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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 96 5 speed 1 ton dually. It has 35's on it. I like the way the truck looks with the big tires so i dont really wanna change that. im going to be using this truck for my welding truck so i want to get better mileage out of it. im getting around 13 right now and i believe the fuel pump is turned up by the amount of smoke coming out threw every gear but not sure how much. Is the any ways that aren't that expensive to do to get better mileage other than turning the fuel pump back down?
Thanks.
 

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Throw a BHAF (air filter) on it, does it have exhuast? Cheap way is to chop out the cat and muffler and straight pipe it. Depending on your laws of course. Deff turn the fuel back down and tune it properly with a mild plate, #10 gave me decent milage. I run a little Howes through every tank, beleive it or not I do think it helps me. Other than that off the top of my head you're still gonna be limited slightly by your tire size and gear ratio around town. You should have no prob bumping it up to the 15-16 mpg range around town.
 

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Fill in you sig.

Read the beginners threads, they are easy reading no matter how mechanically inclined you are.

In those threads you learn why your truck is smoking and how to tune your AFC so it doesn't. Just a side note, if you are belching smoke you are wasting fuel.
 

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I agree with the others... First step is getting you an ed-you-ma-cay-shun.

Then, in order:

Breathing -- more air in and out -- BHAF & 4" exhaust

Fuel control -- make it appropriate for your desired use. A #10 fuel plate works better than no plate or a #0 plate, and find out how far forward it is and adjust. Same with the star wheel... Find out which injectors. If they are 370 marine injectors -- a very popular swap a few years ago -- then dump them for a good set of 215 stockers. The wrong spray pattern just washes down the cylinder walls and wastes fuel for very slight gains that can be had with proper tuning instead.

Gearing -- find out what you have and how it works best with your tire size. With 35s you can run 4.10s fine. With shorter tires the 3.55 set will give much better mileage. Also, make sure your tires are at max inflation and also, if possible, run a street tread instead of a blocky off-road tread. You would be amazed at the difference in the way the street tread tires run out compared to off-road treads.

Governor speed -- bumping up the governor spring to run 3200 rpm if this is not already done will replace some of the missing power from over-fueling and still let you pull out to pass, etc.

Timing -- run about 16* with the setup I am describing above.

Do all of the above and drive decent and I would think that you could expect to see close to 20 mpg. When my OD is working I am seeing 24-25 from mine. Without OD (currently blow out) I'm still seeing better mileage than you with above 16.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the help. It has a k&b filter on it and 4 inch straight pipe but I'm about to put 5in on it pretty soon. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Thanks for all the help. It has a k&b filter on it and 4 inch straight pipe but I'm about to put 5in on it pretty soon. Thanks again for the help.
Unless you are going to be making absolutely huge power the 5" exhaust is not needed. It has a different sound but that is not going to improve anything else for you.

Some guys say not to use a K&N filter. Apparently they believe it does not filter well.
 

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Unless you are going to be making absolutely huge power the 5" exhaust is not needed. It has a different sound but that is not going to improve anything else for you.

Some guys say not to use a K&N filter. Apparently they believe it does not filter well.
I agree... More is not better at your power range and with your desired result. Save your money for something that will help like tires or gear change.

The K&N have two issues with a direct-to-turbo intake like the Cummins. First, they allow a fine mist of oil (which they need in order to filter at all) which coats the blades of the turbo, and next they allow a fine mist of dust, which sticks to the oil and will eventually toss your turbo's cookies.

Go with a dry paper element, sized large enough to reduce any potential backpressure. Even better, do the cowl intake mod and get colder air to the turbo. Every little bit helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help once again. I'll invest in a different air filter as soon as possible. The 5 inch exhaust is mostly for sound for me, i just like the way it sounds. The fuel plate seems like a good idea and the timing also. I'm willing to try anything that will help with mileage that wont have me digging too deep into my pockets.
 

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Help with mpg comes from one thing. The drivers right foot. The harder it presses on the pedal the lower your mpg will be. I have read that the same truck with different drivers can get a 30% difference in mpg. Take off easy. Keep the RPM's low. I got 26 mpg at 54 mph and 1,500 rpm. I went up to 70 and maybe hit 20 mpg if that much.

I have also read that the air dam under the front bumper is worth 1 mpg. If your truck does not have one get one.

Driving in town will always get lower mpg compared to the highway. It takes some energy to get more than 3 tons up to speed.
 

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Tires and Fuel Economy - Turbo Diesel News -

I agree with country_hick that driver throttle input makes the biggest difference.

A trick the delivery companies like UPS uses is to avoid left turns. Plan your route with right turns if possible because typically when turning left you will be waiting longer for a gap in the traffic to turn, therefore sitting idling longer. It adds up.

Another thing I found, is when I made my home made valet switch (just replaced the AFC line from the head to the pump with fittings, fuel hose and a plumbing ball valve) I noticed a side effect of better fuel economy because the pump isn't ramping up the fuel under boost.
 

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What most people say with intake/exhaust.

My thoughts with the injectors, I'd pull them out and have a shop clean and reset the pop pressures and set the timing at 16 or 17* too. Stock injectors are fine for trying to get fuel mileage. Just make sure they have been gone over. Locally (if I pull the injectors myself) it only costs about $90 to have a shop clean and reset the pop pressures on a set of 6 bosch mechanical injectors

I would pull the plate, back the smoke screw out, and spend a couple hours dialing the starwheel in. If it's a total dud off the line, turn the smoke screw back in just a little at a time until it isn't so sluggish, but that's just me. some say run a plate, others don't. It's up to you. A valet is also an option.

I'd probably run an he351 for a truck that is lightly modded if I was going for fuel mileage. Or an s300g (57/65/14) for a turbo.

Other than that, watch the right foot. driving habits play an enormous role in fuel mileage.

Also, if you want to maintain the tire size get some easy rolling hwy-ish tires in a 315/75/16 size. Or drop to a 285/75/16 if you can.

remember with the tires though, don't get anything that has too agressive of a tread design, and don't get anything that has overly soft rubber. Also, the lighter the tire/wheel combo, the better too.

If you have an auto, get a converter!!
 
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also if you do short trips in town like say a mile to school or something like that "in other words not letting it get up to operating temp."

also if you dont have it already get gauges (they are a mpg tool, and monitor vital engine functions as well (keep boost low and egts low(600) of course its hard when you live in the hill country "just helping out"
 

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When I went to electric fan I gained a good 1-2 MPG depending on the situation. But this was in the winter, summers and slow speeds plus using it hard would call for a Really stout couple of fans to keep up.
 

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what real numbers does timing do mpgs wise just asking
Not sure if there are numbers out there or not. But timing adjustments make the engine run better, snappier, burning the fuel more efficiently for power, which -- as well noted -- if one keeps his foot OUT of the throttle the mileage will increase. There is a limit to the total advance that works, however. Too much and you just start hosing down the cylinder walls. A LOT of timing may make good power on a dyno, where wide-open-throttle is the name of the game, but that doesn't translate well to economical street driving.

Good luck with the throttle thing though... Once a few drivability mods like governor spring kit, timing, decent fuel settings, and breathing are all incorporated DRIVING the truck becomes addictive.
 

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I have been getting 17 on the back roads of NC. These passed few weeks I have been turning the OD off, getting the converter to lock at 30 and staying under 50 MPH (1500rpm) and I am just over 20 mpg. This is very EASY driving.
 

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Thanks for the help once again. I'll invest in a different air filter as soon as possible. The 5 inch exhaust is mostly for sound for me, i just like the way it sounds. The fuel plate seems like a good idea and the timing also. I'm willing to try anything that will help with mileage that wont have me digging too deep into my pockets.
My opinions are based on 30 years of being in and around the pipeline business and they are only opinions.

First I have to guess that this is your first truck. Most in the business have worn out their 12 valves long ago.

No problem though it is a great truck, and will serve you well as long as you keep up with the maintenance and keep on bolting new parts on it.

Best advice I can give is set it back to stock with some added timing get new Bosch 215 injectors or have yours rebuilt and tune the smoke out of it, either pull your fuel plate completely or grind a nice profile. But back off of the smoke, it is tuned properly when there is very little smoke.

Keep the turbo stock and run the shortest 4" straight pipe that you can, you will soon get tired of the drone and then you can put something else on it.

Stock air box because in some of the locations that you will be working a stock filter is all that you will be able to get and you will need to change it often if you are on the right of way all day.

Same applies for keeping all of the other parts stock, availability in remote locations.

You do need gauges as they will assist you in getting mileage and help you to not hurt your truck. For mileage keep boost below 10 and temp below 1000 even when towing.

You did not say if you are keeping the pickup bed or using a welding bed, (aluminum is your friend) what machine are you going to run? They all have their issues; sa200 light, best arc, gasoline, old ;sa250 good arc,diesel, heavy, noisy, vibration; pipe pro ok arc, light, diesel; sae350 great arc, might be diesel, heavy enough to sink a battleship.

Keep as much weight off the truck as possible do not let heavy stuff accumulate 2 oxygen and 1 acetylene is enough. You will be heavy enough with all of the stuff you have to have.

Upgrade your transmission as soon as possible as you will be towing your house at some point in the future, that is just the way it is.

Run the best oil that you can and change it often especially on your machine rule of thumb every 100hrs on 200 and 250 I think the pipe pro is like 150 or so, your machine is your life take care of it same goes for truck.

I personally hate working out of a truck with anything over 33" tires but that is just me. I do not think that you will like the 35's after a while with the weight. Keep them aired up to 70 or 80.

Have fun, do not jump the pipe especially on a union job but it is not polite anytime unless a guy just cannot keep up then you might not have a choice.
Always weld as if they are going to shoot it especially if they say they wont I have been bit by that before.


jim
 

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Keeping it simple the theory is...air in, air out, fuel, timing and drag. a big air filter makes breathing less restrictive as does a free flowing exhaust. If your truck is blowing smoke you are wasting fuel, timing 16 makes a big difference in fuel economy, drag...big tires and agressive tread and low pressure and lots of weight will "slow your roll" making it harder to push your druck down the poad. A lumber rack will decrease your mpg because it will catch the air acting like a sail. Lastly, go easy on the skinny pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for all the help. Been busy lately so thats why its taken so long to finish reading and reply back. Jim I will build a bed for this truck and get rid of the pickup bed. I run a Sa 200 right now. Very good machine to me so far have not had any major problems just the basic stuff. Thanks again for everybodys input I will use this suggestion to keep the truck running good and clean.

Thanks
 
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