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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am running a raceme tuner , dpf delete, and cai , and have yet to get over a Max of 11 mpg ( on the overhead) , which is the same as i got before mods. I know these overheads have been known to be inaccurate but still, I would think that i would at least see a change.

Is there anything common with these engines that can happen and drastically reduce mpg etc that anyone else has experienced?

It is a 2011 6.7 DRW with 68RFE 140K miles

Open to any suggestions
 

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TPMS adjustment guy
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You run empty or tow or both? City or hwy or both? How long you had the raceme installed? I don't understand how done trucks get 20mpg, like mine, and some only get 11, like yours assuming the same conditions, driving habits, etc. I do know there are many factors involved. Maybe clean or replace your MAP sensor. Likely a ton of soot throughout many engine parts of you only deleted recently with that mileage. I have the same year and similar mileage. Been averaging 17-18 right now with winter blend diesel here in the STL area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its probably 90% city,I do tow, but this is all with no trailer, i do have quite a bit of in bed toolboxes probably 800 lbs worth of stuff, so i don't expect like amazing mileage. I am right now at 9.5-10 overhead on winter blend. Haven't cleaned MAP though, But do you think it could affect MPG that drastically, i just assumed i would see an improvement over the 10mpg i got stock after i got the straight pipe, intake, and tuner

The raceme tuner says it electronically deletes the egr , do you think it would do any good for a physical egr delete.

Had the tuner since about 120k
 

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TPMS adjustment guy
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Just noticed you're a DRW which will make for less mpgs too. I'd say your biggest killer is that city driving. Not sure you're going to get a whole lot better. Cleaning the MAP can't hurt but don't expect miracles. I know nothing about the raceme but from what I've read, in general the EGR can't completely close when only disabled so a small amount of soot is still getting back into the engine but I don't think that is really affecting your mileage. After 120k miles and mostly city driving, I can only imagine the amount of soot on the intake horn, EGR and grid heater. You might be :shock: when it looks like this ... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/0...918089-grid-heater-delete-2.html#post10149713
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah i'd bet its probably pretty clogged Lol. I plan to do that as soon as it warms up a bit. Taking into account it is a 4X4 and dually is not helping me it was just kind of surprising i didn't get one single small change in MPG after all the money spent. :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if it is that far off , would that make my distance till empty off as well? because it is still the same as before as well. I know that the overhead is inaccurate but i thought it would change at least proportionately, whether it is wrong or not.
 

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I say clean your map sensor. I did mine last week and it was covered completely in soot. I can say I did get about 1mpg or so more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you think that the grid heater being plugged up along with MAP sensor dirty could net me back the 2 or 3 more mpg that i should have , or will it not make a drastic difference?
 

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Do you think that the grid heater being plugged up along with MAP sensor dirty could net me back the 2 or 3 more mpg that i should have , or will it not make a drastic difference?
It could definitely have an impact on fuel mileage. There is a thread on here thats just for cleaning your MAP sensor. Your MAP sensor is certainly gunked up and covered in soot. Mine looked horrible at only 10k miles. Not saying its definitely your issue, but its definitely an extremely easy place to start. Takes about 10 min to take care of.
 

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Do you think that the grid heater being plugged up along with MAP sensor dirty could net me back the 2 or 3 more mpg that i should have , or will it not make a drastic difference?
I was thinking the same thing about the heater grid. I'm going to be taking a trip next month I think I may just rip it all off and see how bad it is and cleaning it
 

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So if it is that far off , would that make my distance till empty off as well? because it is still the same as before as well. I know that the overhead is inaccurate but i thought it would change at least proportionately, whether it is wrong or not.
Yup, your DTE will be way off as well. Mine isn't even close on my truck since I've deleted it. It's reading high rather than low though.

Also, if you've changed tire size on the truck that will affect the numbers as well. You need to calculate the tire size difference and factor that into your numbers.

Do you think that the grid heater being plugged up along with MAP sensor dirty could net me back the 2 or 3 more mpg that i should have , or will it not make a drastic difference?
I don't know if that would equate 2-3 mpg but it's definitely something that I'd clean out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, I have seen where everyone has said the display is always off on mpg but I've never heard any case of reading low ... Just trying to get as many ideas into my head on possible issues and things to check . I'm putting it in my warm shop on Friday so want to do everything I can , once it's out I'm not really wanting to work on it in the cold . Lol
Thanks for all the replies guys
 

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Do you notice if you fill up the same amount, or less? Had a '07.5 a year ago and just bought a '11. Gears, tires, engine power, RPM at speed all exactly the same and the '07.5 got 2mpg better doing the exact same route. Figured out and the EVIC show the same and I have to fill the '11 a day sooner.
Sorry, about your question the DTE is from the MPG so it follows that like a good little puppy. Maybe think on this before taking anything apart, though cleaning the MAP is a good idea no matter what.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's the same, and that was kind of what bugged me after spending all the money for the deletes and tuner I didn't see one change, but I bought it used so not sure if it got any better earlier in its life when it was stock, but when I got it it was around 11 on evic and now it's still 11 on evic . I'm curious what kind of mpg do you get on the evic of your 2011?
 

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What setting are you running the RaceME on? You probably won't see much gain in MPG on the lower setting. On the higher settings is typically where you see your gains IF you can keep your foot out of the skinny pedal.
 

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I am running 14- 14.5 right now today, That's with the winter front on and warming it up 5min before taking off morning and night, been low teens to zero here. Without the winter front it runs 15. Only had it 3 weeks now, but had the mega cab exactly a year ago(only kept it 2 months sad story), that's why I wonder about the MPG.
The thing I am keyed on in my case is filling the tank a day early, though would not need to get home, lost half a day in fuel which is the difference in mpg. My mega the evic was 1- 1.5 high, the 11 is almost dead on.

khakicummins has a good point, have you tried different settings on the raceme? I believe you can even fine adjust the injection some. The customers I have helped out did not see any gains on the stock settings, they are running tow setting now and helps some. They are contractors carrying weight all the time.
The best benefit, one truck I did the DPF full was stuck on and the delete kit was only couple hundred more than cleaning the stupid thing- never worry again.
Of course all those trucks are no longer licensed or driven on public streets!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, i'm running the RaceMe on the "Tow" setting. I did try the 120 hp setting and it felt like it ran rough, and i got some injector noise along with it so I worry that that would be too much with all of the head gasket horror stories i have read. Also, before i experiment with that more i kinda wanna get my pyro and boost gauges to keep an eye on things.

I just pulled MAP sensor and it was a brick of Carbon, I will post a pic later. It was bad Haha.
 

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DO NOT use the hot setting without head studs at least. I was just rereading some, if you drive mostly in town you won't see much difference at all. Most of the big gains are on the highway. Also, check the throttle valve. It's on the end of the intake horn. Make sure it did not close some, this has happened I have read before. It should not work at all and you can take it off now and put a spacer on to hook up the CAC tube which is what I would do.

P.S. maybe I will clean my MAP at lunch tomorrow!! I bought this truck thinking it would just be prettier than the 07.5,but want the mileage back.
 
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