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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, been a minute since I've been on here. The good news is i got another cummins. Beautiful 98.5 single cab 5 speed base model with only 94,000 miles on it! The bad news is on my home from buying the truck in bfe Alabama all hell broke loose. When i bought the truck i knew the fuel gauge and tachometer were in and out. On the way home it started dead pedaling. Not complete dead pedal but i only had use of maybe 25% throttle. Against my better judgement i proceeded to limp it the rest of the 4 hrs home. The next morning i disconnected the batteries and reset the APPS. This made a world of difference but the throttle would still drop out sporadically. So i ordered a timbo apps and installed/calibrated only to still have the same issue. I don't currently own a code reader so i ran to O'reillys and had my buddy pull codes. This is where things really go downhill. P1693 (?), PO336 (crank position sensor), PO118(coolant temp sensor), PO113(iat sensor), P1698 (?), PO216 (Fi pump timing), P1690 (Fi pump not agreeing with ecm). Checked fuel pressre and im only getting 10psi at idle from a fass factory replacement lift pump. So my first step is to get a good fass frame rail mounted unit. My issue is whether the problem is the ecm, the vp44, or both. Ive checked and cleaned all grounds. The fact that it is throwing codes for every sensor on the engine leads me to believe the ecm went stupid on me. But the pump death codes and somewhat low fuel pressure tells me that the vp is bad. If anybody has any advice or could point me in the right direction before i start throwing money at this thing it would be much appreciated.
 

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ive had vp44 death codes on good pumps before. check power/ground at the ecm. having bad grounds will screw with min/max voltages at sensors. a coolant sensor is cheap, maybe grab one and just see if it fixes that sensor - if not then you know grounds/power/ecm have issues. the timing is set by the key way so id pull the pump and verrify that looks good. i have had key ways break as the shaft rotates in the gear - assume lack of clamping forces but i have seen broken lock washers up there cause things to back off.

i have also had poor wiring connections at the vp44 cause dead pedal. specifficly it was a lack of throttle responce past a certian rpm/speed limit. no fueling at higher rpm and no real power or even a lack of power past 20mph
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive had vp44 death codes on good pumps before. check power/ground at the ecm. having bad grounds will screw with min/max voltages at sensors. a coolant sensor is cheap, maybe grab one and just see if it fixes that sensor - if not then you know grounds/power/ecm have issues. the timing is set by the key way so id pull the pump and verrify that looks good. i have had key ways break as the shaft rotates in the gear - assume lack of clamping forces but i have seen broken lock washers up there cause things to back off.

i have also had poor wiring connections at the vp44 cause dead pedal. specifficly it was a lack of throttle responce past a certian rpm/speed limit. no fueling at higher rpm and no real power or even a lack of power past 20mph
Ok so i just went through and cleaned all grounds today. Nothing too corroded or broken. Now how would i go about checking power to the ecm? I will make sure to check the wiring and plug at the vp tomorrow and track down a puller to inspect that key as well. I should also note that the truck starts and idles great. Does put out a minimal amount of white smoke if i rev it. But for some odd reason it doesnt seem to have that same "hit" that most 24v's do at idle which makes me think the timing is not quite right. might just be that it is still stock exhaust tho.
 

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Look up blue chip diesel’s VP44 testing procedures, do that and you’ll probably know whether to order a pump or not.
It probably is.
 

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Clean all terminals to metal to metal connection, not just ground but positive too.
Is there an delay in the wait to start light when you turn the key to ON? It should come on immediately. Does not amatter how long just that come on. Do the grid heaters cause the normal voltage draw down at starting? The tach issue and code makes me think maybe it is just the Crank sensor which would maybe would throw off timing in the VP. So I would change it first and go from there.
Then do the Blue chip thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Clean all terminals to metal to metal connection, not just ground but positive too.
Is there an delay in the wait to start light when you turn the key to ON? It should come on immediately. Does not amatter how long just that come on. Do the grid heaters cause the normal voltage draw down at starting? The tach issue and code makes me think maybe it is just the Crank sensor which would maybe would throw off timing in the VP. So I would change it first and go from there.
Then do the Blue chip thing.
No delay on the wts light. The only thing that makes me question the crank sensor code is the fact that there's codes for every other sensor on the truck. That's what originally led me to think the ecm went stupid. I will go ahead and replace it though once i have the money, those sensors aren't cheap lol. Haven't had a chance to mess with it in the past couple days but will be checking and cleaned more wiring tm and hopefully taking a look at the pump key. Thanks for the advice guys keep it comin!
 

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Sounds like a perfect opportunity to p-pump it!
 

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He obviously does not have the money for that kind of conversion.

A good Crank sensor is 3o bucks on RockAuto, less than 50 locally.

If you do need a VP44, and that is a good possibility, they are about $1050 minimum. You can do it your self though.

"Too Corroded" is a loaded term. It does not take visible corrosion to be a bad connection.
 

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P-pump probably saves money in the long run, if done before wasting money on VP44s and tuners... and tow trucks and lost vacations.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wont be p-pumping this truck. I actually like my vp trucks for some reason lol this is my third one. If i was going to p-pump i would just do a 12v swap bc this truck is a 53 block:( anyway my current theory is that fuel pressure is dropping out when im driving (not getting signal from the ecm maybe)so im gonna buy a fp tester this evening. Guess ill order the crank sensor bc oreilly quoted me $150 for one!
 

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Did the crank sensor fix your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still waiting for funds to become available to work on this thing. I started it yesterday and she got way worse. Lift pump is not even coming on, lots of white smoke, and missing hard. Definatley think the vp is fried. Going to test voltage to the lift pump soon. The lift pump runs off of voltage from the ecm correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On another note im selling off some assets so i'm throwing around the idea of a ppump swap. 3 issues though. This truck will be daily driven, with a ppump swap i still need the ecm which is giving me issues with my tach dropping in and out and maybe my fuel gauge issue too??? and lastly the truck is a 53 block.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a little update for anyone who cares. If a sale goes through tm I'll have $2600 for the truck. Looking at $1400 for the crazy carl ppump swap kit and hopefully ill find a good maxed and balanced 180 or 215hp pump for what i have left. Then all i will need to do is built a lift pump system. Planning on an aeromotive pump with a regulated return. Im getting excited always wanted to do one of these swaps.
 
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