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Truck: 2001 24 valve auto trans - Recently i replaced long block replaced after 53 block cracked and valve port cracks awhile back - ARP studs - Draw Straw - Dynomite diesel 50hp injectors - Reman HY35

Problem: feel like my truck has lost power and has trouble changing gears and building boost.
When i try to go up a hill (not towing) if i do not keep OD off and stay with about 3-5 lbs of boost my truck will completely lose power and boost and completely lag up a hill.
i have to either let off of the pedal a bit and hope it will decide to downshift or put it into 2nd gear myself so i can gain boost pressure to help me get back out of anything under 2000 RPM just is a dog an lags with no boost. The other day i try'd to go back up a steep boat launch after launching my boat and even when i put my truck into 1st with the shift lever my truck just could not make any boost and felt like it just limp mode up the hill no matter how i try driving the truck. The truck also shows signs of this problem on flat road with less degree of severity.

What i have try'd to fix this: I have replaced the injection pump, put on a new DRP fass lift pump. I have replaced the PCM module. I changed the Fuel filter. I adjusted the Throttle position sensor or APPS, I have inspected the turbochargers health seems to be fine with no shaft play as well at good movement and adjustment in the Wastegate. I installed a low pressure fuel warning light to ensure i have good pressure on the low pressure system. I have try'd adding a smarty and it helps improve power when on low settings but the fuel and timing is horribly tuned on it so i put the truck back on stock to prevent any possibility of damaging the engine. Something feels not right i feel like its electrical related. I try'd clearing the codes with the smarty and disconnecting both battery's then reseting the foot pedal calibration. that did not work either. still showing codes after too. I also notice the APPS or TPS sensor has MEXICO on it. I sometimes wonder if like my old 53 block this thing is junk too. I also Checked the MAP sensor it seems to be working fine.

Codes my truck is throwing: 1693 0523 0522 0230 0230 is a companion code i cannot get ahold of any kind of DTC reader that will read the JTEC companion code.

PLEASE ANY HELP OR INPUT TO HELP ME GET THIS GREMLIN OUT OF MY TRUCK WOULD BE EXTREMELY APPRECIATED!
 

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That's great you got it figured out. (y)
There's a lot of things that will make a vehicle run bad with out throwing a code directly related to the problem area, in this case the Map sensor. The only way to figure these problems out is by viewing the live data with a scan tool and knowing what is normal and what is not. The other way is like you did it, by throwing parts at the thing until you get it. It works but can be costly.
Looks like your original thread got deleted and new one changed, slightly. P0230 is not a companion code.
 

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Yeah i have a new problem now @maxwedge572 I cannot find a MAP sensor that matches the shape of the electrical connector. all the ones i can get from the parts stores have a half moon shape instead of a box shape like mine. i am talking about the shape of the connection near the pins. my connector will still plug into the ones with the half moon from the parts store but it throws a low voltage code and keeps my check engine light on. even though it fixes my trucks power loss problem. i took the truck out and the turbo started spooling immediatly fuel being delivered now nomore defueling. but i need the right MAP sensor and i cannot find it anywere!!
908226
908227
908228
908229
 

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You look at Genos? I was just browsing their catalogue and saw it listed.
 

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that looks the same as others i have looked at. why does it have a half moon shape instead of the square shape. It will throw low voltage.they never show you the shape of the inside near the pins @maxwedge572
 

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Why do they sell a bunch of wireing harness kits on all the websites and partsstores too. do i have to splice in a new harness? will i get the same problem? @maxwedge572
 

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Genos sell s the right stuff, if you still have a problem after it will be in another direction.
 

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The harness if for 02 only.
A lot of the parts for our trucks are being discontinued, so some adapters are needed for some years of trucks.
 

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You're getting P0237 now? And had no map sensor codes before?
 

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I have some check outs you can do on this circuit, hang on while I figure it out and type it.
 

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Okay, you need a decent multi meter for this. The 1st step, just disconnect the map sensor connector and check with the key on approx 5 volts on the orange wire. It can be anywhere from about 4.8-5.2 volts. Turn the key off and now switch your meter to resistance (ohms) and measure from the black/light blue wire of the connector to a good ground or battery negative. You should see under 1 ohm but really should be around .5 ohms. The last check you are checking the sensor out circuit but all you can really do here in your case is check the harness. To really check it you have to have an oscilloscope or real scan tool to read live data, like I posted before. You're going keep your meter on resistance and now disconnect the ecm connector and measure between the Gray/Red wire at the sensor connector and the same wire at the ecm. You should see under .5 ohm. I've attached a "pin out" diagram of the ecm connector, it's pin 8 you want. Be careful with this connector especially when you plug it back in, make sure it's straight and lined up before you slam it home.
 

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One more thing. The female pins on the ecm connector are delicate. You need an alligator type attachment on your meter leads and you can use a safety pin attached to it to just touch the ecm pin for your testing. Be careful here.
 
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