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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently got my HE351CW and timing spacer put on. I can still easily hit 1600 degrees on the pyrometer. I haven't even installed my new fuel pin yet either. But now, the budget is dying up...quick. I have the parts coming for a BHAF. So what is the best bang for the buck? F-word Intercooler and 3" piping? A different turbo? Another turbo? I would prefer to stay away from W/M.

I would like to be able to run on the floor and not have the temps get over 1300 without derating the pump. I'm not asking for much, eh?
 

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Ducati M.
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try switching to a 2nd gen intake horn, and upgrade your ic pipes. compounds will probably be the ticket to dropping your egts to lower than your goal
 

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What's your inlet fuel pressure? How big of tires you running, what is the average temperature and elevation? Do you have a tachometer? I have been recently told 190 injectors are all 155° spray angles. That's way outside of the bowl with that timing spacer.
 

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What's your boost at that temp?

Where is your timing?

Auto? they run a lot hotter.

Whose Bosch 190s? There are 3 diff. p/n that companies use.

At 20 degrees of timing, my truck doesn't see 1600 degrees until I'm at 50psi with a gate that's opening at 40psi.
 

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My 190 with my gds 60mm upgrade would smack my pyro to the right. I had the timing almost to the head with a governor spring, and a low press piston lift pump. If I wanted 1250 degrees on my pyro I had to keep the boost at 32 psi. This was with a 16cm2 housing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My waste gate is set at 32 LBS. It will hold 32 right up to 1650*. Timing is stock, it just has the spacer. Getrag transmission. 31" tires. I don't know about the injectors. I was told by the PO that it had Bosch 190's.

I haven't seen more than 60* up here yet and we always get to 100* plus in the summer.:doh: We're at about 4,000 feet and I occasionally tow over 9,000 ft.
 

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Well.... you need more boost to cool thngs down, tighten up your gate so you get closer to 40.

Just an fyi.... if you can only get 32psi, your gate is opening well before 32. I can get over 30 psi with a gate set to open at 20.

Also more timing will cool things down a couple hundred degrees.
 

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Turn up your boost, down your fuel screw and go.

No boost until 2 heat cycles?? Thats tough, i make boost no matter how easy i am on the throttle.
 

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I think he might have meant boost close to your peak numbers. Like keeping it to 15-20 instead of max boost or something like that
 
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Are you using the factory gate or a spring gate? Did you do any porting work to the waste gate or exhasut housing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's the factory gate with a spring on it. I drilled the hole out to 1".

How do you all get to the right side top pump bolt? I can't seem to get to it. It will get worse the more advanced it is, won't it?
 

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Can the flapper puck seal the housing?

I use a 13mm s wrench. Other guys make their own, I paid snapon for mine.

I don't understand factory actuator with spring, picture?
 
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I don't think you should waste the money or time on trying to fab in a different inter-cooler or intake horn or anything for that matter there. Once you get to a point with these things where you have that certain amount of fuel, they just won't cool down. You may see a 200 degree drop if that, your turbo is still going to be pushing hot air, that's just because it's at that point where it is compressing the air a little more than needed. I don't think you'll see enough of a drop in EGT's for your work that you'll have in all that crap to be worth it.

You know, I may be completely wrong though, something magical may happen and it may never go over 1,000 degrees again. It's just whatever you wanna try. Sometimes you gotta risk it to get the biscuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes the puck seals the port.

The spring is helping the actuator hold the flapper shut.

I don't see how a "s" wrench will get the top bolt loose.

Should I use "a" or "an" before "s"? "an" sounds better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't think you should waste the money or time on trying to fab in a different inter-cooler or intake horn or anything for that matter there. Once you get to a point with these things where you have that certain amount of fuel, they just won't cool down. You may see a 200 degree drop if that, your turbo is still going to be pushing hot air, that's just because it's at that point where it is compressing the air a little more than needed. I don't think you'll see enough of a drop in EGT's for your work that you'll have in all that crap to be worth it.

You know, I may be completely wrong though, something magical may happen and it may never go over 1,000 degrees again. It's just whatever you wanna try. Sometimes you gotta risk it to get the biscuit.
So what do you suggest? Save up, bite the bullet and go with compounds? Rebuild the motor with a different cam and ported heads? All are out of the budget.

Would the correct spray angle injectors help any?
 

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Those turbos can push up to 40-45 psi. It has a lot and I mean a lot of cooling passed 32 psi. I have one and have messed with my gate and I know where my truck runs at 30, 35, 40, 45, up to 55 psi and what the temps are.

Another thing is timing, I can change my timing to where it would run 1600 degrees at 50psi.... advance my timing to run 43 psi at 1250 degrees.
 

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You know, I can't tell you to do anything here. But my suggestion is to tone the truck down a hair for now and start gathering parts for compounds. Trust me, you will more than likely want to kill somebody by the time you're done with building the compounds. The only reason I'm suggesting compounds is because I have built my setup and I have run it for a while. Once you experience compounds you won't ever want anything else. It's like heaven in an engine bay.

Buuuuttt you're gonna need a lot of stuff and some money wouldn't hurt either. You won't need near as much money of you build the setup yourself, also the learning experience from the build is extremely useful. If you want some help and a general list of things just ask.
 
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