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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was told I should post this here instead of General Discussion.

I know this will blow up and I will catch hell from this but here we go….
Before I start let me just say I am not bashing any manufacture or trying to claim to be an expert, this is just simply my opinion base on the lessons I have learned while building my 3rd gen Cummins. I set out to build at least a 500hp daily driver and during which time ended up spending over 14k in a two month period buying a lot of parts simply because one thing led to another, or I just simply did not know any better. I spent hours and hours researching the parts I bought and going through post on forums, and talking with manufactures before I ended up with what is now a powerful, reliable beast. There are tons of super smart guys on these forums that are more than welcomed to way in, but just keep in mind this is completely based on my experience and I am just trying to help the new guys get a direction on which way to go the right way without blowing the bank and re-living my lessons.

Everything I list is in priority of buy (i.e. 1=buy first, 2=buy second)
1. Gauges-Sorry no HP gains here, but this option could mean the difference between replacing an engine or other expensive upgrades latter. At a minimum you need to have a pyrometer (EGT gauge), Boost gauge, rail pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, and nice to haves would be Trans temp, and fuel pressure. I selected my Edge CTS because it had all these gauges built in except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges.

2. Lift pump up grade with good filters- Good for MPG’s and small HP gain, I selected the Air Dog DF165 simply because of the design and the flow allowed me room to grow with injector/nozzles. While doing this install if you are mounting to the frame place some type of rubber material between frame and mounting brackets because these things can be loud at times and the rubber will help cut down on the noise.


3. Cold Air Intake- This will help feed the engine the necessary air and increase MPG, I selected the AFE stage II with pro guard filter, great design and the filter is cleanable.

4. Exhaust- This upgrade will increase MPG’s, HP and lower EGT’s, here you have two choices, Turbo back (from the turbo back) or CAT back ( from the catalytic converter back)Size is pretty much your choice but 4in is good enough for pretty much anything until you get way up there in HP’s. I selected PMT 5in stainless turbo back exhaust with the muffler, compare the flow of all manufactures and there isn’t that much difference for the difference in price.

5. Transmission-The stock auto trans/ or manual clutch is just not built for much more than stock hp’s so if the moneys there invest some of it here. I rebuilt my own tranny with the G2 kit, Valve Body, Triple Disc converter, and billet input shaft from Goerend Transmission, super great techs who tell you what you need rather than what they want to sell you. If buying a complete Trans then spend the extra money now rather than later but don’t be fooled by the hype over billet parts, If you plan on building your own look at these upgrades:

a. Billet Components- Input should be a must, billet output is only needed if you plan on doing boosted launches, intermediate shaft I personally saw no real need for this to be a billet shaft at all unless you plan to do a lot of sled pulling.
b. Extra clutches-No real need as they can cause more problems than anything because to add the extra clutches you need to go thinner on other components.
c. Multi disc Converter- Consider this a must have, billet even better!
d. Rebuild components-Go with a good kit that includes the upgrade servo pistons, bearings, and good clutches like Raybestos, all seals
e. Flywheel- good to have but not really needed unless your wanting massive HP’s for dragging or sled pulling, but the G2 kit comes with a flywheel stiffener that helps a lot.
f. Good shift kit or VB- Trans Go makes a good shift kit, and Goerend makes an excellent VB to match your needs not a one size fits all.
g. Trans Cooler- Consider this a must, why spend all that money just to throw it away, heat will kill that new tranny faster than anything.

6. Injection Pump Cp3- There are tons of views out there, if you spend the money on a dual Cp3 pump setup now you will just save yourself money later as you grow, and dual stock CP3’s are all you need unless you are trying to go over 1000hp and I think they will still hold up. If not look into a modified CP3, and last choice should be the Bag of parts MODS (not saying they don’t work) but my experience is $390 went into the trash can. Just keep in mind if you ever want to grow in power eventually you’re going to end up with duals better to bite the bullet and do it right the first time. I choose the ATS Dual CP3 simply because of the tons of reviews and conversations I read or heard.

7. Programmer-Ok I know there are tons of people out there that would buy this first as I did, but they are pretty much useless without completing 1-6 first, as they old saying goes “you can put lipstick on a pig, but it still a pig”, I went with the Edge Attitude CTS simply because of the built in gauges, It is a great tuner for the beginner or someone who is going to be happy with about 550hp. I am now moving onto the EFlive as it allows you to do so much more, there are tons to choose from but for a beginner you can’t beat the Edge tuning and gauges all in one package.

From this point you can build on with injectors/nozzles, turbo’s, cam, etc because everything before this point will support what you do from here on out within reason and your wallet will be the only thing stopping you . Another big lesson is most of the manufactures out there other than a select few seem to think that no matter how much money you spend on a part they do not need to include the instructions to install it (I am sorry but given the money I have spent on some of these parts it should come with instructions) so ask for them when you order the part. Last but not least there are tons of manufactures and smart guys out there and on these forums that are more than will to give you great advice, but there are also tons that have no clue or just want to empty your wallet regardless if you needed it or not, research, research, research!
:doh::banghead:
 

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Good info thanks
 

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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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a spool aid is a kit that supplies piping and fittings to deliver air into either end of your head...there are frost plug type deals at #1 and #6 on your head and since those are the hotest cylinders it helps keep them in check....and also allows more air into the head thus aiding in the spooling of the turbo!
 

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a spool aid is a kit that supplies pipi
PHP:
ng and fittings to deliver air into either end of your head...there are frost plug type deals at #1 and #6 on your head and since those are the hotest cylinders it helps keep them in check....and also allows more air into the head thus aiding in the spooling of the turbo!

What he said ^^^^^
 

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i only know that because i was thinking about getting a spool aid for my new 63/68 but it spools so quick and my egts are way within reason......so i said nvm haha
 

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Who you goin through to get efi? Are you tuning yourself?
 

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I was asking Saintb69 orginally, but open to all suggestions
 

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Good info, should stop five post a day... Would like to know how you got to 14k doing that tho.... There was not even a i tried and i didnt work besides the bop's.
 
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I would like to point out that the intake and exhaust will not get you any mileage increase and will only give you maybe 15-20hp. Many dynos tests have been done and most showed that the stock intake housing with drop in filter is the best. As far as the exhaust stock is fine until your at 500+hp but I usually put on 4" tb just because it has a nicer sound than stock.
 

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Thanks for the info, gonna follow this thread since Im a relitive newbie and your info has helped a lot.
 

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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good info, should stop five post a day... Would like to know how you got to 14k doing that tho.... There was not even a i tried and i didnt work besides the bop's.
Let's see
ARP studs 495.00
Flex lite fan 579.00
Power control unit 695.00
Injectors 3300.00
Tans total 3400.00
Turbo 1972.00
Edge tuner 1000.00
AFE stage II 390.00
Exhaust 400.00
Intake 395.00
Lift kit 1200
Tires and rims 2000
Cp3 pump 795.00
ATS dual cp3 kit 2745.00
Ok I think that's enough for now so add that up and see what you get!
 

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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would like to point out that the intake and exhaust will not get you any mileage increase and will only give you maybe 15-20hp. Many dynos tests have been done and most showed that the stock intake housing with drop in filter is the best. As far as the exhaust stock is fine until your at 500+hp but I usually put on 4" tb just because it has a nicer sound than stock.
I have to agree with you on this as I have really seen nothing out of the intake that amounts to anything for the price.
 

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Not sure yet, still doing some research!

Gotcha, Wish there was a good shop round the area that handles this, only thing I could think of is callin up a place and passing data logs back n forth..been keepin an eye on some of the beta testers, jus haven't called any
 

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Purple Heart Veteren
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Gotcha, Wish there was a good shop round the area that handles this, only thing I could think of is callin up a place and passing data logs back n forth..been keepin an eye on some of the beta testers, jus haven't called any
I have not found any one around my area that does it, heck it's hard enough to find anyone that knows anything about our CR 5.9s, I have run similar tuners on gasers, but I'm still in the learning phase on diesels. I been a certified ASE wrench turner for over almost 30 years but diesels are new to me.
 

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I guess i read it as in it was 14k spent to get to 500hp.
 

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Who you goin through to get efi? Are you tuning yourself?
If your are looking for somebody to tune, I used Erick Brown of Brown's Diesel. I just do some data logging and then send him the log. Then he sends me the tune. It's not the best but when you don't live anywhere close to somebody who tunes/has a dyno, then thats all you can get.
 

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Good write up, the only thing I would have to disagree with is the flywheel, I just broke my stock flywheel and ill be lucky to break 500hp. If ur upgrading the trans with billet shafts and a torque converter you might as well upgrade ur flywheel. Im not sayin buy a billet one but a lamintaed one would be just fine, or do what im doing is I bought a stock one and a weldable insert from goerends. Just my $.02, and like you said this is just lessons learned. The only other I can add is to build your truck for what youre going to be doing with it I.e. towing, racing, sledpulling, dailydriving, but leave yourself some room to grow, because you never know what you wanna do a few years from now.
 
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