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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,
Before i start with the questions i'll give up some background.

In early november i picked up a 01 24v with 119,000 from my cousins father in law. At 98,000 he took it back to the dealership he bought it from and had them replace the fuel pump since it was still under warranty. other than that everything is completely original.

I've been looking to start building up the HP and torque. I'm not going to aim for 1000 hp for a few years but i'm lookin to start out in the 300's range but i have no idea where exactly i should start.

And also if switching over to Amsoil is worth the cost? My dad did it on his 99 and he thought it was great.

i looked on the forum but i didnt see any threads or stickys about this so i figured i'd ask. If there is one feel free to point me in the right direction!

thanks!
 

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If you have read the stickies then you will know this... FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE IS #1!!
Start out with a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. A factory replacement lift pump does not provide adequate fuel pressure for stock HP levels, so you will end up needing a lift pump asap. I recommend the Fass 150 with dual filters. They are reliable and have great customer service. From there you will need a set of gauges - Pyrometer and Boost. Those can be separate on the pillar, or you can get something like and edge juice with attitude which has Built in gauges and is a chip all in one. If you go with the gauges on the pillar (I recommend) then you can get something like and edge comp, TST powermax, or other programmer/chip to increase power. Any wiretap box should give you right around the 300hp range. Remember though you may end up needing a clutch due to the extra power.

Read here about requirements to keep the VP44 healthy: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2n...-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps
http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2n...em/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements
Welcome to the forum and ask away!
 
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2006 F250 SD,4x4
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Welcome I'll make a list of needed upgrades before searching for horsepower.

1. Gauges (fuel pressure first)
2. Lift pump (fass)
3. Reg. Maint. Change every fluid and filter
4. Programmer(many different brands you can search which will best suit you)
5. Exhaustkpick your poison)

That's a good start there. Search the forum and Google you can learn a lot.

I also have an 01 six speed :thumbup:
 

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the others have hit most...

i completely agree, fuel pressure gauge needs to be the first thing. then egt, and finally boost.

being its a 6 speed that should make it an ho truck, 245 hp, and also that it has the hx35 turbo, great turbo for about 400 horse.

once you pick your choice in gauges, fuel pump is mandatory. NO MATTER WHAT DO NOT BUY A NEW AIRDOG. they are junk, ask me how i know.... if you are planing for the stars go with the fass titanium 150 lift pump.

air filters tend to be the next mod guys make, cold air kits do nothing significant to add hp, and the K&N type cotton material reusable filters are no good for the cummins, DO NOT use them. if you want a great cheap, great air filter look up BHAF. CPPDiesel.com, Jamie Lent, has them for about 60 dollars shipped to your door.

exhaust, pick your flavor.... personally prefrence here mostly... most say 5" isnt required until over about 650 horse. Stacks may look cool to you, but they make the worst god aweful drone in the cab for a daily driver, and i do not recommend them.

clutch, if you are shooting for 1000 hp down the road, i would go with a south bend or valair dual disk. i run the southbend, sbc-3850-6 is the summit p/n IIRC. i love it, great feel, always there, never slipped. i would not go with another stock or single disc clutch. you will need it eventually.

chips-

there are 3 main types, downloaders, non wire tap, and wiretap. down loaders typically are limited to 65 horsepower. non wire tap are also limited to 65 horsepower.

the wiretap are capable of power in ecess of 100+ depending on the setting and brand choosen.

DO NOT get sucked into the hype of i need to have its. you do not need a different exhaust manifold unless yours cracks, or are over about 500 horsepower.

you do not need bigger intercooler tubes, or a bigger inter cooler until you are pushing over 50 psi boost consistantly. and you do not need a intake elbow, the stock one will support builds over 500 hp.

this leaves the turbo and injectors. turbos are tricky and depend mostly on your goals and needs. big turbos need BIG injectors. and vice versa.

exterior mods-

BIG LIFTS AND TIRES KILL MILEAGE. anything that increases frontal area of the truck kills mileage. youve been told.

anything else ask. there are a LOT of knowledgable guys here and most will help whenever they can.
 

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Mopar1973Man.Com
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Make up your mind now are you looking for a efficiency daily driver or a weekend track warrior? Because you can't have both. If you looking for efficiency then you need to consider what you doing now. Do you study work on drag keeping you profile low. Then go mild on the injectors but use a good wire tap box like Edge Products to control fuel.

You might click on my 02 signature link and take a peek at my mods.

The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration
 

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1000 hp? The insanity... Prepare to spend a bunch of money!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1000 hp? The insanity... Prepare to spend a bunch of money!
haha i know. Thats why i said years from now. For now i'm aiming my sights down the scale towards 300. I tow often and i could use the extra power
 

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Only reason I am considering amsoil is to do extended drain intervals.... Otherwise imho your right changing at the factory specs isn't worth the added costs.....
Just like Dorkweed over my side of the fence did extended drain interval on WalMart SuperTech Oil 15w-40 and made 84k miles on a single oil change. Blackstone tested his oil every 7k miles and kept going.

The other I tend to use in my hotshot owner. He's gone 1.3 Million miles on Chevron Delo 15w-40 and fleetguard filters with oil changes every 20k miles.

You can do extended drain intervals with petroleum too.
 

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Mike, I don't want to go off topic again about oil..... I know and respect your oppinion, but I have seen the differences with synthetics verses regular oil. And to me I want the best oil I can especially if I am going away from the recommended service intervals. Just seems smarter.... Idk why... But this is why I've always said, to each their own, I will use and modify my truck to suit my needs, I ask advise, but ultimately what gets bolted on is my choice. And I will give advise to others on the forum, and if they decide that it is relate to and sound, and use it, that is their prerogative.

I only know what I have seen. And I agree that when at temps the oil is rated at, both regular and syn should flow the same, however in between those two temps they act completely different. Again, I am talking about pour points. So to me the better the pour point of a given oil in a specific rating the better it will flow through an engine when it is dead cold, and that's is the agreed upon time most severe wear occurs. So again, I will be going to synthetic, and since I have an account with them to sell their oil I am going to try it for the first oil couple oil changes, but that will be after fixing the leak in my timing cover/front structure so I do not waste more of the expensive oil I fill it with.

I will also likely be going with either a dual bypass type, or centrifugal type bypass filter.

Need to research the centrifugal type filters moreto see if what I was told in tech school, and what I am assuming is happening in the Mack motors I've overhauled has any relevance.
 

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The “Jeopardy” host says, “Mister Editor, would you like to play ‘Double Jeopardy’ for 40,000 miles?”
“No, Alex, I’ll pass.” In my efforts to become a lube oil analysis/lube oil engineer I learned that a 10,000 mile oil interval is okay, and that 20,000 miles is okay, too. And, as mentioned, with a capacity of only three-gallons, the cost of lube oil is close to the cost of the oil analysis. I’m comfortable changing the oil at 15,000 miles, which (oddly enough?) coincides with the factory’s schedule A maintenance requirement.
I draw issue to this, uoa costs about 20 dollars, from blackstone labs.... Therefore it is cheaper to have it tested at the 5000, 10000, etc several times, then it would be to follow the drain interval of 5000 and forget about it.... Stealership charges 79.00 for their service, parts stores charge about 70 dollars for delvac 15-40 3 gallons and a purolator filter....

So uoa every 5k is 80 bucks at 20000 miles..... Blindly following the service interval costs 280..... And guess what if the oil is good, I save even more..... So I will be going the extended drain route... Once baseline is established over several cycles, i will know where I m at and exactly how long I can go.... I have heard of guys in semi trucks with over 100k on a single fill using amsoil and a bypass filter..... All they do with this persons truck is change the full flow every recommended service stop, and bypass every other, then top off the oil when done changing filters. And they take a sample at this time for testing....
 
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