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Discussion Starter #1
I’d wanted a 4wd first gen Cummins for quite a while but living in the UK I’d accepted I’d never own one.
We have a few American trucks over here, most are ½ ton gas trucks. There’s a few 2nd, 3rd and 4th gen Cummins and any older diesels are usually Fords. The only first gen dodges I’ve ever seen over here are D250, D350 diesels or W150 gas.
By complete chance I found my perfect spec W250 parked up in a timber yard only about 10 miles from my house in September 2017.




I went to talk to the guy and he told me it wasn’t for sale but was happy to show me it and talk for hours, it was a 92 Texas truck, 1 US owner and then he imported it back in 2003 I think. He ran it as his daily up until 2014 when it was getting a bit tired. He replaced it with a 2006 Chevy Duramax and planned on restoring the first gen one day but he was on with a few other projects, 40’s hot rod and 49 Chevy I think.
I left him my number if he ever changed his mind, left and forgot about it.
Just 3 weeks later he called me and said he realised he’ll never get round to restoring it and wanted it to go to a good home so he’d sell it, so we did a deal.



Cleaned up quite nice.







Condition wise it was ok for the year. Mileage read 260k if I recall but he said it stopped clocking up a while ago so will be considerably more.
Frame was very rusty, but fairly solid and hopefully wouldn’t need any welding. It had been painted a few years before but must not have been prepped very well. The bed seemed ok but had some lacquer peel, the tailgate wasn’t good. The cab was the worst though, driver’s side inner and outer rockers were rotten and both foot wells. Roof was peeling/bubbling. Driver’s fender was rotten and passenger was dented. Both inner fenders weren’t good but I may be able to rescue them. Every bush and ball joint and half of the UJ’s on it were trash.



 
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The plan with this truck was to make it tidy but not so nice that I wouldn’t want to drive it. I didn’t want to paint the full truck, only what needed it. I wanted it to be totally rust free and not have to worry about rust ever again with it, it’ll be an occasional driver when it’s done. I wanted it to look original but be lifted slightly with some decent sized mud tyres. I wanted a bit more power but had no plans to touch the transmission so I’d settle with intake, exhaust and mild pump work. He’d had the tranny rebuilt a few years ago but just with standard parts.
It sat for about a year before I got chance to touch it, first removing the bed and stripping the front end.











I then realised I better do some shopping.
I didn’t want waiting for parts to hold me up so without been very deep into the project and having never worked on anything like this before I had to figure out everything I was going need and order it all in one order before I needed it. I knew I wouldn’t account for everything but I tried my best. One upside was I wouldn’t have any issue with getting engine parts; 6BT’s were built over here and put into DAF 45’s in the 90’s so there’s loads of used parts about and new parts easily available off the shelf.
I ended up spending $4000 on parts online, then I bought some space in a container leaving Miami. So I shipped everything there and 6 weeks later everything arrived (apart from a few small items that were delivered late and missed the ship so will have to come in a later container)
Finding the best value items was important as I had an additional $2500 to pay in shipping and taxes once it all arrived over here.
This pile (minus 2 boxes that weren’t pictured) set me back $6500.



Instead of listing everything I bought I’ll just show things as I fit them, these are the wheels I ended up getting though. 16 x 8 polished Ultra’s with a -6 offset. Hopefully these will give me a fitment with the edge of tyre level with the edge of the fender, I’m wanting the tyres stuck out as much as possible without them protruding the body. This is illegal over here and I’ve been pulled over by the police once in the past for it and just got a warning but they can make you either change the wheels or fit fender flares which I don’t want to do.

 

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Nice, I enjoy seeing stuff like this. I'm in. This will be great to follow. I absolutely love my truck with mild pump tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Next I lifted the cab off, at a later date I’ll be making a frame that the cab fixes to so it can be moved easily with a forklift and also mountable to a spit so the welding can be done better/easier






I pulled the engine, transmission and transfer box in one. I was really impressed with the condition of the turbo, I presume it’s original and taking the mileage into account it’s super tight. I’ve pulled a lot of turbo’s before and they always have some play or end float but this has nothing.






Next I dropped the tank, I was nervous as I knew if anywhere would need welding it would be inside the frame blocked by the tank. I think there must be a fault with the level float or the wiring as the gauge said an empty tank but think thing was heavy as! Felt half full! The frame was the worst behind the tank but still not too bad.



Although I should have been focusing on doing the dirty boring jobs I decided to order some tyres and get them mounted. I went for Cooper Discoverer STT Pro mud terrains – 315/75R16. These work out at 35 x 12.5. I chose these because I thought 35” was a good compromise and the Cooper’s were the cheapest of the reputable brands.





Doing shiny bits definitely motivates me to get the dirty jobs done.
While the axles were still on I pulled the frame outside to wash it off, an hour and a half with the heat turned up on the pressure washer and a rotating nozzle cleaned everything up. I’ll give it another quick wash when it’s stripped bare.




That brings me up to date. I’ll probably next update when I’ve blasted the frame, I’ll be doing it outside so just need to wait for a day where it isn’t raining and the temperatures above freezing for getting some primer on it the same day. Might be a while as February in England it’s usually raining or snowing and if it isn’t then it’s too cold to be painting as none of our sheds are heated.
 

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Im jealous. Too busy and broke to ever get anything actually done on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got chance this morning to strip everything off the frame. There were a lot of pieces I didn't even realise were removable before I washed it off because there was so much dirt and rust covering up the nuts.
I went round with the wire wheel on the grinder cleaning all the threads up then oiled everything so nearly all the nuts came undone. The only 2 that snapped off were on a brake line bracket.
I did have to break the grinder and the slitting disc out for the front bolt on the front drivers side leaf spring as it was seized into the centre of the bush.
When I had it stripped bare I took it back outside, flipper it upside down and gave it all another good wash off.







Next I'll burn the 2 front leaf spring bushes out of the frame then it'll be shot blasting time.
 

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Congrats on finding the truck so close to home!! I know we over here take for granted the ability to find the truck we want and then get all the parts fairly easily.....you sure have a lot of extra costs and effort to get the parts you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found a good sized crack across the top of the frame next to where the steering box mounts, I'll weld this up and grind it back after blasting.



So after about 5.5 hours of blasting I was happy with how I'd got the frame to. What a s**t job shot blasting is.





First it got 2 coats of zinc phosphate primer





Then 1 thick coat of gloss black enamel paint






This isn't all it'll be getting, there will be more protection added to it soon.

Although a horrible job you've got to love the results blasting bring, here's some before and afters of the worst areas, inside the frame where the tank sat and the rear drives side spring mount.





 

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Nice job and looks amazing!

That crack by the steering box is very common, you might want to pick up one of the reproduction steering box braces to help stiffen that area.

Power Steering Brace

I have one on my crewcab and while I can't say for sure if it helps, I know for certain it ain't hurting anything by being there and the bit of peace of mind it gives is worth it. ;)
 
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I actually seen that crack on a friends 93. I posted a picture awhile back. He also purchased the same brace after he burned in the fracture.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice job and looks amazing!

That crack by the steering box is very common, you might want to pick up one of the reproduction steering box braces to help stiffen that area.

Power Steering Brace

I have one on my crewcab and while I can't say for sure if it helps, I know for certain it ain't hurting anything by being there and the bit of peace of mind it gives is worth it. ;)
I've not seen those before, thanks. I may make something similar and fit it on.
I've got some shiny parts from off road design that will involve me moving my steering box :wink2:
So with the box moved further back there should be less stress in that weak area anyway
 
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Nice work and thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing it come back to life!
 

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This is fantastic! You are doing such a great job as I am looking forward to seeing your progress. Keep up the good work.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I had another blasting session and got all the pieces I removed from the frame cleaned up then primed and painted them black.





I gave my new springs a quick coat of gloss black as they'd got a bit scratched and scuffed on their long journey.
I decided to go with Skyjacker 4" lift springs



Next I got everything bolted back onto the frame, I did away with all the old school imperial bolts and used all metric.




When it was all bolted together I went over everything with a Waxoil/underseal.
What I used is called Bodysafe, it's a thick tar like stuff that I just add a touch of thinners to then apply it liberally with a shutz gun






This stuff dries over night but it's tacky for up to a couple of weeks after depending on temperature. So I'm waiting until its a bit drier before I can do much more with the frame. I'd like to get the leafs on this week so they are out of the way and I can put the axle stands under them instead of onto the tacky frame.
 
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Sure go with the Metric stuff....not going to restored properly then....;):D
 
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Looking great....be better then new when your done!
 
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Sure go with the Metric stuff....not going to restored properly then....;):D
Haha before starting this project I had to buy a load of sockets and spanners (wrenches), instead of having whole numbers written on them denoting the nut size they fit they all have fractions written on them. I'm still yet to figure out their relevance.
Any job takes me longer as I can't just look at a bolt and know off hand what size it is like I do with metric so have to go to my tool box and grab a handful and bring them all to where i'm working.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looking great....be better then new when your done!
Thanks, the frame might be. Can't see the other parts been brought up to the same standard though
 

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Haha before starting this project I had to buy a load of sockets and spanners (wrenches), instead of having whole numbers written on them denoting the nut size they fit they all have fractions written on them. I'm still yet to figure out their relevance.
Any job takes me longer as I can't just look at a bolt and know off hand what size it is like I do with metric so have to go to my tool box and grab a handful and bring them all to where i'm working.
But at least when working on the cummins engine it's all metric bolts. ;) But I do understand, I look at a nut or bolt and say...that's a 3/8, 1/2 or 9/16, but then come back with appropriate wrenches and realize it's a 10mm, 13mm or 14/15mm. :D
 
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