Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
2003 dodge 2500 HO cummins
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

so back in April I finally toasted the “meh” trans I h in my ho 03, so after a summer of work/saving I have finally got my trans back from the shop I got to build it.
Build lost as follows,

-Suncoast triple disk converter
-tcs flex plate w/arp hardware
-Tcs billet input
-suncoast valve body
-firepunk rebuild kit (clutches, billet bands, drums and all the standard upgrade parts
-bd deep pan
-mishimoto trans cooler

hopefully should be good for about 700hp, currently at about 425 to 450, probably won’t ever make over 500 as it’s my daily/tow rig.

Anyways tho, before I put the trans/ new cooler etc into the truck I need to flush my lines and fix my fan clutch bc classic Cummins, she ate the wires/ harness.

so my questions are,

-flushing lines w/o trans or cooler in the truck, what does this entail ? And can I accomplish this in my shop with compressed air and a can of chemical flush ?

-second is about the fan clutch, eventually I would like to do the mechanical obs ford conversion however for the purposes of getting it done fast and cheap as I am flat broke from my trans build 😭 and miss driving my truck, what manufacture/ where should I look at getting a new fan clutch?

have been looking at the Hayden on rock auto since it’s relatively cheap and from what I’ve read on here I think it will do the job.
Just really don’t want to put my 8,000$ trans back into my truck with out the cooling system at 100%
Even tho it’s winter now and I doubt I will see high temps in the bellow 0 Celsius temps I want to do it right this time haha.

-Third is about the mishimoto cooler,
As I previously mentioned it’s winter here in northern Canada so temps are gona be fairly cold for the next 4-6 months, should I do the thermostat delete it comes with ? I know some guys swear by it in the warmer areas and I would certainly like the constant fluid flow in the summer, will it affect my trans getting to temp/ staying at it when it’s -30 c in the middle of winter ? I run a winter front witch usually helps but I’m torn between running trans too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.

-last question / concern is my truck has been sitting in the yard not moving or starting since April and I’m a little bit concerned about first start up in such a longperiod of time.
is there any preventive maintenance or prep I should do before installing trans/ starting truck?

-last question I have is fluid, now I know there has been many fluid discussions/wars on this and other forums. However, for the trans built the way it is and the power I’m making what fluid should I be running ? Normally I have always stuck with mopar atf +4 cause I figured it was safest but I Wana treat this new trans as good as I can so I can get more then a year out of this one haha.

thanks in advance and apologies about the long read,
I just want to make sure I cover all of my bases as this is a pretty large investment for me haha.
Cheers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,309 Posts
That trans with right vb setup driven very conservatively might hold 700hp, I would say closer to 500hp, no boosted 4wd launches.

Diagnose any fan codes could easily be wires, then if needed buy the Hayden if bad.

That much money in trans should have independent temp gauge sensor in pan to keep an eye on things, OEM sensor is not accurate.

Not really impressed with import Mishimoto cooler, for the money there are better quality out there IMO, Oem and Dynamic bypass will do the same and built better.

Still need oil to water cooler for tc and have proper cold weather operation or another fan driven air cooler to handle TC/trans heat with thermostat fan for cold weather operations. If using oem should be new, cant clean them be cautious with lines/fittings during install.

Clean out of lines with no coolers, good degreaser solvent, pressure washer can clean lines after you remove in line check ball and drill out or replace, Any doubt get new lines.

First start after long sit, I would fully charge batteries make sure ,
good oil/filter, some oil can go bad sitting, gets water in it from condensation in engine from hot cold cycles.
check good air filter/clear plumbing, critters love these trucks for nesting
make sure good fuel, If truck sat with less then full fuel tank ie condensation can make water in fuel tank , should deal with it drain ie totoally drain or keep eye on it check/change fuel /water separator filter(s)
Crank engine over with fuel line to cp3 off to clean out any junk in lines and get oil prime/thru engine and check oil pressure, then start do nice slow warm up. Good Luck;)
 

·
Registered
2003 dodge 2500 HO cummins
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
That trans with right vb setup driven very conservatively might hold 700hp, I would say closer to 500hp, no boosted 4wd launches.

Diagnose any fan codes could easily be wires, then if needed buy the Hayden if bad.

That much money in trans should have independent temp gauge sensor in pan to keep an eye on things, OEM sensor is not accurate.

Not really impressed with import Mishimoto cooler, for the money there are better quality out there IMO, Oem and Dynamic bypass will do the same and built better.

Still need oil to water cooler for tc and have proper cold weather operation or another fan driven air cooler to handle TC/trans heat with thermostat fan for cold weather operations. If using oem should be new, cant clean them be cautious with lines/fittings during install.

Clean out of lines with no coolers, good degreaser solvent, pressure washer can clean lines after you remove in line check ball and drill out or replace, Any doubt get new lines.

First start after long sit, I would fully charge batteries make sure ,
good oil/filter, some oil can go bad sitting, gets water in it from condensation in engine from hot cold cycles.
check good air filter/clear plumbing, critters love these trucks for nesting
make sure good fuel, If truck sat with less then full fuel tank ie condensation can make water in fuel tank , should deal with it drain ie totoally drain or keep eye on it check/change fuel /water separator filter(s)
Crank engine over with fuel line to cp3 off to clean out any junk in lines and get oil prime/thru engine and check oil pressure, then start do nice slow warm up. Good Luck;)
Definitely not gona be hitting boosted launches lol, she’s been sitting for too long not about to shred this one haha

and yea the wires are gone from the clutch back including the harness so I don’t think much trouble shooting is needed she’s already dicked haha

and not a fan of the mishimoto? I’ve talked to a few guys on here and in the last few years they seem to have improved their product quite a bit, and I figured better then stock for the same price as oem so frig it haha

and yea I’ve been debating deleting the oil/water cooler but I think I’ve settled on keeping it because of the cold weather. I’ve been told that it’s super hard to get it out without damaging it, is it possible to flush it with out removing it ?

batteries are good I’ve had them pulled since I parked and just charged them up last week. And as far as fuel I was going to change the filter and put in some fuel stabilizer, but if you think I’d be better to drain/ flush tank I probably will do that.
thanks for the answer and great info as always rghavana,

do you know if there is a thread in here referencing priming the oil system? I’ve never done it.... sure I can find something on YouTube tho.

And what fluid do you run in your trans ? Should I stick with the mopar atf+4?

Oh yea almost forgot, I’ve got a temp sensor for the pan and a gauge on order, also running a smarty touch although not 100% accurate at least I’ve got something haha
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,309 Posts
Definitely not gona be hitting boosted launches lol, she’s been sitting for too long not about to shred this one haha

and yea the wires are gone from the clutch back including the harness so I don’t think much trouble shooting is needed she’s already dicked haha

Hayden then or mechanical conversion, and check if cutting, pulled on engine harness and damaged it by test with ohm meter should all be about same resistance < 10 ohms.

and not a fan of the mishimoto? I’ve talked to a few guys on here and in the last few years they seem to have improved their product quite a bit, and I figured better then stock for the same price as oem so frig it haha

Lets hope, bought some of their stuff for older BMW I have, did not really help or last.

and yea I’ve been debating deleting the oil/water cooler but I think I’ve settled on keeping it because of the cold weather. I’ve been told that it’s super hard to get it out without damaging it, is it possible to flush it with out removing it ?

If more then 100k miles replace
If it got real hot fluid cooked in it, almost impossible to get cleaned without weakening it, and since any damage to it can take trans out I would just replace, can find good quality USA made for $200.



batteries are good I’ve had them pulled since I parked and just charged them up last week. And as far as fuel I was going to change the filter and put in some fuel stabilizer, but if you think I’d be better to drain/ flush tank I probably will do that.
thanks for the answer and great info as always rghavana,

If you don't have larger -3 micron fuel filter and larger/better water separator, I would drain start fresh, stabilizer wont get rid of all water/rust debris which can end up going thru CP3 and injectors cause damage.
If a lot of fuel can drain into containers let sit and can probably recover the majority by letting it sit, water heavy rust debris goes to bottom, then filtering mixing with 3/4 tanks of fuel once truck is running.

do you know if there is a thread in here referencing priming the oil system? I’ve never done it.... sure I can find something on YouTube tho.

No, without doing proper oil analysis, I would just change oil/filter, oil can get acidic and additive package wears out , then easiest just crank over 3-4 times in 10 second intervals so as to not damage starter, and then with your real oil pressure gauge verify good oil pressure. let her eat!!

And what fluid do you run in your trans ? Should I stick with the mopar atf+4?

Triple disc usually Dex/Merc should verify with converter manufacturer.
Per Dave at Goerend I run Lubegard also
"47/48RE transmissions first used Dexron fluid, then Chrysler 7176 fluid, then Mopar type 3, and now Mopar type 4. We have used all without any problems. There are many good fluids you can use, most synthetics are fine. You can use Dexron 3 or Dexron/Mercon alone or with a Lubegard additive. We DO NOT use Dexron 6 or any other additive other than Lubegard. Do not use a type A / Suffix A fluid. This is for 1966 and older transmissions. Type F will give a firmer shift but we do not recommend it, or Type CJ. We use Dexron 3 and a bottle of Lubeguard. Other types of transmission fluid include Amsoil Synthetic and Mopar type 4. Do not use Lubeguard additive with these fluids. "


Oh yea almost forgot, I’ve got a temp sensor for the pan and a gauge on order, also running a smarty touch although not 100% accurate at least I’ve got something haha
Always good to have a reliable sensor because of POS sensor/wiring on these trucks.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top