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new clutch install tips

3162 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  710Burner
What else should I do when I got the truck opened up to put a new clutch in?? Is there any seals or whatnot to change whiel I in there?
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I would double check the Rear main, at the very least. Oh and the top two bolts on the bell housing needed a swivel socket to get them off. For the most part is't pretty simple and would highly recommend a trans jack. I did it without one this past weekend and it was difficult, to put it nicely.
 

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You are in there, check the rear seal if it shows any seepage Change it, get the flywheel ground. Replace the pilot bearing, if there is any wear on the transmission input shaft splines replace it. If the release assembly is worn or not perfect replace it. Be sure everything is clean and lubed when assembling. File the face of the transmission, and engine, be sure all the threads are secure if not, put in heli-coils or tab-locks. Tap all bolt holes, and blow them out. Preparation, that is what makes the job go quick and you will not have to do it twice. Just a thought!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I plan on ordering a southbend 3250 kit do they come with the pilot bearing and what not
 

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I would change the rear main seal no matter what it looks like, how ty would it be to tear the tranny out again six months down the road for a $20 seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bump

bump:confused013::confused013::confused013::confused013:
 

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I just replaced my clutch with a valair single disk 550 ceramic clutch. the job took me about 2 hours. I used the bottle jack from my engine hoist to spread the frame for the tranny crossmember. I just used basic tools. start with removing hydrolics, and the wire on top of the trans, shifter assembly and cup holder on the inside. The top top bell housing bolts are actually easiest to remove first just break them loose with a 3/8 drive ratchet then back them out by hand or use a pnuematic ratchet. the work your way down the trans, place jack under trans, remove bolts from driveshaft carrier bearing, remove drive shaft from back of trans, remove bolts and nuts holding the crossmember to the frame, spread frame as close to the crossmember as possible. drop crossmember, slide trans back lower a little bit, slide back somemore, then lower the rest of the way. Remove clutch and fly wheel, remove pilot bearing from flywheel, have fly wheel turned at your local machine shop, (shouldnt be but $25-$30 at most if they try to charge you $50 like they did me tell them to use their own money as toilet paper and not your. while the flywheel is at the shop use 2 self tapping screws and drill them into the metal ring of the rear main seal that is in the engine already and pry it out with 2 flat head screw drivers, if this doesnt work carefully set your screw driver on the outer edge of the seal inbetween the seal and the aluminum seal housing and bend the metal part in away from the wall do this in several spots, this will lessen the resistance on the seal. be careful not to damage the housing or the crank shaft during this procedure. tap in the new seal, your seal kit should provide you with a seal driver. make sure its set the same depth all around put freshly turned flywheel on with thread lock on the bolts and torque to 139 ft lbs. tap in new pilot bearing into center of flywheel, insert clutch disk centering tool and clutch disk, then place pressure plate over the assembly and tighten the 3/8 bolts to 40 ft lbs of torque. replace throw out bearing on transmission, raise tranny to correct height make sure the bell housing bolts are lined up with the tranny plate holes, move trans foreward, double check that the bell housing is parallel to the trans plate all the way around. and slide trans foreward. the tranny should be in nutral so that you can turn the output shaft easily to align the splines. You will not be able to push the trans all the way foreward there maybe a 1/2" gap or so. get your 4 center bolt from bell housing to trans plate and tighten them up to pull the trans the rest of the way in. finish putting the bell housing bolts in, spread frame one more time to pu the crossmember in, reinsert driveshaft into trans, bolt up the carrier bearing, reinstall the hydraulics, makesure to plug in the electrical connector on top of trans, Double check EVERYTHING go wash up really good, come back out and reinstall the shifter assembly and cup holder. fire her up and take her for a drive and follow your breakin instructions to a t!
 
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while replacing the rear main seal... if you do chinger the aluminum housing a lil bit make sure you remove any burs and then lightly sand the area with 150 grit sand paper then 400 grit sand paper, you should be okay.
 

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I'm about to change my clutch tomorrow and found Tige Hauler's instructions to be excellent, although a little tough to follow as one paragraph. I cleaned it up to print and use as a check list. I hope you don't mind my reposting the my edits:

I just replaced my clutch with a Valair single disk 550 ceramic clutch. The job took me about 2 hours. I used the bottle jack from my engine hoist to spread the frame for the tranny crossmember. I just used basic tools.

Disassembly
• Start with removing hydraulics and the wire on top of the transmission.
• Remove shifter assembly and cup holder on the inside.
• The top bellhousing bolts are actually easiest to remove. First just break them loose with a 3/8 drive ratchet then back them out by hand or use a pneumatic ratchet.
• Work your way down the transmission; place jack under transmission, remove bolts from driveshaft carrier bearing.
• Remove drive shaft from back of transmission.
• Remove bolts and nuts holding the cross member to the frame.
• Spread frame as close to the cross member as possible.
• Drop the cross member.
• Slide transmission back, lower a little bit, slide back some more, then lower the rest of the way.
• Remove clutch and flywheel.
• Remove pilot bearing from flywheel.
• Have flywheel turned at your local machine shop (shouldn’t be but $25 - $30 at most. If they try to charge you $50 like they did me tell them to use their own money as toilet paper and not yours).

Rear Main Seal
• While the flywheel is at the shop, use 2 self-tapping screws and drill them into the metal ring of the rear main seal that is in the engine already.
• Pry it out with 2 flat head screwdrivers.
• If this doesn’t work, carefully set your screwdriver on the outer edge of the seal in between the seal and the aluminum seal housing and bend the metal part in away from the wall.
• Do this in several spots; this will lessen the resistance on the seal. Be careful not to damage the housing or the crank shaft during this procedure.
• Tap in the new seal. Your seal kit should provide you with a seal driver. Make sure it is set the same depth all around.

Reassembly
• Put freshly turned flywheel on with thread lock on the bolts and torque to 139 ft lbs.
• Tap in new pilot bearing into center of flywheel.
• Insert clutch disk centering tool and clutch disk, then place pressure plate over the assembly and tighten the 3/8 bolts to 40 ft lbs of torque.
• Replace throwout bearing on transmission.
• Raise tranny to correct height and make sure the bellhousing bolts are lined up with the tranny plate holes.
• Move transmission forward. Double check that the bellhousing is parallel to the trans plate all the way around and slide the transmission forward.
• The tranny should be in neutral so that you can turn the output shaft easily to align the splines.
• You will not be able to push the transmission all the way forward. There may be a 1/2" gap or so. Get your 4 center bolt from bellhousing to trans plate and tighten them up to pull the trans the rest of the way in.
• Finish putting the bellhousing bolts in.
• Spread frame one more time to put the crossmember in.
• Reinsert driveshaft into transmission.
• Bolt up the carrier bearing.
• Reinstall the hydraulics.
• Make sure to plug in the electrical connector on top of transmission.
• Double check EVERYTHING.
• Go wash up really good, come back out and reinstall the shifter assembly and cup holder.
• Fire her up and take her for a drive and follow your breakin instructions to a T!
It ain't easy being an anal-retentive grammar nazi! :hyper:
 
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