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The thing you are doing when you purge is clearing air from the line. i.e after a bottle change and etc. if you keep the system closed after runs, no. It just looks cool
 
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not really needed. poeple like it just to show off..waste of nitro IMO
 

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:thumbsup:
is a purge totally necessary?
On a diesel it's not really necessary.

If you were running a huge shot 200HP + it could make a difference of maybe 1/10 second (1/4 mile speaking), most likely even less than that in a diesel application. If you were running the truck in competition were 1/10's & 1/100's of a second mattered then it would be a good idea.

The purge solenoid was designed for gassers with a "wet" system not a dry system as with diesels. They need to purge all air out of the nitrous line(s) so that when the system is activated they avoid over fueling (gas) for that split second (super rich). The fuel line(s) up to the fuel (gas) solenoid(s) on a wet gas system will not have any air once they are primed the first time. The fuel lines do not go through the hook-up/un-hook cycle that nitrous lines do at the bottle and so on...So if they don't purge the air in the nitrous line(s) the nitrous will be a little later than the extra fuel causing a super rich condition which will effect the ET.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
if i were to unhook the bottle without a purge, then hooked it back up, could i just leave the ignition off and bump the switch a few times to prime the line?
 

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if i were to unhook the bottle without a purge, then hooked it back up, could i just leave the ignition off and bump the switch a few times to prime the line?
I assume your using this just to have a little fun(?) If yes.....

You really don't want to do this - Really no need to do so either.

In your application you'll just be wasting nitrous. If your that worried about it just hook it up, go for a ride, arm the system, activate for a second or less and you will purge all of the air while the engine is running. Or activate for several seconds and enjoy the nitrous instead of wasting it.

How are you arming and activating your system?

Hobbs switch?

Progressive system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
the activation was gonna be the second half of my questions lol i was leaning towards a button to hit at wot, unless someone can point me in the direction on where to get a tps switch to activate at wot!
 

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Just get the zex kit comes with a hobbs switch and tps switch mine activates after 5psi and at wot
 

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I run mine on a full manual system so I can let go at the first sign of not wanting it. I have a system arm (or energize) and an activation on my gear shift of the column. As far as purging I bring it up to 2000-2500 rpm and just tap the button a few times usually 5-10 times of just a tap each and it's good to go. If you do a manual setup like mine then you can use it to help spool as well while staging at the line when you would see more than 5 psi but not WOT.
 

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Here's my purge. I thread it onto a fitting mounted to my hood when I run at the track. It gets lots of comments and people telling me to hold up because I left my beer on the hood.








 

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I run mine on a full manual system so I can let go at the first sign of not wanting it. I have a system arm (or energize) and an activation on my gear shift of the column. As far as purging I bring it up to 2000-2500 rpm and just tap the button a few times usually 5-10 times of just a tap each and it's good to go. If you do a manual setup like mine then you can use it to help spool as well while staging at the line when you would see more than 5 psi but not WOT.
Or to spool once you find some traction on a dirt track! Haha
 

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There several ways to activate your system.

Budget system choices:

*Manual, as others have mentioned.

*Hobbs switch as previously mentioned.

*Hobbs switch w/TPS (APPS) to allow activation at WOT only.

More expensive route:

*Boost Reference Progressive System w/TPS (APPS) WOT (Best in my opinion)

I run a Nitrous Express NXD5000. With a system like this you have more control. I also run a lightning solenoid which eliminates the need for jet(s). The signal from the controller to the solenoid determines the size of the shot based on user input.

Using supplied software the end user enters the desired info into the program and then downloads this info via laptop to the progressive controller.

You can control boost start %, nitrous % at this value and ramp the nitrous to the desired % at the end boost setting. This may sound complicated, however it's really not once you get hang of it. All you need is a laptop, basic computer skills and a couple full bottles on nitrous.:party018:

Another advantage is it's a little easier on HG's because cylinder pressures ramp up (if you will) vs. 100% BAM with other methods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks guys! nicalexx i see that you run a 12.1 in the quarter...what kind of boost do you see on a launch? ive got a billet 64 over a billet 76 so i was hoping 12s, but with more air and fuel than you i wonder if i can hit 11s?
 

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I generally leave at 20 lbs. If the track prep is good and sticky I go 25 lbs.
I'm also shooting for 11's. I have a new set of Mach 7's on order I'll be trying out in the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Where are you guys spraying into? Hot side ic, cold side ic or intake horn? Ive heard hot side ic is good so it can be used to cool intake charge? A 20 psi launch must look sick lol
 
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