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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok,,, new gauges being installed in the morning,,, any thing i need to know,,, short cuts, tips would be helpfull.

what temps and pressure should i be looking for???

egt??? bone stock, I have new 4 inch silver line i will install after i get a few days of run time with new gauge, i want to see the diff if any in egt temp with stock vrs 4 inch.

fuel presure??? fass raptor 150, i know its adjustable, but what pressure is the target,,,

Turbo bost???? again its bone stock with fass 150, no other mods yet,,,

thanks for any and all input....kevin
 

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You need to fill out your signature so everyone knows what truck you have and whats been done to it.

What readings you get on your gauges are going to be determined by what truck you have, whats been done, and what readings you're after. ie, idling, cruising, WOT, towing, etc..... And the quality of the gauges.

EGT's from stock exhaust to 4" will probably not be much if any different on a stock truck.

Maximum boost pressure is preset by the wastegate and ECM specific to model year, unless you have a timing/fueling box with a boost fooler.

Given that you're posting in the 2nd gen section, I'm only guessing you have a 2nd gen truck, so make sure you properly place the thermocouple for the pyrometer. The best place is in the exhaust manifold and if you do some Google searching, you'll find a few instructions on how to do it.

Fuel pressure settings are kinda a personal preference since there's nothing definitive from anyone like Bosch or Cummins stating anything specific. But in saying that, there's lots of VP gurus out there who have followed VP history for the past decade and believe that 20(ish) psi idle and no less than 15 WOT is the best settings for keeping the VP cool and happy. :thumbsup:
 

· The FICM is bad. NM VP
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The EGT to expect is dependant on truck/build like KATOOM said. But you dont want to exceed 1350-1400 for any extended amount of time. (There are guys on here that will tell you more, that they've ran 1600 up hills, and there will be others that say you dont wanna get over 1200), it is kinda up to you. Once you hit 1400 I think you are playing with fire.
 
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The EGT to expect is dependant on truck/build like KATOOM said. But you dont want to exceed 1350-1400 for any extended amount of time. (There are guys on here that will tell you more, that they've ran 1600 up hills, and there will be others that say you dont wanna get over 1200), it is kinda up to you. Once you hit 1400 I think you are playing with fire.
Really this rule of thumb isnt up to anyone's discretion because its simple chemistry. Aluminum has a melting temp of around 1200*. But because the pistons aren't 100% aluminum and because the actual spike in temperature during combustion is only momentary, the advised "sustained" EGT is 1250*. Sustained is the key word as its OK to run hotter for short bursts of a few seconds or so. How hot is safe is where flyboy86q is right by saying that its up to you. But.....if someone is willing to play with fire (no pun) then Cummins actually states that the maximum EGT for the ISB is 1350*. In saying that, Cummins uses extreme high dollar equipment during their dyno run testing. Does anyone trust their $100 pyrometer to not be off by 50* or so? Thats where 1250* came from. :thumbsup:
 
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· The FICM is bad. NM VP
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Really this rule of thumb isnt up to anyone's discretion because its simple chemistry. Aluminum has a melting temp of around 1200*. But because the pistons aren't 100% aluminum and because the actual spike in temperature during combustion is only momentary, the advised "sustained" EGT is 1250*. Sustained is the key word as its OK to run hotter for short bursts of a few seconds or so. How hot is safe is where flyboy86q is right by saying that its up to you. But.....if someone is willing to play with fire (no pun) then Cummins actually states that the maximum EGT for the ISB is 1350*. In saying that, Cummins uses extreme high dollar equipment during their dyno run testing. Does anyone trust their $100 pyrometer to not be off by 50* or so? Thats where 1250* came from. :thumbsup:
I agree its not at discretion. But guys will do what they will do. If it did it once it will keep doing it forever right? I would back off my 01 at 1150 if it seemed like it wasn't going to level out soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the info,,,
I was hopeing the 4 inch exhaust would show some releife to the egt,, as for as the numbers i was looking for ball parks,,, the gauges are from street glow,, not the best, but just dropped $1100 in vp and thats what i could swing at the time.

i have no intrest in pushing the truck that close to the limit,,, i am just wanting to know some ball park base lines to see if the gauges are somewhat accurate... thanks agin for the info...

i still want to do some base lines on egt and boost...
0 to 75 wot,,,
with and without trailer...
i pull a 16 ft tool trailer 95% of the time,,, it crossing the scales around 6500lbs
 

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Sig modification is in user cp onbleftbside of screen. As for what numbers to expect. 0-75 wot empty will likely be between 750-950 ish empty 850-1100 loaded. Boost wise depends on tranny. Empty probably about 16 lbs, loaded 19. These are estimates as every truck is differentso if im wrong don't tear into me. Your exh will help when u start adding fuel. Boost will go up and egt will go down if you find a way to tie your wastewater open. Made a world of difference when i did it on my 01. It would push 29-31psi when i sold it.
 

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That works. The numbers i posted should be fairly close. Mine was 01 auto qcsb 2wd. I strongly recommend trans temp gauge. Just as important as egt. And wot with a 6500lbs is not advisable in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wot was not meant for the trailer,,, but a pull to get to interstate speeds is what i was talking about
 

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Okay. The numbers i posted should be close getting on interstate w load. Like i said every truck os different. Even two identical trucks will sometimes not match number for number
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok,,, fuel pressure at idle was 23-25, wot dropped to 0
added more fuel, noticed a leak at the banjo bolt, tightened up, now the guage jumps from 25 to max at idle, and drops to 7-8 at wot...and still have a leak at banjo,,, can i use teflon tape on the snubber valve and sending unit????
 

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Two problems here;
First is your pressure 23-25 is a tad high, but probably won't hurt anything, the bigger issue is dropping to ZERO!! Something is wrong! That pump should not drop that much!
Second problem is the leak. How is your fuel system set up? I assume your running through the factory filter, do you have the stock metal line from filter to vp?
Did you put a new washer on the banjo bolt? I wouldn't use Teflon tape...

Now another thing we need to know is how your gauge is set up. I see you have glow shifts, while that could explain some of the issues is doesn't explain them all.
Where is your sender? Do you have a needle valve/snubber? You need a needle valve to protect the sensor from the massive pulses the vp puts out, without it you will kill the sender pretty quick. The vp44 creates a 'water hammer' effect that kills gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
factory line from filter to vp,, i did use a snubber. Replaced banjo bolt, snubber is threaded into that, then sending unit is threaded into snubber.. The sender had a pre applied red pipe dope of some sort, but the snubber to new banjo bolt is metal to metal with no dope or teflon,,, what type of dope can u use on diesel,,,
 

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what type of dope can u use on diesel
I never use any pipe dope or tapes on ant fuel fittings. If they are standard NPT it should be self sealing. If it metric banjo or similar then it should have a sealing washer. More times out of ten people cause VP44 problems/damage with tapes and pipe dope.

fuel pressure at idle was 23-25, wot dropped to 0
You've a huge fuel system restriction like a plugged fuel filter or trying to use stock lines with a fuel module or large injectors it doesn't work.

14-20 PSI optimal pressure

10-20 PSI standard book range of pressure

5 PSI fall from idle to WOT should be MAX.

I typically only see 2-3 PSI fall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
now bigger problems,,, for the last two days,,, morning only, the fuel pump did not kick on... I tried to start, but did not hear the fuel pump come on. I turned of the key and tried agin, nothing. After about 4 or 5 times, it kicked on,,, toook a few tries to get started, then ran fine... started everytime througout the day, but this morning same thing. I checked electrical to the fuse and relay, that was good, but dont know how to check from relay to pump... could the pump be going out... Raptor 150 about 2 years old...
 
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