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Nate's '01 QCSB Build Thread

33311 Views 172 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  Mike Holmen, 
GonOvr
3
Well guys, I have been pricing out parts, asking questions, and researching exactly what I want.

Last night began the pursuit of a towing monster. currently my truck has 122k and some change on it. Needs a rear main to fix the only leak it has. I have been on here everyday for the past 4-5 months watching, reading, and asking some questions along the way.

I had it up for sale a little while ago and since some :spank:-hat decided to threaten my wife, I decided nothing would happen until I got home. Since the truck is paid for and it really doesn't cost me anything except for a couple bucks for insurance. I decided to build it to strictly tow and run into town every now and again. Now I'm not building a sled or drag truck. This will be strictly 15-20k towing maybe more depending on the job or helping a buddy out.

It will have by the end of summer:
Twins (BD's super B twins, because I can and the warranty)
New VP and LP (SO & fass titanium 150)
Injectors (DAP 125s or 150s, leanin towards 125s)
Head Studs
Intercooler (TBD)
Intake Horn (TBD)
Dual Disc (valair's new quiet organic dual disc w/ hydraulics)
Shocks (Bilstein 5100's)
Air bags (Air lifts auto level system)

Im sure other things will pop up along the way.

The Canvas




I will be updating this thread as items get installed. I am having someone do the clutch and rear main due to me being in Kuwait and the warranty if something goes wrong. Everything else will be installed by myself and documented.

I spoke with Nick at valair last night for a bit and we both were on the same page as far as clutches. I didn't want the typical chatter of duals but felt it was the best route over all. He asked me about running their new quiet dual disc that has a strapped floater or something along those lines. I said sure, it was the same price as the regular version. I asked about the hydraulics and he told me the stock stuff would hold but for piece of mind and adjust-ability, go with the new hydros so i did. Should be at the house on Wed!
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jlbayes
just curious but why the new vp? intake horn will gain you nothing. an intercooler is a large un-need expense imo. get the "150hp" injectors.
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jmd025
jlbayes said:
just curious but why the new vp? intake horn will gain you nothing. an intercooler is a large un-need expense imo. get the "150hp" injectors.
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:agree2: with all of this
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GonOvr
stock lp went south and starved the vp

cooler charge = cooler egts may not be much but every little bit is worth it to me.

intake horn is just for less restriction, air flows a lot better without angles; The passenger side of the engine bay doesn't have to have all the glory; I can afford to.

If you saw my other projects you would know i tend to go a little over the top.

Please explain the reasoning for 150's, i don't care to roll coal anymore and i don't want any haze at idle either. I want to keep EGTs as low as possible. I figured 125's would be a sweet spot for not too much and not too little. :confused013:
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jmd025
from experience the Intercooler is not needed for what you want to accomplish
from experience the air horn is not needed for what you want to accomplish
and from experince the smaller injectors will not spool a set of twins as well


just trying to help you save some money and be happy with the setup.

The IC and Horn are cool if you want them, but they arent needed , neither will be a restriction at the level youll be at...or actually a much higher level

Edit: with hx35/s475 twins , 7x.010s (150s, lol) and stock IC and Horn, i was practically smokeless, towed like a dream, and EGTs maxed at 1250-1300 on the street and at 1100 on the dyno , where it made 500hp/1000 ft lbs on my "towing" setup. Quality injectors bieng key to all this
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jlbayes
josh hit the nail on the head as well. the intake horn will gain you nothing. mulitiple threads about them have been discussed in length. a good set of "150s" should be smoke free and not haze at idle. don't buy into the marketing of the products you read about in magaizines or on parts websites. they are there to sell a product. the "150s" seem to be the sweet spot as far as power and temps go.
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GonOvr
My main concern is egts first of foremost, then power. I don't want to over feed the twins either, I know 150s isn't an enormous amount of fuel for twins and is probably perfect. The fact is almost everyone posts about hp numbers and never mention egts to get there. I think some guys just get a little too carried away on injectors and I'm not trying to do that. I'm a firm believer in doing something right the first time. If 150s are the way to go, then I will go that route. Either way if I don't like them I can swap them out and try again. It just goes against the first time statement.
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jmd025
i run a MUCH larger injector now and have no EGT issues. Like i said, trying to help. When i first got started with all this a guy told me go straight to 150s and dont look back, I didn't but i should have, because he was right. IMO with the stock ECm fueling parameters, these trucks could have come from the factory with 7x.010s.
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Cityfun95
nice looking truck! suscribed
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GonOvr
Alright, alright you twisted my arm enough. 150s it is. What would the harm in 125s be besides a slower light?
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eforbes
Well just a little help, i like your truck(wish it was a LB) but i have gone the intake horn route and wasted my money, its alot of money to spend just so it looks cool. Alot of twin runners use the stock air horn and believe it or not alot of 3rd gen guys are looking for our intake horns because the have little to no restriction like the new ones have. And you will not want to run that oiled filter on your new turbos, im sure it may be all through your cooler already(the oil i mean.)
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GonOvr
Yea it came with the truck unfortunately. I'll be running a dry filter on the twins. When I pull it apart I'm going to check to see how bad the previous owner oiled it. If its bad enough it's just one more reason for an aftermarket one. Yes I could clean it but I'm OCD on some things and it would just bother me.
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Headcase98002
I have a BD intercooler and saw no results. Don't waste your money.
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sir troughs a lot
Whoa, that's a good looking truck!
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Ford_Cummins
Have you talked to Jonny at Stainless Diesel about turbos? If not I would call and bend his ear for a minute, not that BD's aren't good, there is better out there.
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jlbayes
jmd025 said:
i run a MUCH larger injector now and have no EGT issues. Like i said, trying to help. When i first got started with all this a guy told me go straight to 150s and dont look back, I didn't but i should have, because he was right. IMO with the stock ECm fueling parameters, these trucks could have come from the factory with 7x.010s.
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7x.010s were the first big purchase i made after i bought an air dog. i agree that they should have been in the trucks from the factory. i can't remember if it was one of your threads or brokedowns but it was the reason i went with the 7x.010s instead of a smaller size.
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GonOvr
3
Presents for ME!





Sent from my fat finger dialing wand.
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R
Intecooler

Several people have posted the limited benefit of an aftermarket intercooler and if the reason is HP gains then I would agree unless you want to make huge HP and money is no object. However from personal experience I can say it makes a significant (-200 Degree) difference in EGT temps when hauling/towing. I NEVER have to worry about my EGT's since putting one in and I'm not "self justifying" the cost. They aren't cheap, and I would never recommend one to someone who doesn't haul/tow a lot but if you do, it does give a piece of mind. When hauling my camper/boat during the summer it is one less thing to worry about. Yah, I could back out of it until I get over the hill or turn my Quad down, but now I don't have to. There are many other simple things to do to uncork the air flow and it all helps a little but the intercooler made the biggest improvement. Is it the most cost effective mod? Probably not. I didn't do any of it to gain more power, just run cooler. I've seen Alco's with the exhaust valves burnt out of the heads after 1-2 months from continuous/long term egt's of 1,100-1,200 degrees. The cooler the better, I say. I'm sure many will disagree and that's why we have the forum.
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GonOvr
Yea, I'm not adding it for power at all. I just want it to run as cool as possible. I'm not even gonna crank the twins up 40-45 psi max. I always hear hp this and hp that. I'm about driving and towing and that's it. What ever setup will get me to where I'm going the fastest and reliably is what I'll go with. Now I take everyone's suggestions, experience and knowledge to heart. I care about reliability and low egts, simple as that. I used to have a 6.7 mega cab and never really trusted it due to the head gasket failure rate. I don't want to worry about the truck every 5 sec. when I'm going somewhere.


Sent from my fat finger dialing wand.
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BlackedOut02
So to keep egt's low your going to run twins at 40-45psi??

Your looking for flat out reliability, especialy while towing. Correct?? What were these trucks made for? Id leave it close stock.
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