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· MOLON LABE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
running lights were working when i left the house. but when i was pumping fuel at the station i noticed that they werent on.

checked the 32 and 34 fuse and they are both fine.
everything inside works (cluster, maps, dome, etc.)
the lights work for turn, hazards, braking.
headlights and fogs work as well.

what else is there to look for? thanks guys...
 

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ya some more looking if found that the fuse box could be the problem. are trucks have a faulty fuse box and it has to be replace. im going to call my dodge house in the am and talk to them about it
 

· MOLON LABE
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2,606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
checked the connections under the fuse box the best i could. nothing seems to be wrong there.

is there a way to verify it is the box before replacing?
 

· MOLON LABE
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2,606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
also if the whole box was bad why just the running lights? would there be some other symptoms?
 

· MOLON LABE
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2,606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
just went out and put the voltmeter on the 32 and 34 fuse locations and its not gettin juice. put it on 23 (interior lights) just to check my method, and got 12v.
 

· MOLON LABE
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i thought about that but the switch works for everything else, like the cluster for example. plus i think if i dont have any power at the fuse that means i dont have any power at the switch. depending on the weather i might take the box out and see if i cant clean it up or find out whats going on. i been runnin without wheel wells since the rebuild to keep an eye on leaks and i think i may have got some spray up in there or something.
 

· MOLON LABE
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
did you figure yours out?
 

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Most likely the pdm(fuse box) or possibly the fcm after having a right low beam issue and lots if research its normally the pdm. I had 11.7v at both the low and high beam connector on both sides. Checked with test light it only lit on the left low beam. So with our computer controlled lights a multi-meter can fool ya. I ran a jumper wire from my left low beam connector to the right. I have to flash the highs and go back to the lows for them to come on. I'm guessing thats tricking the computer. I'll worry about my pdm when more stuff screws up. No reason to waste like $600 just to get rid of my lamp out light.
 

· MOLON LABE
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2,606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
my headlights, turn signals, brake lights, and hazards are all fine. its just my parking lights. front, rear, license plate lights, and cab lights dont work. theres a relay in there for "parking lamps", is there any way to test it?
 

· MOLON LABE
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2,606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
is there a way to repair the fuse box? or bypass it easily? i took it out yesterday and cleaned out all the connections and put some grease on em. also tried taking it apart to no avail, that sucker is solid.
 

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my headlights, turn signals, brake lights, and hazards are all fine. its just my parking lights. front, rear, license plate lights, and cab lights dont work. theres a relay in there for "parking lamps", is there any way to test it?
There is a way to test them, but I'm not sure on how to explain it. You need to hook 12v to post 30 ground to 85 and then you should have have power at 87a I think. Then leaving 85 and power to 30, put 12v to 86 and your power will go to 87 instead of 87a.. You should have power to where prong 30 goes in. It's easier to swap a relay in that you know works...
 

· MOLON LABE
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i forgot how i did it but what you said sounds familiar. i also swapped out the starter solenoid relay which is the same type and still no results. im getting power to the 50amp fuze and its going to the relay but im not getting the signal from the switch to trip it. its not the switch either because my cluster still lights up. i thought it might have been my viper alarm but i bypassed that and still nothing.

next thing im going to do is see if the signal from the switch is getting to the underside of the pdm and getting cut out somewhere inside before it reaches the relay. if thats the case ill have to do some creative wiring.
 
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