On a recent trip across country my injection pump failed. Being stuck in the middle of nowhere Nevada I ended up having to pay a shop $3600 to replace both pumps. It took them 15hr to do the job, 8 more than I was quoted. Basicly I got screwed.The truck revs better than it did, but now it has very low power. I have to down shift to 4th gear for hills. The timing is on according to the pins. I do not have the tools to check with a dial indicator. How much could the timing be off just using the pins? When the injection pump goes out could it clog up the injectors?
new pumps, no power
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If your psi isn't up to spec it can be a bad overflow valve, lift pump, plugged filter or kinked fuel line.
It's better if you can check the FP under load while driving. Sometimes sitting still doesn't show low pressure.
Some folks who don't want to install a permanent gauge just tuck it under the wiper.
Another very easy way to check FP is to use your boost gauge as long as it is at least 40 psi.
It's better if you can check the FP under load while driving. Sometimes sitting still doesn't show low pressure.
Some folks who don't want to install a permanent gauge just tuck it under the wiper.
Another very easy way to check FP is to use your boost gauge as long as it is at least 40 psi.
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sounds like air in the fuel...try removing your fuel heaterthere an article in the tech threads on how to go about it when u unplug the heater look at the connector for wetness it should b bone dry and the rubber should be firm not bloutted from fuel
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replaced both pumps as in injection pump and lift pump?
Yes, both pumps. No signs of leaks. 1/8 valve comes in tomorrow to check fuel pressure. New hose going to fuel heater. I had plans on removing the heater This shop really messed things up. I couldn't adjust the pump timing if I wanted to they left broken bolts in the injection pump gear.(well I guess I could tear down the whole front end and use a big 3 jaw puller).
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If they left broken bolts in the pump gear I would be throwing a fit with the shop. Thats not safe. Id make them take it apart and pull the bolts out of the gear.
the shop in Nevada I'm North Carolina right now, and I live in Cali. besides I'd never let them touch my truck again. I've been trying to work it out with the shop but they won't listen to me(I guess they will have to listen to the BBB or my lawyer). I have many problems with their "work".
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Yeah, I probably wouldnt let them touch mine either. Sucks that you are clear accross the country.
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it scarey how many shops say they know diesels...i never heard of any shops u can trust ...dont even know if u could trust a factory cummins shop...fukin shoe makers...thats why this site is great..everyone knows a lil something and if ur not afraid of getting ur hands dirty ...90% of the probs are a easy fix
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This is a long shot, but also make sure that your fuel-shutoff solenoid is engaigng and disengaging correctly. If the linkage binds for anyreason, this could prevent the fuel-shutoff valve from opening completely, which will reduce the amount of fuel supplied to the IP. This happened to me. No power, truck started fine. Turned out ,the shaft on my fuel-shutoff solenoid was bent.
Just a thought, does not hurt to cover all bases. Good luck, hope you get it going soon...I know what it is like to be stranded!
Just a thought, does not hurt to cover all bases. Good luck, hope you get it going soon...I know what it is like to be stranded!
Well, I think I found the problem. Before going to Grainger to pick up a 1/8 needle valve to check fuel pressure, I removed the fuel heater. Found fuel in the plug. It runs much better then it did, but not as good as before the pump went out. Slight miss at 2100 rpm and up. If the fuel pressure checks out fine am I looking at injectors to fix the miss? thanks to illflem, joe g and ykdave.
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1,067 Posts
the afc cover is the whole housing that you have to remove to get to the fuel plate
Got the fuel pressure gauge hooked up got 0psi @ idle, 20psi @ 2100rpm. Decided to check out the over flow valve, guess what the thing was empty! No spring, no ball, just a little washer. I bet the "repair shop" I took it to lost them. I also had to replace the washers one the supply and at the ofc valve. old ones were shot!
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