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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I purchased a 2015 ram3500 (SRW) with the G56 tranny with 30K miles on it and after driving it home the CEL came on. It has been deleted and tuned and has a 4in exhaust with only a muffler. The turbo codes of death came on showing P003A, P0046, and P00AF - the codes none of us want. I tried getting the dealer that I purchased it from to help but they simply told me to load the stock tune back and then reload the delete tunes which I did and it kept the CEL off for about 15 miles. They say it wasn't on when I purchase the truck and that they didn't know about it and I purchased the truck "as is - with no warranty". I reached out to find out who did the tunes and it was Diesel Performance Of Texas who sent me updated tunes and suggested I updated my MM3 tuner which I did and reloaded the new tunes. The truck ran better at first for about 15 miles and then the CEL came back which confirms I have a bad turbo. The Exhaust brake quits working and then the turbo becomes super laggy and doesn't want to boost very easily.

I'm at the point of replacing the stock turbo now. I of course want to go bigger and better but do plan to stay on stock fuel, stock head studs, and injectors for now and don't plan on replacing the clutch until it needs it but I can of course control my right foot to make it last. Below are some of the options I've been considering. I have owned a 12V with a big single so some lag is okay as I personally prefer the big single spool up.

TRUCK USAGE:
-Daily driver - fun truck to haul small boat and small trailer on occasion.

1.2nd gen swap with S467 turbo - Is this going too big?
-Costs the most but has plenty of room to grow.

2. 2nd gen swap with S300 series turbo. Is this too small?
-Price is slightly cheaper but I've read the S300 series are too small really.

3. BD Iron horn (keeps turbo in stock location but has different manifold) - Only has the S300 series turbos available. Is this too small?
-Price is about 1K cheaper than 2nd gen swap kit.

4. Fleece Cheetah VGT turbo.
-About as much as a 2nd gen swap kit and has the VGT system which is what causes the factory turbo to fail anyways. I've read many mixed reviews and some say its great and some say to stay far away. Any option?

Obviously budget is a concern and I want to be sure I don't go with something that I'll immediately need to add head studs and fuel mods. I don't mind doing these other mods but need to save due to budget restrictions.
 

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Sounds to me they knowingly decieved you, take action against them. They had to know it was bad.

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If it was purchased as is, the dealer is under no obligation to take the vehicle back or repair. They might not know, it could have been traded in that way, sounds to me like it takes 15 miles or so for it to throw codes. You would have to prove that they knew and knowingly deceived you by not disclosing.
 

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If it was purchased as is, the dealer is under no obligation to take the vehicle back or repair. They might not know, it could have been traded in that way, sounds to me like it takes 15 miles or so for it to throw codes. You would have to prove that they knew and knowingly deceived you by not disclosing.
He has 3 days here, even if sold without warranty. Anyway if it takes 15 miles, if he drove a test drive for about 10 then got 5, they reset it right away. Almost all of those places drive the vehicle once. The place I bought mine sold mine to me and I knew the u joints were shot and brought it up to them, they told me they wouldn't fix it before I bought it. I bought it and then told them to fix it or they will be taking the truck back in 2 days. They have no idea how much value they could lose in 2 days so they fixed them.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He has 3 days here, even if sold without warranty. Anyway if it takes 15 miles, if he drove a test drive for about 10 then got 5, they reset it right away. Almost all of those places drive the vehicle once. The place I bought mine sold mine to me and I knew the u joints were shot and brought it up to them, they told me they wouldn't fix it before I bought it. I bought it and then told them to fix it or they will be taking the truck back in 2 days. They have no idea how much value they could lose in 2 days so they fixed them.

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Trust me I tried to get them to do fix it but they say that is wasn't like that when they had it so it must have been something I did and since I signed the 'sold as is - no warranty' document they have no obligation to fix it at least in NC. Everything else on the truck checks out to be fine and that's the only reason I'm okay with spending them money to fix it and I really don't have a choice at this point.
 

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Trust me I tried to get them to do fix it but they say that is wasn't like that when they had it so it must have been something I did and since I signed the 'sold as is - no warranty' document they have no obligation to fix it at least in NC. Everything else on the truck checks out to be fine and that's the only reason I'm okay with spending them money to fix it and I really don't have a choice at this point.
Back to the topic, I love the vnt holset has designed and from an engineering standpoint, the best turbo on the market. Mine has over 200k miles on it. I would say go with the he451, that's what I will be going with when injectors and studs go in.
I personally have talked to my friends in the Cummins engineering dept, we have concluded at this point, tuning seems to be the most common denominator. Go with what you want, anything we say here is opinion and it will depend greatly on goals and what the use of the truck is.

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He has 3 days here, even if sold without warranty. Anyway if it takes 15 miles, if he drove a test drive for about 10 then got 5, they reset it right away. Almost all of those places drive the vehicle once. The place I bought mine sold mine to me and I knew the u joints were shot and brought it up to them, they told me they wouldn't fix it before I bought it. I bought it and then told them to fix it or they will be taking the truck back in 2 days. They have no idea how much value they could lose in 2 days so they fixed them.

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https://www.michigan.gov/ag/0,4534,7-359-81903_20942-44718--,00.html

show me the words where it states that applies to autos
 
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https://www.michigan.gov/ag/0,4534,7-359-81903_20942-44718--,00.html

show me the words where it states that applies to autos
I've got the paperwork at home that all 4 times I bought a vehicle it stated, 3 days starting from the purchase date. I used it on all 4 vehicles, that's why I know it's in the contract. All vehicles were as is, no warranty. It isn't in the legislation, but buying from 4 dealers, 2 being 400 miles apart with the same clause, there must be a reason. Dealers wouldn't fix broken items such as u joints, cruise, transmission mount and one had a spun bearing.

Here's another thought, the truck failed to meet emissions compliance, they sold you a non compliant truck and by federal law, they cannot sell it.

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Tuning is the common denominator of what? I didn't understand the point here. Thanks for the clarification.
Chris

I personally have talked to my friends in the Cummins engineering dept, we have concluded at this point, tuning seems to be the most common denominator. Go with what you want, anything we say here is opinion and it will depend greatly on goals and what the use of the truck is.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does anyone know how long I can go on the stock turbo throwing the CEL and P003A, P0046, and P00AF codes before I'll see damage or complete failure? I'm really not prepared to purchase a turbo at the moment but if I have to then I'll have to. The only functionality that's missing currently is the exhaust brake when the CEL comes on. If I clear the codes then it works but with the exhaust brake on it definitely makes the CEL come on way faster than without the exhaust brake turned on. Any advice on if I should bite the bullet and buy a turbo sooner than later? Or am I good to wait it out until tax season or so? Thanks!
 

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Tuning is the common denominator of what? I didn't understand the point here. Thanks for the clarification.
Chris
Failures, but stock trucks failing do exist, most within warranty. We are also currently working to see why they are failing, whether it be idle times, lack of temperature or driving conditions. Idling doesn't seem to kill them early, but not driving the truck or lack of temperature (load) we have a theory on, but it isn't tested yet. I'm trying to gather data from people with failures, we have one failed (according to previous owner) turbos that seem to be working fine once we calibrated them. We have yet to have a complete failure of the actuator system, it tends to be just the wedge gear getting out of position and getting stuck.

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Interesting. My actuator failed and was replaced in December. I had some trouble with it in the spring - making a weird noise. Once I deleted and installed the exhaust, my truck sounded like a circular saw. I had my turbo rebuilt, and with the actuator not being aligned, the sound went away. Once we aligned the actuator, it started making the noise again. I wonder too if it is tune related. I am running Anarchy tunes, and have had a number of issues, but to be fair, I am still working through boost issues with the truck, and at this point, I cannot point it towards the tune.
Chris
 

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Interesting. My actuator failed and was replaced in December. I had some trouble with it in the spring - making a weird noise. Once I deleted and installed the exhaust, my truck sounded like a circular saw. I had my turbo rebuilt, and with the actuator not being aligned, the sound went away. Once we aligned the actuator, it started making the noise again. I wonder too if it is tune related. I am running Anarchy tunes, and have had a number of issues, but to be fair, I am still working through boost issues with the truck, and at this point, I cannot point it towards the tune.
Chris
What boost issues are you running into? Who aligned the actuator? Circular saw sounds like a blade rubbing/ bad bearing, could be unbalanced.

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Dealer did the actuator replacement, and also did the alignment/calibration this last week. The boost issue pulls a P0106 code and oscillates from high to low - the actual numbers aren't important, but it is hunting. When I had the turbo rebuilt, the gentleman who rebuilt it said there was no evidence of rubbing. It only makes the noise when it is first started in the morning. Once it is warmed up, it no longer makes the noise.
Chris
 

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Dealer did the actuator replacement, and also did the alignment/calibration this last week. The boost issue pulls a P0106 code and oscillates from high to low - the actual numbers aren't important, but it is hunting. When I had the turbo rebuilt, the gentleman who rebuilt it said there was no evidence of rubbing. It only makes the noise when it is first started in the morning. Once it is warmed up, it no longer makes the noise.
Chris
P0106 is MAP performance, replace the sensor. These trucks are HIGHLY INTEGRATED, one little thing throws five other items off. It may not be that sensor, but it's a good place to start.

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I understand that's what the code says, but when researched, it turns out that it is a "boost is not what I expected" error. Which could be one of the other sensors as well, and is frequently associated with the Turbo Speed Sensor more often than the MAP Sensor. I believe mine may be related to an exhaust pressure leak. I'll be leak testing the exhaust this weekend to see where I am leaking around the manifold and turbo.
 

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I understand that's what the code says, but when researched, it turns out that it is a "boost is not what I expected" error. Which could be one of the other sensors as well, and is frequently associated with the Turbo Speed Sensor more often than the MAP Sensor. I believe mine may be related to an exhaust pressure leak. I'll be leak testing the exhaust this weekend to see where I am leaking around the manifold and turbo.
There also is a turbo speed sensor code, but yes this can also be a culprit. When my speed sensor went out, I didn't have any turbo issues, it ran and functioned normally other than a cel.

I will say the Ebay one for 20 bones was a factory sensor new. Look around, don't pay the outrageous amount all these companies are charging.

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