New Carli Commuter Install ?'s

8826 Views 33 Replies 9 Participants Last post by OCVeloMan, Jan 8, 2014

mtoma

Discussion Starter · Nov 20, 2013

I posted this in the Carli section and thought I'd also post it over here for additional comments:

So I'm having a local shop install my Carli Commuter kit this Friday along with Carli Control Arms, Carli Sway Bar and full rear leafs and was wondering what I need to tell them to make sure it comes out right?
Torque spec's, install secrets, etc.?
Is an alignment necessary afterwards? Caster-camber and alignment spec's?

Also how long should this take a shop?

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

firemansdiesel

· #2 · Nov 20, 2013

If the shop has installed lifts before, then this is a straight forward install. I believe the TQ specs come with the components, but are also on their website in each component link. Every component is nuts busting tight if all else fails.

Set Castor at 12 o'clock to start. Mine and a buddies were slightly forward with castor and had castor vibration. The 4th Gens are picky on castor settings.

Reactions: 1

Rhinopkc

· #3 · Nov 20, 2013

The instructions for everything are in the boxes, they have torque specs, etc. If they have installed suspension parts, and can follow instructions, it'll be fine. I will say that we have more issues from shops installing for the first time than from customer installs.

Reactions: 1

OCVeloMan

· #4 · Nov 20, 2013

Most shops will not follow instructions. They'll toss them in the garbage and take on the install armed with nothing but an impact gun and false sense of confidence. Most importantly, Torque the track bar bolts to 225 ft.lbs. and use the stainless shim on the upper bushing in the mount. Loctite the heim joint and tighten the jam nut on your track bar until the vein on your forehead bursts, then tighten it a tad more.

Drop the exhaust!!!! do not cut the bolt and swap it in the other way to avoid removing the down-pipe. Torque the lower control arms to 225ft. lbs. or the cam bolts will shift under hard impact. That's about all i got right now short of just re-posting our instructions. Most of all, if the instruction sheets are still a crisp, pretty white and sitting next to a very dirty set of air-tools when you go to pick up your truck, remove the torque wrench from the mechanics tool box and beat him to death with it.

In all seriousness, instructions and torque wrench. That sums up the tips and tricks to a proper installation.

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Reactions: 2

Rhinopkc

· #5 · Nov 20, 2013

OCVeloMan said:
That's about all i got right now short of just re-posting our instructions..

You just did. :hehe:

:hehe:

Reactions: 1

mtoma

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 20, 2013

"remove the torque wrench from the mechanics tool box and beat him to death with it."

Perfect! Thanks for the help guys, really looking forward to this install.

BTW Just so I don't get ripped off too bad, roughly how long should this take (assuming someone who has installed lift kits before, just not one of yours)?

Rhinopkc

· #7 · Nov 20, 2013

Some of that depends on your truck. Being so new, they should have a decent day. They should be able to give you a price up front, there is nothing more difficult about what you brought them.

Reactions: 1

OCVeloMan

· #8 · Nov 20, 2013

We say 6 hours billable on the commuter, 2-3 on the control arms, sway bar another .5-1 hour, full leafs add an hour over the add a packs. With an alignment it's a day/day and a half install for sure; especially if it's their first Carli kit.

As for alignment, on your truck, it's easy. Set the cam bolts to 12 o' clock and torque them. Set your toe to 1/8" toe-in and camber is non-adjustable. You can do toe with two guys and a straight edge in 10 minutes and adjust the caster (if necessary) from the 12 o'clock position in small increments until it's right.

Reactions: 1

mtoma

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 20, 2013

Thanks for all you help guys! I'll be sure to post up when done.

RaptorHauler

· #10 · Nov 20, 2013

Drop the exhaust...........FML. Hold that sucker tight when you drop it got me a busted nose and black eye from that mother....... Do love my Carli control arms though. I will second one thing not one stinking shop I've seen will use a freakin torque wrench. Amazing and they all think that 1/2 inch impact will tighten these things.

Reactions: 1

Rhinopkc

· #11 · Nov 20, 2013

An impact is handy for running things down, but you never know what you're getting at the end. I'd rather see a fat guy hanging off of a breaker bar than a dude with the best impact on the market.

Reactions: 1

RaptorHauler

· #12 · Nov 20, 2013

Agreed! It'll be ball joint time soon Paul. Winter is here and that's on my list of stuff to get done.

cummins4vr

· #13 · Nov 21, 2013

RaptorHauler said:
Agreed! It'll be ball joint time soon Paul. Winter is here and that's on my list of stuff to get done.

Me too,gonna do hubs and axle ujoints at the same time:S:good stuff ,especially in west texas unpredictable winter crap

mtoma

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 26, 2013

What tire pressures are you guys running with this kit?
Right now running 55 front and 45 rear (empty). With 55 in the fronts they already look a bit low so not sure how much lower I should go.

RaptorHauler

· #15 · Nov 26, 2013

That's what I'm running. Working good for me. Heck of a lot more comfortable.

Reactions: 1

Rhinopkc

· #16 · Nov 26, 2013 (Edited)

I run 43/32. Tires wear evenly. Big radials always look like they are low.

Reactions: 1

mtoma

Discussion Starter · #17 · Nov 26, 2013 (Edited)

Thanks guys I'll give that a try. Really not seeing much different of a ride over stock yet with this kit on the roads I'm running.
Definitely not as smooth as I hoped.

Anything else I might be missing?

Rhinopkc

· #18 · Nov 26, 2013

What nitrogen pressure is in the shocks?

mtoma

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 26, 2013

Rhinopkc said:
What nitrogen pressure is in the shocks?

How do you check the Commuters?
No valves.

Rhinopkc

· #20 · Nov 26, 2013 (Edited)

mtoma said:
How do you check the Commuters?
No valves.

Hmm, the truck I rode in was the tester truck. Maybe they don't put them on any more. Just the rears now.

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

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