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Discussion Starter #1
Thread Summaries knowledge base. A newbie's guide to 4th Gen Cummins

In order to not detract from the goal - Please PM me your changes, better examples, proofing, and anything else you think I should edit. I highly encourage anyone to post information that could be used for new sections esp links to threads, mod ideas, that newbies or I should know about. I'll add a section and update the Table of Contents.

Please see section 1 for who, why, and what this thread is geared towards.

Page 1

Why I started with 3 posts - I hit the character limit with just 1 post so I had to split up the info for later growth.

Table of Contents
The sections are numbered

Page 1/post 1
1.) Summary of Project
2.) deleting, with and without tuning, To delete or not to delete
3.) Deleting thread - Why people do it, Pros and Cons and more
4.) EGR, throttle valve, and return-to-stock corrosion protection connector cover kits
5.) Diesel diagram for basic understanding
6.) Oil Analysis with no deletes
7.) Sims, basics, DIY for a couple bucks
8.) Exhaust specifics for delete and more
Notes: Attached Excel 2007 "program" to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades

Page 2/ post 2
9.) What happens inside the cab after deleting, Codes (including a entire code list)
10.) Code readers and clearing codes,
11.) Bluetooth and wifi readers for tablets, phones, & computers
12.) Tuner comparison chart/ member's tuner knowledge base
a.) EFILive videos, tuners, autocal aka spade versus the V2, links
b.) SMarty Jr Videos, shared files, links
c.) H&S​
13.) Monitors and gauges
14.) Tires that are bigger but ok for gas mileage
15.) Fuel filter system to avoid replacing the $80 fuel filter every 15k miles
16.) What are Studs, why you need them, and how much they are

Page 3/ post 3
encase I need more room years down the road
17.) Stereo stuff links, installation, cameras, routing, electric, steering controls, mic
18.) All about Oil and changes
19.) Replacement filter numbers & cross reference info
20.) How to - EGR valve and cooler cleaning & video
21.) Small upgrades and easy fixes
a.) The notorious Manual 4x4 transfer case shift lever rod/linkage loose/missing - upgrade/fix
b.) Upper glove box conversion​
22.) Turbo cleaning, parts, uprades, tips, videos and links
23.) Video playlist - Top 10 mods - basic info about mods for ideas
24.) Cold air intake & ading just the rab scoop for only $99
a.) S&B - Videos, Install, results, etc
b.)aFe - Videos, Install, results, etc
c.)Banks - Videos, Install, results, etc​
25.) Empty - I'm thinking sensor cleaning/replacement section here
26.) Tips and tricks to making a post on the forum

Section 1

Summary of Project/Thread
You can skip this if you want to get straight to the info this just explains the goal

What this thread is about:
I see a lot of the same questions throughout threads from people who are new to Diesel. They are the same questions I had/have. Rather than read hundreds of pages of threads like I did, I am summarizing them as I go. Then I have a place to go back to when I want to upgrade something or need a link to a part, and also to help other newbies in the process. I will continue to update as I go, it will not always be edited especially when I post stuff from my cell to edit later. Maybe it will become a good sticky some day.

Why is this good for you:
So far as of week 2, I have read 70+pages on tuners, 50+ pages on DPF deleting, countless pages on tires, and probably a solid week of reading all day in the past two weeks; I work 12 hr shifts and get 4 days off a week. To keep this thread size down I tried not to add things that failed - like the dozen things that failed when trying to delete the 2012 EGR function or device without a tuner.

So one of the first things you see in a lot of posts is delete this, or delete Did he just say what I thought he said
??? So lets start there.

Section 2

Delete Basics

Delete - Removing a mechanical device, and/or using software to delete the use of a device. You can delete/remove the muffler and/or you change the software on the ECM so that it doesn't use sensors in the exhaust or other parts to bypass funtions, thus tunes on a tuner device can also be deleting.

A Tuner can be a person who makes tunes or a device that has those tunes on it, so hopefully the term doesn't confuse you later.

Thread about Pros and Cons about deleting -

A few more pros and cons found through out threads:
This is info often discussed and asked about, so here are some of their points​

1.)Con -How do you put it back in for emissions testing? -This requires bolting on the exhuast every year for the day you go do the emissions test.

2.) Con - If you delete the EGR hardware you will need to bolt it back on for emissions testing. Personally I was thinking you could also bolt the EGR back down with a sheetmetal plate insert to block the valve off, but make it easy to change for emissions testing later.

3.)Pro - Many members mention cleaner oil, and that fewer oil change lights come on- the oil change indicator doesn't come on every 2500 miles due to soot in your oil. Less frequent oil changes leads to less carbon footprint. Some discuss which has a higher carbon footprint, gallons of oil, toxic waste after recycling/cleaning the oil, transportation of the extra oil needed, vs no emissions equipment and visible soot? Next a few words on that, because you may be wondering a few things about soot.

The DPF is actually just filtering the soot while we drive, and also during the emissions test. Once the DPF starts getting clogged it's goes through a regen and is cooked/broken down like a self cleaning oven. This is why you will not pass an emissions test during a regen. The Co2 ends up in the skies anyway as a finer particle. Carbon is carbon you can't get rid of the molecule, it has to come out eventually, just in a smaller form.

4.)Pro With no soot being recirculated via the cooler and EGR back into the intake, the air in the combustion chamber is cleaner. The truck then uses less gas, along with injector timing changes, and other things - like the DPF you don't need are removed, and less gas is needed to compensate for those issues or parts. Then you have less issues with soot clogging up your, sensors, turbo, and oil. Why have an air filter if you are just going to put soot back into the intake. Less carbon foot print for new parts ruined by soot recirculation. But wait that soot contains gas to be reburned and used - well it wouldn't have as much gas if the amount injected was less, timing such as post ignition event and regens were changed, and other such factors are changed. Hu? A lot of those terms will make sense soon.

5.) Pro - If you can tune a leaner intake via turbo pulsing, injector usage, and other factors, how does waste and the real carbon footprint compare to stock in the long run - Members report up to 22mpg and as many have pointed out that almost half the gas for the same miles driven is a lot less Co2.
200k miles /22 mpg = 9,090 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $22,727 spent on fuel
200k miles /14 mpg = 14,285 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $35,714 spent on fuel
Thus 14,285 gal - 9090 gal = 5195 x 2.50 a gallon = 5195 gallons or $12,987 of extra fuel wasted

My opinion - The EPA has the emissions testing as an institution/industry as a way to limit Co2 and other harmful molecules/chemicals from entering the ozone, etc. The tests don't take into consideration any of the excess waste and thus the overall carbon footprint mentioned above.

I don't have DEF on my 2012 truck. I haven't read threads on DEF, from the few things I saw it changes the chemical composition of the molecules to Urea or uses Urea to change the composition to pass emissions. I will update this if someone will post an explanation and thread for further reading. Update - Understanding Diesel Exhaust Fluid - Basic Training - Diesel Power Magazine

Read more to understand what the basics of a DPF is and how soot is recirculated

Section 3

Delete on the cheap thread - Below is a summary of the 50 pages after 1st post:
“Delete on the cheap” does not require a tuner, some dealers will honor the warranty, It lets the motor breath for cheap. It just stops wasted gas/heat being dumped into the exhaust. If you can unplug your EGR (2010 & 2011 trucks) then you only get fresh air in your cylinder vs recycled soot. UPDATE - I read a Banks Power article last week that said arguably the EGT's (heat in the exhuast. The post ignition event creates more heat/EGTs.

’10-’12 6.7L Cummins “Delete on the cheap” thread with the parts list & links in the first post:

Answers to the rest of the questions I had after reading the first post:

Regen - regeration or cooking of the soot in the DPF “filter” = lots of fuel and heat/energy being wasted into the exhaust.

Post Ignition event – separate but similar to a regen type effect - wasted fuel is used to heat the exhaust during acceleration etc.

EGTs Exhuast Gas Temerature - "few things will damage or kill a diesel engine faster than excessive exhaust gas temperatures" Banks Tech Article Banks Power | Why EGT is Important

EGR - exhaust gas re-circulation – takes exhaust soot made by a piston firing and recirculates it it back into the cylinder with new gas so the soot can be broken down more before it makes it to the DPF. Basically it's making the air dirty in the combustion chamber. See this loop in the diagram pic below

The exhaust delete options from the top down:

Cat or catalytic converter (aka the down pipe), from the turbo, towards the back down to the horizontal exhaust section under the truck That's why after market systems have "turbo back" in the title. The cat can also be removed for a much louder exhaust, but it will smell more like sulfur as well. With the cat left in, the exhaust is closer to stock sound levels if you don’t want people/cops to notice you, and you won’t smell like rotten eggs
Page 47 post #559 shows the muffler as mostly just a straight through pipe. People state in their experience it just removes drone sound made above 2000 RPM, thus the cat is the primary sound deadening device in the system not the muffler.[/I]

Nox container that plays a role in the soot cooking is the first chamber in the horizontal exhaust

DPF container/"filter" on the exhaust. Think of it as a self cleaning oven, fed by more gas creating more heat (EGTs) from the Regen and/or Post Ignition Event. As soot travels from the cylinder to your tailpipe it gets caught in the filter inside the DPF and later it is self cleaned once it gets clogged enough.

Muffler The third chamber furthest to the rear
Section 4

Unplugging the EGR
so soot is not recirculated:​

2010 & 2011 trucks: You won’t get a check engine light aka CEL from unplugging the EGR. You can leave it in or get the egr delete kit and throttle valve delete kit (or take out the butterfly valve.)

2012 trucks: There is no non-tuner delete trick - people have tried and failed by removing the butterfly, removing EGR piston, removing the actuator, unplugging, making butterfly valves with holes in them for more clean air mixture, removing the actuator for butterfly valve, unplug and delete codes, disconnect the pipe coming from the exhuast that feeds the soot back to the air intake - Nothing worked and all attempts lead to derate and then limp mode, or bucking of the truck. Simply put the system is too smart/sensitive. Believe me, I have a 2012 and have read every thread on the subject spending over 12 hours reading to find answers to just that subject to avoid spending money on a tuner right away.

For '11 &'12 or tuned '12 trucks:
Sinister EGR delete kit $200:


Evergreen EGR kit $92:

Throttle valve delete

For kit's without the coolant hose and a plug follow these directions to make the coolant system work up there too.

For throttle bodies

Take the butterfly valve out and unplug the sensor. Use a heat guns to unscrew the screws, or they will eventually snap since the back side is peened so they don't unscrew, some have twisted the head off and unscrewd them from the back side that is peened if the head broke off. Mark the top and front of the butterfly in the throttle so You know which way is which later down the road.

Sinister kit:

Red kit:

Otherwise add an intake horn - Rollin Smoke Diesel. Air Intake Horns

Connector corrosion covers:
Shibby '7.5-'09 plugs only misssing one cover for '10 to '12 trucks (the throttle one) - Shibby Engineering XRT/BlackMaxx Plug Set (07.5-09)

Connectors to unplug
EGR (drivers side)
Cooler (Passenger side)
Throttle valve (drivers side below EGR, may want to do it from under the truck)
Crossover tube sensor drivers side in front of EGR)
Exhaust connectors

Section 5


Notice the EGR cooler and EGR valve, then how the exhaust is rerouted from the right side of the cylinder up and back to the left side of the cylinder if the EGR valve is open. Now put an oven to the left of the muffler, then pour gas/heat out of the cylinder into the exhuast down to the oven. The oven then self cleans like a home oven using very high heat when it gets clogged up.

Section 6

Pre-delete oil analysis while using the stock system:​ Stock burns more fuel and you have to change oil twice as often with emission equipment, but you get a cleaner tail pipe. My opinion: It seems oil vs smoke would be the clincher in that fight of which has a larger carbon footprint. I saw a documentary on Netflix that said methane from livestock is actually the largest polluter of green house gases, thus our trucks don’t make a dent compared to animals. Now don't get me wrong here....Before you slay me, I’m not vegetarian at all, and in fact, I did a meat with low carb veggie diet only, for about a year and lost 60 lbs; but I digress.

Section 7

Sims and sensors:

Sims: (100ohm not 300) can be plugged into the delete pipe to fool the ECM(computer) into thinking the DPF /“oven” is hot enough and doesn’t need more gas to regen/”self clean” thus fuel is saved .

Bungs – Threaded female ports on the exhaust for the 02 sensors.

Plugs – fill the other bung ports not used

Thread - DIY sims for a couple bucks make sure you make 100 ohm ones:

$69 sims: Shibby Engineering 2010EGT100 100 Ohm EGT Sims or call SDP

Sims just plug in. Dielectric grease in these connectors will help with recalls of corrosion at this location with the real sensors. They have a 2 pin electrical connectors.

Sim Basics thread if you want to learn more:
Note: With a tuner, the new software in the ECM won’t need the sims.

2 x O2 sensors one is located above the cat, reached behind the turbo, another will go in the horizontal delete pipe below. Move the old sensors to the new exhaust. They have a 6 pin plug electrical connector, that go into the 18mmx1.5 bung threads

Add a little dielectric grease in the connectors for this know corrosion failure spot

Not really a sensor - but the pressure tubes going to the transmission get taken off off and no caps are needed on the transmission. These tell the ECU that the DPF is getting clogged up and it’s time to regenerate. That's because as the DPF clogs air/exhaust pressure builds up becuase it can't go through the clogged filter.

Pics of sensors, trans tubes locations, Post #336:

section 8

Exhuast specifics for delete and more
Now that you know all the pieces of the puzzle Here are parts, and DIY

No you can’t just add sims to the stock exhaust because the DPF/oven will get clogged up without being cleaned/regenerated

•You can take out the DPF & NOX guts but then you have to pay a lot to return to stock when you sell the truck

Stainless mufflers are made from Stainless steel grade 419 which will have surface rust, but not all the way through. Use this in high salt environments

Hanger the metal rod that comes off the side of the exhaust tubes that hold it up.

Flopro835 removes the cat (doen pipe), Nox, and DPF (horizontal pipe): Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 DPF Delete/Downpipe Kit (click for price)

Just the horizontal delete pipe no cat delete: Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 Off-Road Pipe (click for price) Call RSD to verify there is a bung port otherwise just go get a $20 53” piece of pipe from a muffler store and have them weld on a bung in five minutes if you don’t have a welder.
Removes Nox and DPF only and keeps Cat thus making it quieter than with a downpipe delete.

Delete Pipe Notes:

A delete pipe is a 4" normal exhaust pipe that takes the place of the Cat down pipe, and/or DPF/NOX horizontal pipe, and/or the muffler.

The DPF/NOX delete pipe is 4" diameter and 53 inches long it's about $20 at a muffler shop, but you need to tap ports or weld bung ports (unless you get a tuner), and add a hanger. Note: You can get a $80 welder at harbor freight and watch youtube to learn how to weld or use muffler clamps.

If you cut in the middle between the three bolt flange located at the bottom of the Cat and the Nox, some guys have just used a exhaust clamp or welded the 53" pipe to the stub. A muffler shop can also weld on the flange and hanger in about 20 to 30 minutes.

Now on to the stuff in the cab

If it will upload See attached Excel 2007 file. I made this to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades for my wife. No pricing for packages are included yet.

Here is a google docs link:

End Page 1

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Page 2

Section 9

Stuff that happens inside the cab
What happens after you delete
Check Engine lights, codes, etc:​

2010 & 2011 trucks are lucky with no CEL, derate, or limp mode from unplugging the EGR.

2012 trucks if you unplug the EGR you will get a CEL and you will eventually derate/ “loose power” in the higher RPMs until it’s fixed. Some people with a 2012 just drive around with the motor derated so in the higher RPMs it’s harder to pass on hills, and at higher speeds etc, but getting up to speed is not an issue. Perhaps this also helps with gas mileage???

Clear derate/codes after plugging the EGR back in:
Some motors in 2012 will clear the derate if your clear the codes = turn on the truck, push the throttle down three times and then turn off the truck. One person reports requiring the dealer to reset the ecm.However some reported limp mode a full major decrease in power which would require ECM reset

After EGR mechanical or digital delete:
People reported 18-21mgs and cleaner/soot-free oil changes.

Three codes can show up:
These codes say that the DPF is too hot thus no fuel is used to heat the exhaust

Those are all "good" codes. You can just clear them with the $20 code reader at the top of the reader list below.

Section 10

Code readers/clearing options
(wired style if you don't have a smart phone)​

Maxi Scan: -
Price $16
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: No
Notes: Many people have used this exact model for the "cheap delete"

Price $158
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: YES
OBDII & CAN: yes
Notes: One guy said he used this

Section 11

Bluetooth and Wifi OBDII AND CAN readers/deleters
To read, monitor, and delete using Torque app, etc apps, with Iphones, Androids, or PCs by reading OBDII & CAN

$22 Bafx (Android Only): Does OBDII & CAN. I already had this from a previous truck. You can't leave it connected more than 24-48 hours or it requires adding a switch- see amazon reviews for fix of the LED draining your battery. I was able to scan and delete errors, I could read a lot of stuff with this such as boost, rpm, speed, temp, etc) =

$27 Veepeak (Iphone & Android): Does CAN & OBDII and has a power button (can’t slowly drain your battery) I'm thinking I want to try this one too:

$20 Foseal: This may work for iphones:

Section 12

Tuners in General

I have to have a tuner to delete the EGR in my 2012, and a tuner is needed for 2013+.
So here is what I have learned so far and best info I have found.​

Note: Due to firewalls in the factory ECM, you will be REQUIRED to first unlock the ECM. At the present time, the only way to do this is using a Bully Dog GT (part number 40420 and the Bully Dog Unlock Cable) -As per PPEI, Or the Ultra tuner.

General features to look for:
On-the-fly: Tuner option can change tunes while driving.
PID list: On-board diagnostics Parameter ID, for adjustments
Custom or mass market tunes
Capability to unlock the ECU
Device comes with tunes for stock or deletes?
How much for custom tune adjustments for tires/MPH, transmission or other upgrades
How much for a new set of tunes if you add racing upgrades to your truck?
What if you Dino later down the road and something doesn't look right? How much?

Full Delete packages: look here after reading below

videos, Autocal vs the V2, CSP5 switch, links​

Note: The more I learn, the more I realize you have three choices for the safest options - an old H&S, Raceme Ultra, or EFI Live device with custom tunes. The one size fits all are not good if you make upgrades and the tunes cannot be changed later, thus the 3 tuners mentioned above. I linked a lot from ATP's site/ info becuase they had an extensive list of videos to get a feel for EFIlive and also had prices for many options as low as $539. I'm sure other tuners will provide similar options as well, so don't forget to ask the site sponsors and active members that are tuners. As always, I will update info, examples, as I receive it especially on lower priced items. There are a lot of threads about tunes made by custom tuners and how they are working in our trucks.

Links to threads where members report their big mileage numbers using custom tunes made by:
1.) put name and link here
2.) put name and link here
3.)put name and link here


Autocal aka Spade, Mercenary, etc device: EFI Live Autocal really does seem like the best all around device that can unlock, run tunes, and data log. You could not run a tune from a different company with this device bc the autocal can only be loaded with tunes made by the original company.

The V2 device will allow you to tweak tunes if you ever want to, and to add tunes from different tuners/companies.

CSP5 switch: For fast on-the-fly switching

EFI explained by Trucktrend - All About EFILive Tuning - Diesel Power Magazine

Lots of vids on EFI -


$539 - Autocal w 1 tune to delete - EFILive AutoCal 06-09 Cummins w/Custom Single Tune - ATPTrucks
$719 - Autocal w 5 tunes - EFILive AutoCal Cummins 2006-2009 5.9L or 6.7L - ATPTrucks
$947 - V2 with 5 tunes - EFILive FlashScan V2 Cummins Tuning by ATPTrucks - ATPTrucks
$65 - CSP5 switch:
EFILive CSP5 Switch 2006-2009 Cummins - ATPTrucks

Companies that make tunes, are tuners

PPEI - 2010 - 2015 6.7L Cummins EFILive Tuning ? PPEI


RaceMe ultra:

I chose this one due to having a pyro monitor capability, future custom tunes later, but also a zero hp and other tunes with transmission tuning out of the box. It was $1900 for Anarchy EFIlive with trans tuning, delete exuast, and egr delete, but later I would need an edge CTS or guages to monitor a pyro. For $2100 for the Ultra package I get a monitor for a future pyro, trans tuning, exhuast, EGR delete kit, and I liked the zero hp increase level.

Details on their website:
For stock transmissions. (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 PU models.

Complete means:
1) Raised line pressure in all Fwd gears AND during the shifts.
2) Increased shift firmness for less slip in the clutches.
3) Changed shift points at WOT in all gears @ 3000 RPM.
4) 6th gear unlock and downshift to avoid the massive torque and make the transmission last longer.
For Aftermarket transmissions (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 PU models.
1) Linepressure 225psi
2) Line pressure rises faster now with altered throttle position value to get the higher pressure before the high torque is entering transmission.
Modern Design with Touch Screen Functionality And Range Of Gauge Monitoring Options
Includes Necessary Hardware For Unlocking 2013+ Which Is Done As Part Of The Program
No Special / Complicated Unlock Procedures Required, Connect Necessary Cables And Install Tune!

Tune Uses Latest High Speed Transfer, Usually Takes 7 Minutes Max!

Monitor Comes With User Defined Layouts/ Dashboard
Memory Supports All Files From 2007 And On
No Reloading / Changing Files Required For Installing On Different Year Models, All Inclusive
Updateable Free via Latest Software Downloads From Our Website
Updatable With Customer Friendly Update Using MicroSD, Simply Load The Update File Onto Card, Reinsert And Update Unit
Disables Entire EGR By Turning Off Without Removing Any Parts ( Hard Part Removal Recommended And Supports Removal Of Entire EGR System Including Valve And Cooler With No Trouble Codes)
Read / Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Disable The DPF/DEF System And ALL Related Sensors – No Sensors Required To Be Plugged In Or Installed In Race Exhaust
(DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter)

(DEF = Diesel Exhaust Fluid. – also referred to as Urea)

Late Injection Events (Post Injection) Is Disabled On All Tunes
Speedometer Recalibration For Use Of Non-Stock size tires
Remove / Adjust Top Speed Limiter
Tune engine HP increases of up to 200HP in 5 stages (NOTE: Power increase maximum differs between model years)
EGT sensor optional accessory to monitor accurately up to 2200 degrees F
Stage 0 has stock power without DEF/DPF/EGR and no options, simply stock for the careful user
End User Customizable Injection Timing For Better Economy And/Or Power
Special ECM Recovery Functions In The Event Of A Programming Sequence Being Disrupted Or Ending With A Fault
· Warning Use the tuner only after removing DPF System Warning

Other Tuners/tunes

2.)$495 SMarty Jr Videos, shared member files, links

Note: only used version can be used to add files and I read the ME can as well.

MADS Electronics Smarty Jr, Dodge (2010-12) 6.7L Cummins

3.) H&S

Tuner knowledge base:

Model: RaceME DPF/EGR Delete Tuner
Price: $899
Preloaded tunes: 4 Are the good, dangerous, just right
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: 4 tunes, 67guzzler switched H&S for this, post ignition, speedo adjust
Cons: ?

Model: RaceME Ultra
Price: $1500
Preloaded tunes: 10
Unlocks ECM: Not hard unlock for '13-'16, not sure about 2010-12
Can add custom tunes later on: "will be capable of utilizing a custom tuning platform"
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Custom, can change tune while driving,
Cons: Cost
RaceME Ultra Update and Upcoming RaceME Custom Tuning:

MADS Smarty Jr
Model: Smarty Jr
Price: $495
Preloaded tunes:4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: No
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:? Only old used ones delete the EGR or DPF. new ones don't
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: simple
Cons: limited, new ones don't delete EGR

Smarty ME
Models known to work
Preloaded tunes:
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:

Bully dog -

There are other kits with stronger fuel pumps too, but my truck is newer so I haven't looked into that much. I do know our 6.7L has an in-the-tank fuel pump and it doesn't fail as much as the older trucks did.

Fass or Airdog Systems

Exlanation animation:

Fass Install but 2004:
Airdog Install 4th gen -


Fuel filter delete -
Section 16


stud lubrication for nuts:

ARP Diesel 2000 series has survived in 800hp trucks, but I wouldn't
200,000 psi 23.1% less psi strength than 625s
ARP 2000 alloy
ARP Diesel Head Stud Kit 247-4202

ARP 625s I you are using the race tunes on your tuner
260,000 psi abour 1/4 stronger thans the 2000s
ARP CA625+
ARP Diesel Custom Age 625+ Head Stud Kit 247-4204

Other less used options:

ARP bolts w 2 stud Main kit
200,000 psi
ARP same 2000 alloy but mostly bolts only 2 studs

A1 Brand H11 Studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
240,000 psi/
H11 alloy
A1 Technologies H-11 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins

A1 brand 1722 studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
215,000 psi/
1722 alloy
A1 Technologies 1722 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins

Thanks goes to Cumins_Diesel_Guy for PMing me some stud data and help

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Page 3

Section 17

I'll be putting my stereo in next week and I'll do a write up

Parts list Side filler trim:

2012 wiring

Ok according to

Your factory radio connector should be gray in color with 22 pins. #1 pin should be top right looking at the pins, and looks to be a bigger pin as well as #12... so something like this:

12 -- - - - - - - - - - - -- 1
22 - - - - - - - - - - 13

1. fused b(+) 14 gauge yl/rd tracer
2. can ihs bus (125k -) 22 wt/or
3-7. unused
8. left rear + 18 gy/lg
9. left rear - 18 gy/dg
10. right rear+ 18 dg/lg
11. right rear- 18 dg/gy
12. ground - 14 bk/or
13. can bus (125k +) 22 wt/gy
14-18 unused
19. right front+ 18 dg/vt
20. right front- 18 dg/yl
21. left front+ 18 gy/vt
22. left front- 18 gy/yl

Harness connector:

Note this harness has a red seperate power wire in becuase the trucks' connector doesn't have power. I tapped into the driver side cigarette outlet. This outlet has "stay on fucntion" when you take your key out, this way you cant listen to the radio until you open the car door, and it's easy to get to.

Note: DO NOT USE AN INLINE SPLICE CONNECTOR. They are illegal in Canada for a reason! so don't do it in the US, it can cause a fire. The next section is how an alarm/stereo install guy taught me if you don't want to solder in your car, and works great on boats too - where solder joints can break from all the vibration and slamming.

The safe way to add a inline splice/pigtail
Take a razor blade and lightly cut around the wire so a ring is cut around it, an inch or less away do the same,
lightly slice down the center of the wire from one ring you cut to the other
bend the wire and the plastic covering will break/tear open
Now you can peel it off.
Thread the copper of your pigtain into one end of the wires you just exposed on the truck
Twist the pigtail wires around the exposed wires to the other end
Twist the pigtail around the opposite direction to get a tight 1 inch connection.
Wrap it with electrical tape atleast 2 to 3 times
Now the trick that makes it safe use small/smallest zipties to clamp the electrical tape down for a safe and solid connection. Place them all along the 1" area (the exposed wire)
It's a safe and solid connection.
Also you can put liquid electrical tape over everything until it is all sealed up and a solid piece. Let a big glob dry on a paper plate a bit, this will allow you to apply it thicker & faster
You can solder also if you want, but it's inside your truck and solder can drip and melt things. Add the female spade connector on you pigtail end to connect to the red wiring harness's male spade connector. I like to add heat shrink from the spade/connectors to the wire too.

Antennae connector:

Stereo wiring harness:
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter

If you buy the steering wheel connector from Crutchfield they will provide your with a wiring schematics and help if you need to call in. I had trouble in my old truck finding the stock subwoofer wires and they helped by sending me an email with the wiring diagram/colors when all I bought was the steering wheel connector.

Section 18


Is there something better after deleting the DPF and/or EGR?
Diesel vs Normal car oil? I have Seen Blue, CJ-4 & CI-4, and T6 mentioned a lot, what is that?
What is API
Hot climate vs Cold climate and how diesel is affected

Sams Club has Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 bought
Costco has DELO 490 LE, Chevron Delo 400 15W40, or Mobil Delvac 15W40

Petroleum Quality Institute of America
Longhorm2500 says - to look at the PQIA link above - Delo 400LE, has the strongest additive pack I've seen and can be had for around $13 a gallon or less at Walmart.

Many use Valvoline Premium Blue 15/40

Price API Performance Category
$/gal. Oil # Brand/Description My Estimate Actual
9.98 1 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
17.36 8 Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
21.89 12 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue Syn. 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.98 13 Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
10.88 14 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
35.00 20 Red Line Diesel Synthetic 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4
10.36 2 NAPA Universal Fleet Plus 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
25.70 10 Amsoil 5W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
13.51 15 Caterpillar DEO 15W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
12.68 16 John Deere Plus-50 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
19.99 18 Lucas 15/40 Magnum 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.68 3 Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
7.68 5 Wal Mart Super Tech Universal 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 6 Castrol GTX Diesel 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 7 Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.99 19 Pilot Premium HD 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
12.00 21 LiquiMoly Diesel Special 15W40 CI-4 CF-4
Ho-Hum (least favorite)
10.96 4 Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
27.55 9 Amsoil Premium Synthetic 5W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
10.80 11 Castrol Tection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
12.99 17 Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4

Section 19

OIL filters
Baldwin - BT7349
Fleetguard - LF16035 - LF3972
Fram - XG3976A - TG3976A - PH3976A FACTORY FUEL FILTER FRAM - FCS10726 or PS10279 Only available from the dealer currently. Dealer P/N is 68065608AA

FACTORY AIR FILTER FRAM - CA10261 Baldwin - PA4318


Cabin Air Filter 2010 Avenger Mopar - 05058693AA

SEVERE DUTY FILTERS Filter head - 3930618-S

Water separator Fleetguard filter - FS1212 or Baldwin - BF1212 2 Micron Filter CAT fuel filter - IR-0750

Donaldson Muffler 5" Critical Quiet M100580

Section 20

EGR valve and cooler cleaning

Note about cleaner vs Mopar EGR cleaner - Some people used purple power degreeser/cleaner and that worked great for me. I was worried about any water content in the cleaner and so I make sure it was dried well after.

This Guy is great he has a lot of diesel videos especially for sensors:

This back yard test performed by trucktrend shows Purple Power "PP" the winner after a 2 hr soak. PP beat out Simple Green, Mopar EGR Cleaner, and others.We bench-test diesel EGR Cooler cleaning solutions

Section 21

Manual 4x4 Transfer Case shift lever rod/linkage:

My Take on the project:
Ace Hardware has a lot of stainless in my area near the beach and I found a great turnbuckle for this project. I upgraded the size and added and internal spacer to prevent metal on metal vibration, here is the quick write up to supplement the next link

See the first post by pirefyro:
Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you. -

Stainless turnbuckle [/url]
Cheaper version - same concep

316 stainless turnbuckle, have 1000lbs+ of strength, and never rust. FYI - 304 stainless will surface rust, also some stainless turnbuckles use aluminum turnbuchles in the middle. Full 316stainless for under $30 from -

Awesome Turbo Thread with pics, parts replacement links and more:

The hardest nut/bolts were the 15mm nuts on the exhuast side of the turbo. I used my torch and pb blaster bc it's what I had. I think I read CRC brand has better capillary draw (I'll update the name if I get a chance to find it. Make sure you have a couple extensions, pipe for leverage, breaker bar, coolant etc.

Drive around then do an oil change encase any chemicals made it into the oil circulatory portion of the turbo.

Aftermarket turbo comparison:
Which Turbo Is Best For You - Upgrading Your Diesels Turbocharger - Diesel Power Magazine

$1100 Magnum aftermarket stock turbo from ADS with actuator - for the price of an actuator:
ADS 6.7L HE351VE Turbocharger 70-4012

Turbo wrench/special tool Mopar 9866A. You can add a breaker bar instead of using a pipe over a wrench:
Section 23

Cool video playlist of some cool mods and explanations and why
More to come later on basic info about mods

Top 10 Mods videos playlist -

Section 24

Cold Air Intakes
Videos, Why, How, Links​

You will also probably see that the stock intake hose clamps break due to rust.

For just $99 - If you want to save $275 to $375 right away. If your truck doesn't have a channel from your box down to your wheel well (Chevy trucks do) I haven't checked my Cummins, then go get some sheet aluminum at the scrap yard, and rivet together a channel that goes down from our stock intake box port down to connect to the S&B Ram like seen in the S&B video below. 316 Stainless sheet and bolts with locking nuts would give you the best corrosion free setup in salty road areas. I've never used stainless rivets. The filter will catch corrosion though and you can always add new bigger rivets later as well.
Ram scoop connected to the down spout/channel through the stock wheelwell port

S&B is the best bang for buck:
1.) With roughly the same increases in air flow, the S&B intake is $100 less than others, and $35 to $50 less for the ram.
2.)S&B claims 40% more air flow with the box plug box and almost 49.1% without the box plug
3.)Independent dyno testing by Thoroughbred diesel got 10% hp increase w/out plug on Cummins
4.)Independent dyno testing by ATP got 25% hp increase on a duramax
Their videos with results mentioned:,+Thouroghbred+diesel

S&B $275
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.1% dry and 47.8% oiled
Intake: S&B 10-12 Dodge Cummins 6.7L Air Intake
Ram Part # AS-1002: $99 - Can upgrade later, on same webpage page
Item Video:
Install Video:

aFe $375
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.27%
Intake: '10 - '12 part # 54-82034
Ram: No ram available
Item Video:
Install Video: similar to S&B

Banks $385:
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 57% w ram
Intake: '10- '12 is Part #: 42180 Banks Oiled Ram Air Intake System
Ram: $130 to $150 for model years 2009 or lower
Item Video:
Install Video:
Ram under the hood behind the wheel well
Section 24
for future use

Section 26

Tips and tricks to posting on the forum

To get rid of big Amazon links that show up like and blank image - Go to the item, click on the reviews next to the star rating, You will still be on the main page, so now click on the number next to the Stars. It will then take you to a seperate link/window apart from the item listing that you can post so that it looks like this Notice the links always say "helpful" at the end, this is how you know it's what your are going for

instead of this (which is just the normal link to the item, but shows up weird in this forum and can screw up your post style

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Whats going on with the giant Amazon links in this forum, I can't get rid of it and they are like that in threads all over.

Wow. This is quite a summary!
Yeah, I hope this helps people. I found a lot of tuner info today. I'm still not sure about ones that unlock the ecm because a lot don't advertise that.

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update: Well, after all the research - EFI Live with it's options for custom tunes seems to be one of the cheapest ways to unlock the ecu and delete 2012 trucks that require a tuner to do so. It's $539 for an EFILive Autocal with a single tune at ATP. It also seems to be a lot safer than the mass market tunes on some tuners that can not be changed, thus do not have tunes that take into consideration the upgrades you have made to your rig. Cheap units are not always cheaper, especially if you need to unlock the ECM with another device such as the bullydog.

I'm really liking my BAFX bluetooth OBDII tool with the Torque app and my phone or tablet. You can see a lot of live system information. The GPS speed is great if you changed your tire size, but have not updated the ECM yet.

I've added a lot to 3 pages of the thread, check them out.

Original post:
Well after all the research EFI Live with custom tunes seams to be the safest way to unkock the ecu, delete ( if a runer is required) and tune a truck. If you add on saving the need to unlock an ecu w a bullydog then cheaper units aren't so cheap. You can use a bkuetooth OBDIIbdevice to get sustem monitoring. I've added a lot to the 3 pages of the thread check them out

7,102 Posts
There is a lot of opinionated and miss information listed also along with confusion. Seems like a bit of a ramble. You meant well but ......the cut and paste with assumptions killed it for me.

You also need to proof read your work.

7,102 Posts
Well after all the research EFI Live with custom tunes seams to be the safest way to unkock the ecu, delete ( if a runer is required) and tune a truck. If you add on saving the need to unlock an ecu w a bullydog then cheaper units aren't so cheap. You can use a bkuetooth OBDIIbdevice to get sustem monitoring. I've added a lot to the 3 pages of the thread check them out
A great example right here. What are you trying to say. Very confusing and full of misinformation.

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
A great example right here. What are you trying to say. Very confusing and full of misinformation.
It's a work in progress, that info was added today on my cell before we went out for dinner. Some information is added from my cell and later edited because the mobile site is limited; it will get there. I also try to give basic examples that your friends and family can relate to.

As mentioned above, I thanked Cumins_Diesel_Guy for his PM with more accurate info on Studs - I thought A1 Brand H11 studs were actually H11 Brand studs and had some data and parts numbers interchanged. I encourage anyone to PM me any better examples or changes they think need to be made so that it doesn't detract from the actual goal of the thread. Which is, to provide summarized information for new members to learn about Cummins/ diesel, common modifications, using layman examples. I highly encourage people to PM me or post threads/ information that you think newbies should know and I'll add it to the Table of contents and make a section.

This is what I meant to say as I waited for my wife to get ready, but then had to get going:

Well, after all the research - EFI Live with it's options for custom tunes seams to be one of the cheapest ways to unlock the ECM and delete 2012 trucks that require a tuner to do so. It's $539 for an EFILive Autocal with a single tune at ATP. It also seems to be a lot safer than the mass market tunes on some tuners that can not be changed, thus do not have tunes that take into consideration the upgrades you have made to your rig. Cheap units are not always cheaper, especially if you need to unlock the ECM with another device such as the bullydog.

I'm really liking my BAFX bluetooth OBDII tool with the Torque app on my phone or tablet. You can see a lot of live system information. The GPS speed is great if you changed your tire size, but have not updated the ECM yet.

I've added a lot to the 3 pages of the thread, check it out.

5,146 Posts
There is a lot of opinionated and miss information listed also along with confusion. Seems like a bit of a ramble. You meant well but ......the cut and paste with assumptions killed it for me.

You also need to proof read your work.
Ah found someone else like me. Full on tard when it comes to sentence structure....

220 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ah found someone else like me. Full on tard when it comes to sentence structure....
I usually try to take a little time off :chillpill: after gathering/reading all day and come back and edit with a fresher brain :cleanup2:

There are so many threads to read

Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
5,825 Posts
Nice write up! i'm tagging this for what will hopefully become the 4th gen tech section, as the tech area of the site is currently under review and will be rebuilt a bit. This has loads of info and can save someone ALOT of time reading and researching. Next time i'd appreciate it if you do it before i spend the same amount of time researching these same subject so i can just look through the recap of it. lol Nice job man

7,102 Posts

7,102 Posts
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