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Hi this is my first posting to this sight
I have enjoyed reading this forum
I have not found what I am looking for but am not so computer literate as I would like to be
anyway heres the 1st question
Thanks for any help
My injector pump leaks
I have picked up another used one
Can I replace it myself?
I have not had a lot of experience on diesel engines
Is there a gasket behind the pump?
What do I need to know?
:S:
 

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there's actually a seperate subforum for all the different generation trucks... try asking in there for advice from people who really know that particular truck.

here's a link for your convenience since you're not too computer literate!
89-93 Powertrain - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
 

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There is a gasket between the timing case and the injection pump. It's not very critical and is more like a cheap piece of paper.

The only special tool to remove the IP is a 13mm "S"-wrench to get to the third bolt that holds the IP onto the timing case; it's tucked behind the IP, you can't get to it with anything else unless you remove the power steering pump.

The hardest part about reinstallation is getting the key on the pump shaft lined up with the slot in the gear; it should go together with very little resistance. If you have to pull it together using the nut on the shaft, you are probably smashing the key, which will result in your timing being off.

If the guy who took the "new" pump off didn't follow proper procedure, he didn't remove the funny 5-sided washer from the outside, front, bottom of the pump; if that's still bolted to the pump, it means that the pump should freely rotate. If the pump is freely rotating, then you made a mistake by rotating it, and have a 50-50 shot of getting it on the engine correctly.

If he did follow proper procedure by taking the washer off, running down the bolt and wiring the washer to the pump, it means that the pump is timed at #1 TDC, but then you have to make sure that you put the washer back on the pump before cranking the engine or else you will break it.
 

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The pump is keyed to the drive gear. Only goes on one way. There isn't any other way to install it. Turn the pump any way you like. Just don't turn (jiggle) the gear out of time with the cam gear.

It is said to rotate the engine to TDC #1 but anyone unsuspecting who has done this knows full well that the key has an opportunity to slide out and down in the engine.

Rotate the engine to position the key/keyway to about 1:00 position. It will not matter what cylinder is where. Again, the pump is keyed.

Be absolutely certain to have the pump drive shaft and the I.D. of the gear absolutely free, I said FREE of any oil residue, of any sort or type. The interference fit holds the two pieces from slipping NOT, I said NOT the key. Use a brake parts cleaner or electronics parts cleaner. Leave no residue.

Torque to proper specs with a touch of light oil on the pumps drive shaft threads. Threads only. Get it?

Oh, and leave the two puller bolts in the hub of that drive gear. Thata way, you can wiggle the pump onto the studs and at the same time move the drive gear SLIGHTLY around to mesh the two.
 

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You can't get the gear 360 degrees off?

Pump spins at crankshaft speed, correct?
 

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I'm having a disconnect as to how the cam plate causes three reciprocations per revolution, while the rotor aligns with six cylinders per revolution.

Please help me. I'm definitely missing something major.
 

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Ah, I get it now. The camplate causes six reciprocations per revolution because it has six bumps.

So it does move at camshaft speed. So I was entirely wrong.

So what is the point of the stupid 5-sided washer?
 

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Ah, I get it now. The camplate causes six reciprocations per revolution because it has six bumps.

So it does move at camshaft speed. So I was entirely wrong.

So what is the point of the stupid 5-sided washer?
mass confusion, i'm sure of it:hehe:
 

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The five sided washer? .............I'm thinking on that.............

What is the technical name?

I can't picture what you are refering to.
 

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The FSM refers to it as a "special 5-sided washer".

The part that fits on the bottom, front, outside of the pump, underneath the shaft that locks the pump.



The thing on the pump to the very bottom left of the picture that is not the KSB, underneath the mounting bolt.
 

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Nothing if you know how the pump works, outside of the "shim" it provides for the lock bolt to tighten against.

Seriously, I'm not attempting to offend anyone. My opinion is the same at the pump shop I once spoke with. It was called PDR in Oh! Canada and I was told the following; Quote"The lock bolt and washer serves no purpose" ........ "For the people who are an about having everything just right, it is used to to retain the exact pump time when a pump is removed and reinstalled." end quote.

I don't use it other than to "plug that hole"

If the washer wasn't there, the end of that bolt would thread into/against the pumps drive shaft. You could use a washer if you'd like.

The hole there is to wire tie it to the KSB tube, when the bolt is threaded in all the way to lock the shaft.
 
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