it might have someone to do with a leaky fuel return line? Is this true? Is there a fault line or places I. The fuel system in specific I should be looking for this?
 

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It did end up being a pressure relief valve… this time…. The issue was fixed. No I’m realizing that the longer I let the truck sit, the longer I have to crank it to get it up and running. After the truck sitting for less than 8 hours it will fire right up. After about a day it will take a good 8-10 second crank to get her up and running. And anything longer than 2 days I will have to give her a “sniff” of diesel. I know ether isn’t great. But I want to make it clear I’m not dumping ether in my intake. I’m doing a quick sniff. Than often waiting 5-10 seconds. Then giving it a”crank and she fires up after a couple seconds so although it’s not the best I don’t think I’m at that much of a risk for hurting something with a sniff. As far as the no start issue now. I have read up and it seems it might have someone to do with a leaky fuel return line? Is this true? Is there a fault line or places I. The fuel system in specific I should be looking for this?
It seems like you are losing prime at this point then. So I would try to turn the key to turn on the lift pump and the check the fuel lines from the tank to the engine to find the leak. If its leaking enough there should be evidence on the ground...
 
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