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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, new guy here. I've been trolling for quite some time and finally bought a 2003 2500 about two months ago. My problem is like the title states, when driving unloaded normally is seems fine, but if you shift late and let the RPM rise more than normal or take off fast it falls on its face, it will actually slow down.


The truck I believe is close to stock, the exhaust manifold is tapped for an EGT and the wast gate is threaded. I have a Autel scan tool that I used to read boost, but I don't think something is right or something is really wrong with the motor. It reads 14.5 PSI at idle and goes to 37 under WOT (before this problem).

As it sits It has a P0483 and P0234. I don't think they are related to the problem but who knows...

I don't know much about diesel, but it feels like its running out of fuel, there is no smoke from the tail pipe, it just won't accelerate, but you can hear the turbo spool up and my scan tool says about 33-35 when it does it.

Any ideas? If i left anything out please just let me know.


Thanks, Rob.
 

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You probably need a boost fooler the previous owner probably had a tuner with boost fooling in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You probably need a boost fooler the previous owner probably had a tuner with boost fooling in it
I was thinking that but why would this all of a sudden start, I've put over 7K miles on it since I got it, and it just started today...

Could it be as simple as the fuel starting to gel? I drove it a few weeks ago in much lower temp about -15 F today was about +16F
 

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Yes on the fuel gel.

Also change the fuel filter if it's anywhere near time.

Watch the tailpipe for smoke and color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Watch the tailpipe for smoke and color.


Will do tom on the filter.

Should have stated that in the first post, no smoke at all from tail pipe. It has never really smoked at all tho, only when warming up in the morning.
 

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I don't think the two codes will be fixed by the filter change but I would do it for the symptom.

The 480 is common after someone blows a belt and the belt hits the crank position sensor. The code is really saying I'm measuring the fan speed and it doesn't match the engine speed.

The overboost code is less common.
Two things somewhat commonly cause the engine to go faster than the computer expects.
They will also create an overboost pressure.
Oil from a leaking turbo seal and an overfueling injector. Both can be really bad news if you don't catch them.

Your boost should be near or at 0 when idling. 14.5psi is not right.
The map sensor in the intake can be cleaned with the correct maf/map cleaner from the auto parts store. Maybe yours is gunked up. Maybe from oil from the turbo?
 
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Your electric fan clutch is bad. This will caause a defuel issue above 1/2 throttle or load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quick update, I changed the fuel filter. When I was removing the fuel from the filter bowl I saw what looked like rust. I think it algae from sitting, it only has 37k. How bad would that be? I got all I could out, when I drove it it has much more power but still seems off. If it is algae when do I need to do to fix the problem?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Oh wow! That's no bueno...I would reccomend flushing the entire fuel system. If that make its way to your injectors you can just about count on an expensive bill!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh wow! That's no bueno...I would reccomend flushing the entire fuel system. If that make its way to your injectors you can just about count on an expensive bill!
Sorry for the noob question but,



Is that something I can do myself, if so what do I need to do and how hard? Our should i take it somewhere?
 

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You can buy an additive from NAPA called 'Biocide'. It works. it kills it and the filter collects it.

I have also been successfull using a couple gallons of gasoline to kill that stuff.
What I learned it to keep the tank full when it is going to sit for long.
 

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I've been out of the states for so long I don't know for sure what the best biocide's are but I'm sure there is many.

I worked in the marine environment which makes algae a common not an exception.
The best product available for cleaning and maintaining was bio bore. I'm sure others are fine but that one is very good. Follow the instructions on dilution. Also add it before you fill the tank not after. It can cause major sludge to form and clog lines if it just settles down to the water on the bottom of your tank. I would also take it for a minimum 10 minute drive after filling to mix things up.

Buy at least two filters to change out. They will likely be clogged quickly from the new dead sludge that the algae becomes.

Keeping a full tank helps reduce condensation which is the most common place for water to get in the tank in the first place. No water= No algae.

If you have a jack like a transmission jack to lower your tank or helping hands and less than 5 gallons in the tank it would be better to drop it and clean it out. It would take a pressure washer to actually get the grime off the walls.
Then drying out the tank becomes tricky but can be done with common sense and dry heat.

Yours doesn't look that bad so you know. Most small boats filter housings look like that very often. I've changed 1000's worse without issue.

I don't know if gasoline kills the bacteria but it makes sense. If you do that ONLY do that to clean the tank while removed then clean that out until vapor free. Do not add it to your diesel.

Happy cleaning.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate all of the help guys! I ordered three Baldwin filters, and Power Service Bio Clean.



Your boost should be near or at 0 when idling. 14.5psi is not right.
The map sensor in the intake can be cleaned with the correct maf/map cleaner from the auto parts store. Maybe yours is gunked up. Maybe from oil from the turbo?


Not to change the subject too much but I will clean the MAP sensor tom or the next day, when ever I have time. If that doesn't fix it what else could cause that reading?


Thanks!
 
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