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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! Never thought i'd be a cummins owner, but here I am!

Picking up a '93 2wd first gen on Saturday, 283,000 miles on the clock, and a completely rebuilt transmission as of 5000 miles ago. New converter, new clutches, whole nine yards.

My question is an easy one, being a Cummins newbie. I know a ton about Duramaxe's but I don't know chit about Cummins.... but I shall learn!

When I go to pick this truck up, besides the obvious front end problems that I know will be there.... what should I look for? Where are easy to see weak links - things that would break the deal?

I'm getting it for 2k cash.
 

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Hey everyone! Never thought i'd be a cummins owner, but here I am!

Picking up a '93 2wd first gen on Saturday, 283,000 miles on the clock, and a completely rebuilt transmission as of 5000 miles ago. New converter, new clutches, whole nine yards.

My question is an easy one, being a Cummins newbie. I know a ton about Duramaxe's but I don't know chit about Cummins.... but I shall learn!

When I go to pick this truck up, besides the obvious front end problems that I know will be there.... what should I look for? Where are easy to see weak links - things that would break the deal?

I'm getting it for 2k cash.
make sure that odometer works thats a bad problem with these trucks. because thats pretty high mile for it to still be working.......but im not saying it deosnt work. cause some do but keep your eye out
 

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Look underneath for rust. Also just see if the pump has been "turned up" then just the basics just make sure theres nothing "odd"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
make sure that odometer works thats a bad problem with these trucks. because thats pretty high mile for it to still be working.......but im not saying it deosnt work. cause some do but keep your eye out
I'll be sure to drive it around and check that it works, but I have always been under the impression that the 12v cummins was fairly indestructible... I've heard of well maintained engines clearing 1 million miles in some cases?

And yeah... I need to look up the stuff about the pumps being turned up. I know where the IP is, just never saw the difference between a stock on and one thats been turned up... i'm sure theres pics and stuff on here though.
 

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ill try get some pics of mine but a real good give away is theres a cap on top that covers the smoke screw if thats gone chances is its been messed with. I wouldnt go away from it if its been "turned" up just be more careful ask more questions. Also see if it has boost and pyro gauges, just ask the guy see if anything doesn't seem right, usually you can feel a guy out by his response or whats done if you notice something isnt right and he doesn't have a answer for you walk from it. But for the most part these trucks are "tough" and it should be fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome advice... I just read up on those IP's. Man they are simple! I'm going to fall in love with these engines...

The dude selling it to me is old, sort of the "Hank Hill" type. But... ratchet straps keep the doors closed, busted latches. Lots of dents, etc. But the dude insists he kept up with maintenance and has like a book of receipts.

Usually big cosmetic problems are a symptom of people who give even less of a damn about whats going on in the engine compartment... but we shall see.

And for 2k, I think I'm okay. I'll probably invest another grand fixing odds and ends... and probably either fall in love with it or sell it off. Big demand for these engines!
 

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ya exactly when i didnt know much about these trucks i paid $3800 for mine and the inside of my rockers are rusted and my floor pan is rusted but at least the engine was good, for the most part there always good
 

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Awesome advice... I just read up on those IP's. Man they are simple! I'm going to fall in love with these engines...

The dude selling it to me is old, sort of the "Hank Hill" type. But... ratchet straps keep the doors closed, busted latches. Lots of dents, etc. But the dude insists he kept up with maintenance and has like a book of receipts.

Usually big cosmetic problems are a symptom of people who give even less of a damn about whats going on in the engine compartment... but we shall see.

And for 2k, I think I'm okay. I'll probably invest another grand fixing odds and ends... and probably either fall in love with it or sell it off. Big demand for these engines!

also yes for our engine all you need is some wrenches and screw drivers and everything plain and simple
 

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Awesome advice... I just read up on those IP's. Man they are simple! I'm going to fall in love with these engines...

The dude selling it to me is old, sort of the "Hank Hill" type. But... ratchet straps keep the doors closed, busted latches. Lots of dents, etc. But the dude insists he kept up with maintenance and has like a book of receipts.

Usually big cosmetic problems are a symptom of people who give even less of a damn about whats going on in the engine compartment... but we shall see.

And for 2k, I think I'm okay. I'll probably invest another grand fixing odds and ends... and probably either fall in love with it or sell it off. Big demand for these engines!
I also bought my first gen from a hank hill older gentleman for $2000, who wasnt as smart as i thought. But when i heard about the truck i went in to the deal saying theres 135k on the clock and the motor's worth $1500 regardless, that was before i knew it had a new starter, IP, lift pump, and power steering pump. With parting out/scrapping the rest of the truck i would still make a few bucks. You could look at it like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yup thats how i'm looking at it. If I had to to, I could pull the engine, crate it, sell it as "unknown miles"... drop the trans, crate it, sell it as new pretty much...

Then sell whatever body panels are in good shape... i know the grill is flawless... and flawless grills turn a dime on these apparently.

Sell rear axle, then take whatever can't be used in the aftermarket and scrap it.

But realistically, i'll probably drive it a ton, put weekend insurance on the expensive as hell duramax - and if I ever get tired of it, i'll sell it in better condition then when I bought it, and get my 2k or more on the back end.
 

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Uh that cap over the smoke screw can be put back on if you don't destroy it like me.
 

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Uh that cap over the smoke screw can be put back on if you don't destroy it like me.
I know but most dont put them back and thats a easy give away
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the pictures! thats what my ip should look like - as I understand, the manual trans trucks have 4 flathead bolts on the top of the IP. The auto's have 3 alans, and 1 flathead. That IP will be the first thing I check... for leaks... for being turned up... etc.

New question for yall - on some diesels, blow by does not indicate a significant problem. But i've heard if theres tons of blow by on a cummins... the motor is in real bad shape or shot.

So, is this all true concerning blow by? Is it a deal breaker?

I remember when I bought my Dmax with 65,000 on it, and even it had a bit of blow by...

So, how much blow by is too much? with nearly 300,000 miles on it, I expect that oil filler cap to be pumping out smoke like a freight train!

Thank you all for your advice, so far and in advance.
 

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you'd need to drive it and get it up to operating
temp, then park it, keep it running, and take
the oil fill cap off. if you can visibly see smoke,
it may be too much blowby.

the manual trucks do not have the throttle position
sensor on top of the pump, so thats what you'll
see different. the pic above does have the tps
attached. otherwise, look for the cap on top of
the afc, and the collar around the power screw.
 

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With engines of all kinds modern lubricants, if kept clean and fresh, will keep the wear down so low that freakish mileage can be expected. Dirty oil and dirty filters bypassing said oil will wear anything out fast.

If the engine was well maintained, it should still be pretty good at 300K.

I have a Chevy 4.3 gasser in the back yard with 328K on it. Truck collapsed in a heap of rust, but the engine doesn't even rattle a little at start up yet.
 
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