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Discussion Starter #1
Hi - First, not disappointed at all with anything remotely to do with power, exhaust brake, transmission, adaptive cruise control. Those were awesome and no problems at all.

My first tow, its a 2019 3500 4x4 long bed with 20" OEM wheels and crapstone tires. I towed home a new 5th wheel (Keystone Cougar 364BHL which is probably in the 12-13K lbs range. had 2 full propane tanks, half full fresh water, two batteries, no other gear). I am using a Andersen Ultimate gooseneck setup.

What I was really disappointed with was how much 'tugging' i could feel on the back of the truck while driving. This wasn't from breaking, this was just rolling down the highway steady speed of 60mph. For those in the area, this from Grants Pass, OR down to Sacramento, so talking about 300+ miles of I-5.

I was ready to get out of the truck after just 200 miles. Dreading every time I hit a rough patch or going over a bridge etc. Tug. Tug. Tug.

I don't know if that's the hitch, if this is typical of a 5th wheel (never towed a fifth wheel before), but it really was fatiguing and not something I had expected to feel. Looking for any suggestions on what I might need to improve. Thank you for any advice offered.
 

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Pulling 13-14k 5er on my trailer with a 19 3500 and a goosebox. No chucking at all. Might be a hitch issue if I am honest. I know the Anderson fans will come out and scold me for it but going off my experience with my example the only real difference between my truck and yours is the hitch variable and I’m towing through some crappy roads and mountains.

Hope you find a solution though. That’s not fun.


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When I towed a fifth wheel with my 2500 using the Andersen I had a similar experience. I added some weight to the pin by adding to the fresh tank water (it was up front) and it took care of the majority of it. Also added airbags and that helped over dips with ect.
 

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I use an Andersen and I found that upgrading the trailer equalizers was the answer. As long as the top bit of the Andersen is torqued correctly then there can’t be play. It’s all machined. Also the adapter torqued correctly. The only other thing I have heard of is turning the offset adapter to change the distance of the truck tires and trailer tires at expansion joints can break the rhythm of the chucking.


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I had a similar bucking/ chucking experience when I had a 2500 and used the factory 5th wheel prep and the Mopar(Curt) hitch. On my dually, I got the BW slider hitch(no prep package) and I don't have any of that. I am not sure if that is your issue but the difference in the quality of the hitches is noticeable for me.
 

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Hi, I have 2019 mega cab SRW pulling a Montana 3950 fth wheel with a curt A25, I have no issues of bucking or jarring but did have those issues with my Q20 it was the jaw mechanism design, but no other issues with the hitch.
 

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Just need more pin weight, it is porpoising.


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Is your trailer level? If it is nose high, that can cause chucking like you are getting. I'm dealing with that right now. Mo/Ryde SRE 4000 equalizers are (hopefully) my answer. Supposedly they raise my 5er height by about 2.5 inches at the axles. Should put me close to level. If that isn't enough, I'll fill up the fresh water tank. That'll put some more weight on the front and bring it down a bit more.
 

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Hi, I have 2019 mega cab SRW pulling a Montana 3950 fth wheel with a curt A25, I have no issues of bucking or jarring but did have those issues with my Q20 it was the jaw mechanism design, but no other issues with the hitch.
I run a Curt A25 and have no issues. Love the hitch. Had it in my 04.5 2500 and now in the 2020 3500. Pulling a 12K trailer and 4K boat.

I think the older or perhaps even the current 20K Mopar hitches were/are Q series, the new 30K hitch is definitely an A-30.
 

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I just came over grants pass this weekend with my 39'' weekend warrior and the Anderson Hitch somewhere around 15-17k with the half full tanks and toys in the trailer. Didnt notice any bucking, ive gotten that feeling before when i had too little tongue weight in my gooseneck.

Sounds like the trailer is leaning back and putting weight on the rear axle instead of the truck, can you redistribute some weight in the trailer to being over the front?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Since posting this here and in a "RV" forum I've found a couple things:

  • the hitch actually shifted in the bed of the truck. No idea when this occurred but the hitch is no longer sitting square in the bed.
  • the ball height, where the trailer is connected to, is at the highest setting. i believe this could be a factor in having the trailer nose being a bit high.
  • the trailer literally has nothing other than what it was shipped from factory equipped.
I'm guessing those 3 things are not helping, and one of those is actually alarming to me - that the hitch literally shifted in the bed. i watched the installation (i have the 5th wheel prep setup), saw the hitch get torqued to 60lb/ft on the three bolts that connect the hitch to the turnover ball.

i will have to trust that the problem is likely a combination of those three things. i am also looking at maybe getting one of the 'airbag' pin setups as those seem to get a lot of positive feedback in eliminating a lot of trailer motion being passed to the truck.
 

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RE: the hitch moving. Get a rubber mat from Tractor Supply, Farm Fleet or similar. Cut a circular hole in the mat for the gooseneck ball. Install the hitch on top of the mat. That will keep the hitch from twisting. This is a recommendation from Andersen and its worked for me over the last 5 years. With a totally empty RV, your hitch weight is abnormally low. Once you get all your stuff packed into the RV, your weight (obviously) will increase and will certainly help alleviate the bucking. Lastly, you got to get your RV level front to back when hooked up. Hopefully you can do that by simply adjusting the ball height while still maintaining 6" or more of bed side rail clearance. You can gain additional clearance by turning the Andersen King Pin adapter 180 degrees which will place the RV closer to the back end of the truck. If you cannot get the RV level doing these simple things, then you might have to look at doing the Mor Ryde 4000 or adding a subframe to the RV to raise the rig up.
 

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While I don't have, nor have I used an Anderseon setup, the hitch should not have shifted at all. Its possible whomever did the install didn't check everything to ensure it was installed correctly. Does your truck have the factory prep kit?? if so, if you know anyone who has a Ram specific 5th wheel hitch, see if you can borrow it and do a test run using it instead of the Anderson. The inbox is the same, you'd just need to remove the adaptor. I agree with the others... It sound like the 5r is nose-high and lighter on the pin than it should be. Good Luck
 

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While I don't have, nor have I used an Anderseon setup, the hitch should not have shifted at all. Its possible whomever did the install didn't check everything to ensure it was installed correctly. Does your truck have the factory prep kit?? if so, if you know anyone who has a Ram specific 5th wheel hitch, see if you can borrow it and do a test run using it instead of the Anderson. The inbox is the same, you'd just need to remove the adaptor. I agree with the others... It sound like the 5r is nose-high and lighter on the pin than it should be. Good Luck
The Andersen WILL shift, even when torqued properly without a mat in most cases. The mat prevents scratching and shifting.
 

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Yep, the Andersen will shift on a painted bed. I used a mat in my previous 06, but it also doesn't shift on my current /16 w/factory bed liner.

Someone pointed out it can porpoise if not level. That makes sense as I never had any issue with my previous Wildcat fiver, but do a bit with this Jayco I recently got. Both are roughly the same weight. The Jayco definitely is nose high compared to the Wildcat and doesn't tow quite as smoothly as the Wildcat. In fact this week I plan on moving the pin box up 2" to help level it a bit. I currently have 9" of clearance to the bedrail, which is a ton.

Another thing about the shifting. I have a B&W ball kit for my factory 5th wheel prep and have used the tie downs as a failsafe to keep the hitch from moving. But honestly don't think it's needed with the bedliner.

 

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Jeff I have been towing with my Anderson for just over a year now. The one thing I have found is don’t do the final torque of the top bolt until you have the full weight of the camper on the hitch. After you have the weight on the hitch loosen your side bolts and retorque the top bolt to 65 ft-lbs, then torque the side bolts to 65 also. My movement stopped after doing it this way.
 

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Hi - First, not disappointed at all with anything remotely to do with power, exhaust brake, transmission, adaptive cruise control. Those were awesome and no problems at all.

My first tow, its a 2019 3500 4x4 long bed with 20" OEM wheels and crapstone tires. I towed home a new 5th wheel (Keystone Cougar 364BHL which is probably in the 12-13K lbs range. had 2 full propane tanks, half full fresh water, two batteries, no other gear). I am using a Andersen Ultimate gooseneck setup.

What I was really disappointed with was how much 'tugging' i could feel on the back of the truck while driving. This wasn't from breaking, this was just rolling down the highway steady speed of 60mph. For those in the area, this from Grants Pass, OR down to Sacramento, so talking about 300+ miles of I-5.

I was ready to get out of the truck after just 200 miles. Dreading every time I hit a rough patch or going over a bridge etc. Tug. Tug. Tug.

I don't know if that's the hitch, if this is typical of a 5th wheel (never towed a fifth wheel before), but it really was fatiguing and not something I had expected to feel. Looking for any suggestions on what I might need to improve. Thank you for any advice offered.
Man something doesn’t sound right. 2011 35004+4 gooseneck gen e 20000 lb on a triton 32 toy hauler. No chugging ever. Plenty of power, no brakes dragging Trang in tow/haul, exhaust brake on full time. Make sure none of the camper brakes are adjusted to tight or properly energized by your truck electrical system
 

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Jeff I have been towing with my Anderson for just over a year now. The one thing I have found is don’t do the final torque of the top bolt until you have the full weight of the camper on the hitch. After you have the weight on the hitch loosen your side bolts and retorque the top bolt to 65 ft-lbs, then torque the side bolts to 65 also. My movement stopped after doing it this way.
I have found that 75ft/lb unloaded is 65ft/lb loaded. I have been using an Andersen for three years and about 12k miles and nothing has ever moved. Both trucks have had bed liners though.


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