[Wisco Man]

Hey guys I'm recently just bought a 2008 6.7 Cummins with 131000 miles on it, it's fully deleted and has a 4 inch turbo back straight pipe other than that is stock it's never been tuned or quote on quote messed with, was just wondering if there's anything I should keep an eye out for? Any information is much appreciated thank you

 

[NVScout]

I would start saving up for a trans if it hasn’t been done! Mine failed at 89k.

 

[Rd94yj]

Can you do a delete without doing a tune?

Yea be careful with your trans, even with torque management removed, you can kill the 68rfe. I would look into getting trans tuning. It may give the trans more life.
Eventually you may get the lightening bolt on the dash and a low voltage output notification, usually due to corroded battery cables. I see this often on the fourms.

There’s many common third gen problems/querks. Start reading and watching the threads and you’ll get a general understanding.

 

[Rd94yj]

Also get some quality engine oil and run the fleet guard stratapore oil filter LF16035.

Then if it hasn’t been done, run the fs2 design fuel filter. Fleet guard fs43257


This is the first thing I would do.

 

[s10010001]

At 131000k, alone with the obvious Oil and fuel filter change, I would assume the Rear Diff, Front Diff, Transfer case and Coolant have never been changed and do them right away. Setup a good baseline for yourself. Have the trans flushed too if there no service record for it. (basically all the fluids haha)
- Rear diff - I would put in full synthetic, 75W-90 or even a 140 if you live in real hot climate and tow heavy.

- Coolant - Unless it looks super clean or you have a service record for the change, I would do a thermostat (OEM only), new coolant, possibly new hoses.

- PS fluid - bare minimum I would use a turkey baster to suck out as much fluid as I can then fill, drive repeat 2-3 times. If not a full flush.

- Brake fluid - I would just change it all the first time I did the brakes.

- valve lash - thats coming up at 150k, its pretty simple but take a while the first time if you have not done it before. google-fu!

- CCV Filter - Check to see if you still have one, if it was "deleted" I would likely buy a new one and put it back. This should be changed every 67,500k, but I would do less, like 50k.


Heres a good link on the service intervals, fluid quantity, fluid types and parts: 6.7L Cummins Maintenance Schedule & Service Information


As for the deletes, thats good you are deleted but you pretty much must have a tune on the truck to be deleted. If you didn't you would be in limp mode with CEL. Now they could have used a "stock HP/Tq" tune, but more than likely you its something mild for better MPG. Not many spend the money on a tuner to delete and don't bump the timing a notch to give better efficiency. Nothing to really worry about, but just be away it is likely tuned, even if a stock tune, and it is federally illegal.


Trans - Saving up for one or not, IDK, I see plenty of guys getting 200+ on the stock trans. It all in how you (and the PO) treat it. No burnouts or WOT until 1800rpm and new fluids at or before intervals goes a long way. As does minding the temps, Even on stock truck I would put a trans temp gauge on it. Personally I would get a ISSPRO EV2 trans gauge from Genos, it will come with a clip thingy that holds the temp sensor right up on the steel hot line out of the trans. This is a great place to read temps form and does not involve cutting the line. Pickup a SRT10 pillar to mount the gauge! unless you plan on adding more gauges that is. But trans temp is a minimum.


Other than that, drive the piss out of and you will learn what it needs. 130k is nothing, its mostly catching up on maintenance that was likely skipped, and undoing stupid mods like CCV filter delete, or random electrical crap people feel the need to do a shotty job at lol.

EDIT: Heres my maintenance log if you want to take a look, Its a work in progress but I try to get everything I do on it. (some equipment came off, but thats not on the sheet)
https://www.icloud.com/numbers/0N3SaxB5DT6CpQI_Q-2yZSKiw#2008_Dodge_Ram_2500

 

[s10010001]

Then if it hasn’t been done, run the fs2 design fuel filter. Fleet guard fs43257

Yea this is kinda big deal, The older stock filter wasn't very good and form what I read was the cause of a lot of injector failures. The "FS2" upgrades it to better filter, cheaper to chance. Likely on a stock truck, this would be all you need. Personally, if I didn't already have the FS2 I would just add the single or dual setup form this site link below. Easy to install, excellent filtration, not to expensive.

'03-'12 Cummins Fuel Filter Kit

 

[jakeorders]

I would start saving up for a trans if it hasn’t been done! Mine failed at 89k.

My 68rfe made it to 265k and many members here seen more miles than i did without TCM tuning, they are pretty bullet proof for what it's designed for unless launching and burnouts are one of your favorite hobby's. Anyway's, my records shows at around those miles i've replaced my steering box, ball joints, u-joints and for the most part upgraded the front end and to now at 310k still going strong.

Like what s10010001, continued schedule maintenance with the right parts and oil goes a long way... Welcome to the Forum...

 

[Squeaksleaks]

Keep the exhaust brake on at all times. It will burn out your actuator quicker, but it will keep the turbo from getting gummed up.

 

[Wisco Man]

How should I know if the truck is in limp mode, the seller said that the previous owner had it deleted and had a banks tuner on it but where he bought it from they did not have a tuner of any sort on it, just the deletes and the cel check engine light is on, should I go out and get a stock tune put on the truck and if so would that make the light go away? Everything that you guys have told me about is very helpful so far and have a list of fluids to change and some new filter anything else would be much appreciated.

 

[Chevymonster350]

Congrats on the new truck. 130k is nothing on these trucks.
I just recently purchased my 3rd gen in July and since then I have done the following:
Truck
Oil change 190k
F & E Diff 190k
Adjust valves 190k
Trans fluid 150k
Airdog 165 4g 190k
Steering 189k

Let me say this, I am a very good at home wrench turner but be careful with the valve lash because if you do not torque the jam nut to enough ftlbs (35 for me) they could come lose and bend a pushrod.... Ask me how I know...

The biggest thing with these trucks I've noticed is keeping a 2micron filter on the truck at least. Or just do what I did and upgrade the stock lift pump with an Airdog 4g.

Careful with overdrive gears 5 and 6

Other than that drive it and have fun.

 

[s10010001]

Keep the exhaust brake on at all times. It will burn out your actuator quicker, but it will keep the turbo from getting gummed up.

Is that even still the case deleted? I normally run mine all the time in town, locking to 4th gear gets the most punch out of it. But I have recently been lighter on the pedal, letting it use 5th and 6th in town so I have been leaving it off more. I don't like the EB in town when it has to move form OD to UD.

I agree using it often keeps it freed up, but I'm thinking deleted its not such a big deal to use it 24/7. I would just make sure you use it regularly, even if its only when getting off the freeway to give it a good workout.

How should I know if the truck is in limp mode, the seller said that the previous owner had it deleted and had a banks tuner on it but where he bought it from they did not have a tuner of any sort on it, just the deletes and the cel check engine light is on, should I go out and get a stock tune put on the truck and if so would that make the light go away? Everything that you guys have told me about is very helpful so far and have a list of fluids to change and some new filter anything else would be much appreciated.

Banks does not make a tuner for the 07.5-09 (maybe to 011?) trucks. Typically its not a tuner like on older trucks. Those tuners went inline with sensors and modules to fool sensors or modify the data. On your truck the tuner is more like a programmer. The "tune" is loaded onto your ECM and then removed. So you won't see anything.

You will know if you are in limp mode, the truck will barely move, CEL, OHIC warnings. If you are deleted (specially the DFP/NOX is missing) you must have a tune on there otherwise it would be in limp mode. There is some "simulators" you could put on the DPF/NOX sensors to fool the stock computer to think the DFP/NOX was there when they really weren't, but I don't think they are used much any more. More than likely you have a tune of some kind. If its adding HP or just deleting who knows.

EDIT: You most likely have a tune from a basic cheap box tuner like a Smarty Jr or MiniMax. nothing really wrong, for just deletes or super mild HP/MPG boost they are fine. no way to tell really that I know of. If it bothers you, you could pickup your own tuner and flash over it. Or just drive it like it is, probably is just fine. EFI Live is kinda the way to go here, high quality tunes, best running trucks, best efficiency.. but expensive. I just user a Smarty Jr myself.. works fine for me.

My only concern with driving it like it is, is you just don't know. It could be on a 70+HP tune and making a lot of EGT, without a gauge you would never know, but stock you don't really need a EGT gauge so its your call. lol, fun.

 

[cerberusiam]

If it is deleted it was\is tuned and\or messed with. If they had a delete tuner on it and pulled then there are inherent issues. I you do not know what tune is on it you might have to re-flash the ECM to get a good tuner delete on it. Without knowing what you have for tuning and setup it is just waiting to leave you stranded or worse.

What transmission do you have? That will somewhat determine what you need for a tuner. Typical with a a delete if you push it hard or do not set the tune right you will be doing a head gasket in the near future.

Get a resonator for the exhaust system, the drone on straight exhaust just gets annoying after a while. It may sound quiet but at road speed the 6.7 is terrible on drone. If you have manual trans it will be more noticable at hiway speed.

 

[Wisco Man]

Cerberusiamit
It does not have the egr (has blocker plates) and the dpf is gone so in that case it would need a tune from my understanding of what I've been reading to run properly or if it was not it would be in limp mode?