Need Help EMP proofing 12v Dodge Cummins

If you are concerned about EMP's, then don't get automatics. All the auto's from '94 and up require the PCM to function properly. The '94-'95 not as much, but they still use it. The alternator, AC, CC, gauges, grid heaters and several other things are controlled by the PCM also. I would go with a '94-'95, install manual shutdown cable, wire in external regulator for alternator, install switches for overdrive and converter lockup, wire in second push button start switch and install all manual guages (oil pressure, water temp, volt gauge or amp and aftermarket fuel level like a marine type. This would give you everything you have to have to work and bypass the PCM. If you have a manual trans, then of course you wouldn't have to worry with the switches for the automatic. The only things you would lose without the PCM now is speedo, tach and some other not absolutely necessary things. If you live where it is cold, then I would also put grid heater relays on a momentary on switch so the cold Cummins will crank a little easier. Go to top of page and do a search on "adapter plate" and you will find links to distributors who sell an adapter to mount the Cummins to almost any trans you can think of. Be careful of the trans, since this Cummins has more torque than any stock engine ever put in a '60's truck. You're really going to want to stick with a trans designed for the torque of an engine like the Cummins. Your best bet would be to find a truck that has been wrecked and pull the complete drivetrain all the way down to the axles. Unless your PowereWagon came with military axles, they won't hold the torque either. If you have a welder, torch, a saw and couple of other items including some cash, the Cummins can be put in anything.

Reply to 12valveterror...An EMP event can be generated in at least 3 methods: 1) CME (coronal mass ejection) which is a massive solar blast storm off the sun(one hit Canada in the 90's); 2) HAARP (high altitude atmospheric radio pulse) stealth electronic weapon facility in Alaska) which reputedly caused earthquakes; 3) Detonation of satellite borne nuclear war head, if detonated 200 miles above mid-America
would knock the entire US power grid. A great new book written by William Forstchen is titled, One Second After. If you read that book, about HAARP and sun generated electromagnetic storms, you may agree with us about the three headed threat of this monster. He who is prepared doesn't get scared. That is a reason we have started our online self-reliance products preparedness store, Emergency Preparedness Supplies & Kits - Prepare For An Emergency - SOS General Store and our local community self- reliance group. There is a new blogforum for it which does not have a whole lot up yet, but growing daily since we put it up this past week, BSOSCBlog.com Forum • Index page. Hey, this may be a great trade-off. You guys can teach us about EMP proofing these Cummins Dodges and we may can teach you about self-reliance preparedness. Thanks again...Jim

Reply to wcuhillbilly: Thanks for the info, but it zoomed right over my dumb head! We have avoided the 24v trucks because we were told they have an electronic injection pump, but you say to P-pump them. What is that and how do you go about the conversion? One of our Cummins Dodges is a 2007 model we figured we would sell and get a '98. Naw, we don't think you're expressing paranoia about the civil breakdown after an EMP event and yes, we have horses. We are in a safe area of the country, so we will be able to keep driving. Knowing fuel supplies would be disrupted, we are working on wood gasifiers and hydrogen generators. We are working on the first prototype gasifier now and will look forward to seeing how the Cummins runs on the wood gas, knowing there will be some power decrease. We have a Cummins backup generator also. We plan on being able to run it on woodgas when no diesel fuel as we will probably no longer be able to produce biodiesel. Some may scoff at this preparedness effort as expressed by another poster, which is fine as they are certainly entitled to their opinion. We would rather be prepared to run and fuel our vehicles, produce our own food, fuel and electrical energy, caring not if we never had to use it because it saves a bunch in normal cost of living, yet is in place in case there is a catastrophic event. To those trying to be helpful, thanks so very much, because as you can tell from my tinhorn replies, we need all the help we can get in learning everything necessary in EMP proofing vehicles. Likewise, we will share any helpful self-reliance preparedness info anyone would ask for. Some of our group members are living a equal lifestyle completely off-grid as most others of us living on the grid with no, little or partial off-grid capability. Thanks again, Jim

the 24 valve engines flow and burn better than the 12vs, the reason everyone likes the 12s is that yes they are non electric dependent and sensorless, the "P-Pump" means to take a 24v engine and remove the electronic VP44 injection pump, and the ECM (engine Control Module) and replace the Injection pump with a P-7100 Bosch injection pump, or(wilder conversion ) a Sigma pump (european bosch inline injection pump) the P-7100 is used on the 12v from (I think)94-97, 98-2002 was the 24v with the VP44 electric injection pump. the conversion, (in short,)(there is a thread on this in the 98.5-02 pages of this site) basically involves, using the front cover off a 12v and installing it on a 24v, then using the P-7100 injection pump off the 12v, custom or made injection lines, and a camshaft that is ground to the tolorances and specs of the 24v, being supplied with the timing of the P7100. (tappets are a little differant thus the special cam....) another note, if your running a custom cam like mentioned above,,,, a lobe can be cut on the cam to utilize the mechanical fuel lift pump hole that was retained on the 24v block. thus you would then be able to use a mechanical lift pump to pump fuel from the tank to the injection pump and not be reliant upon an aftermarket electric fuel pump. with the p7100 conversion, the ECM and the sensors are now null and void.....you need 12v to open the fuel solonoid on the p7100 just as you do now with your afor mentioned 96 dodge.... the killer for your set up is the Auto trans.... while the world is going to the auto, this woods rat is still a die hard stick person. you can also keep an eye out for the Cummins to GM adapters found on the tail of the 4BTs ( the 4cylinder version of the 5.9 6BT engines) found in Frito-Lay and Doritos bread trucks, this adapter housing will made up to the back of the 12/24v Cummins engines and allow you to bolt up to a GM auto, or Manual (granted you will have to work out the the clutch and flywheel, but I have seen it done) as the NV4500 and the NV5600 manual trans, are just not as tough as the old rock crusher Muncie granny 4spds in the long haul...... I am a chevy repower as my Signiture says, I took a 2001 24v with all the electronics, and weeded out what I didnt want and wired up what I did. thus ive been smoken down the road for 30,000miles and cross country hauling 20k once. if you can think it,,,,someone has probly done it.... I like being an independent cuss myself and self sufficiant but this does sound a bit like too many episodes of Jericho.