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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,



Roughly 10 months ago, I bought my 2003 Ram 2500. Originally the truck was my neighbor's truck when he bought it new in 03. For many years, I really liked this truck. One day, a conversation started between my neighbor (Curtis) and me about him getting a new truck. If I was interested in buying the truck from him? The entire truck is tired as it has over 500k miles on the same motor/transmission. I've known Curtis for a very long time and know that he takes care of his stuff. I asked him how much he wanted for his truck. He said not much as the truck has served him well and to just take over payments. He laughed and just gave it to me. This started the journey as I know it today. Our other neighbor down the way is John. John is our local business owner and owns and operates a Mechanic shop that primarily works on all types of diesel for almost 40 years. One day Curtis, John, and I were all carrying on, after hours, in John's shop. The topic of the truck came up and I asked John what it would cost to freshen up the truck. John said that means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. I blatantly said a total redo of the truck. The topic went way in-depth about what I intended to use it for. I explained that I needed to tow my 12,000 lb excavator. He said that the 5.9 24v would do that all day without any issues. The conversation ended shortly after.
About a month had passed and John said, you ready for redoing your truck? I said, sure, what is this going to cost? He said not much, There will be no labor cost. I said damn John, that's awesome. Bring your truck in and get to wrenching. I thought nothing at the time but John was not going to charge labor because I was the laborer. He had an old vacant stall just outside his large shop, where he used to work on vehicles years ago before the large shop was built. It was a large concrete pad with a lift. I was standing there overwhelmed, not knowing where to start. John walked up and I said to John, I'm not a mechanic. He said I know. You have everything here you'll need, tools a lot of Mechanic for advice. This started the journey of knowing my truck.
Brian is John's senior Mechanic and has worked at John's shop for over 30 years. Every once in a while Brian would show up and ask if there was anything I needed. He said to keep everything in order. All bolts and parts, take pictures as I go forward. This weekend I pulled the engine. The transmission and transfer case was on the next day. Started to tear the engine down. This was interesting, Once the engine was torn down took the block to a large parts washer. With Brian's careful eye. Chased the threads in all tapped holes. Remove all burrs and casting slag from the block interior. Tap the main galleries at the front of the block so that pipe plugs can be installed. Align hone or align the bore of the main caps and saddle. Machine the deck for straightness and proper surface finish. Bore cylinders. Hone the cylinder. Took the block to a large parts washer again. Used air gun to blow out all holes. Obviously, this is the shortlist. So much is involved in rebuilding an engine and only writing down from memory. The engine is now completely rebuilt and sitting in a corner of the shop covered. While I move on to the next step, Transmission.
Keep in mind that I'm not a Mechanic. So I ended up selling this old transmission and bought a new transmission, if I remember right, it is a 48RE 4-speed. Wanted to rebuild the transfer case. So, I bought a rebuild kit. This was not bad or difficult. Came with bearings, seals, a chain, and an input shaft. Had to send out the driveshafts sent out to be rebuilt. This didn't take too long and was back in about a week. Started on ring and pinion and new axle shafts. the rear is a 14 bolt 11.5" rear sorry I can't remember what the front is. I want to say it's 9.25" but I could be wrong. Anyways the gear ratio is 4.10. This was kind of difficult as brian was telling me to make sure the gaps were right. Used some sort of paint between the gears to determine the gap. I know for sure it would have been a total disaster if brian didn't do it for me. Bought new brakes calipers, brake lines, and a master cylinder with a booster. this was easy.
All this took approx. 4 months. To be honest, the majority of the time was waiting for parts. A lot of waiting time as the supply is either slow or low. Once all together, the day to start was nerve-racking, to say the least. The truck fired up and sounded pretty good. After about 30 sec of running Brian shut down the engine. He said we lost oil pressure but came back up as he shut it down. After, Brian said that it could be sending unit. The sending unit is new and not from the old engine. He said it was worth the effort to install another. I went to go buy another sending unit. Installed it, and started the engine. The engine fired up right away and sounded really good. This time as Brian and I were sitting in the cab the oil pressure dropped again. The engine was shut down again. Brian started to look for a short in the wiring and found nothing. Brian said to drop the oil pan and we'll inspect the oil pump/pickup tube. This was really frustrating as I thought all the T's were crossed. Dropped the pan, and on the pickup tube was a small crack close to the flange. Brian pulled a rod bearing and saw slight discoloration and said we should install a new set of bearings. Assembled everything back together, which took a little over a day. The day came to start the engine again. The engine popped off very nicely. Brian was bird-dogging the oil pressure gauge and quickly shut it down. His first words were, we lost it again. We called it a day and I was left scratching my head. A week had, and I showed up to see if I can find out what is going on with this engine. First I stopped by John's office to pick his brain about what he thinks it could be. John was sitting at his desk and greeted me with a smile. After some small talk, I asked, John, what do you think is wrong with my engine? He said, nothing, Brian worked on it yesterday and found that one bolt on the flange was dead-headed and allowing air to sneak in and lose prime, we both laughed. On my way out I saw Brian and thanked him, and that I owed him a beer.

Well, that's the story of my first Cummins. My 2003 2500 Ram has ~1500 miles on it now and is running strong. I will update this story as I continue to drive. I know I'll have a lot of questions and experiences.
 

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Great story. Looking forward to the second chapter.
Well done
 
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Welcome to the CF, we need pics of what sounds like your new pride and joy
 

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Hopefully all good now, and your using a real oil pressure gauge to monitor pressure , the factory oil gauge is a fake.

2003 FSM info

² Engine Oil Pressure Message - The instrument
cluster circuitry restricts the oil pressure gauge
needle operation in order to provide readings that
are consistent with customer expectations. Each time
the cluster receives a message from the PCM or ECM
indicating the engine oil pressure is above about 41
kPa (6 psi) the cluster holds the gauge needle at a
point near the middle increment within the normal
range on the gauge scale.
² Engine Oil Pressure Low Message - Each
time the cluster receives a message from the PCM or
ECM indicating the engine oil pressure is below
about 41 kPa (6 psi), the gauge needle is moved to
the graduation at the far left end of the gauge scale,
the check gauges indicator is illuminated, and a single
chime tone is generated. The gauge needle
remains at the left end of the gauge scale and the
check gauges indicator remains illuminated until the
cluster receives a message from the PCM or ECM
indicating that the engine oil pressure is above about
41 kPa (6 psi), or until the ignition switch is turned
to the Off position, whichever occurs first. The cluster
will only turn the check gauges indicator on in
response to an engine oil pressure low message if the
engine speed message is greater than zero.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hopefully all good now, and your using a real oil pressure gauge to monitor pressure , the factory oil gauge is a fake.

2003 FSM info

² Engine Oil Pressure Message - The instrument
cluster circuitry restricts the oil pressure gauge
needle operation in order to provide readings that
are consistent with customer expectations. Each time
the cluster receives a message from the PCM or ECM
indicating the engine oil pressure is above about 41
kPa (6 psi) the cluster holds the gauge needle at a
point near the middle increment within the normal
range on the gauge scale.
² Engine Oil Pressure Low Message - Each
time the cluster receives a message from the PCM or
ECM indicating the engine oil pressure is below
about 41 kPa (6 psi), the gauge needle is moved to
the graduation at the far left end of the gauge scale,
the check gauges indicator is illuminated, and a single
chime tone is generated. The gauge needle
remains at the left end of the gauge scale and the
check gauges indicator remains illuminated until the
cluster receives a message from the PCM or ECM
indicating that the engine oil pressure is above about
41 kPa (6 psi), or until the ignition switch is turned
to the Off position, whichever occurs first. The cluster
will only turn the check gauges indicator on in
response to an engine oil pressure low message if the
engine speed message is greater than zero.

Very helpful, Thanks for the heads up. If I remember right. A chime did sound off once the needle indicated the drop. The chime was not a constant sound as the oil pressure dropped and recovered shortly after. This occurred only a couple of times during the initial start-up. It was enough to concern Brian to shut down the motor. I do believe an external oil pressure gauge was used to verify the pressure drop. He mentioned to me something about the oil pressure gauge on the instrument cluster not being accurate and should only be used as a reference. Nonetheless, he did say to take the pan down because something is not right. That's when the crack was discovered at the weld on the pick-up tube. I remember talking to Brian about this and he said that he's never seen a pick-up tube crack at the weld.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Vehicle


My 2003 Ram 2500. She ain't much to look at but she runs strong. Tomorrow, Monday we got a job and will need to pull my excavator and dump trailer. This will be the first test with all of the work done to her. Total weight will be 25,800 lbs. Truck, trailer, and excavator. Don't know how much I'll need to pull with the dump trailer. Taken down a small retaining wall and a chimney along with some concrete. The dump trailer is 16ft. This should be a good test I'll post tomorrow how good or bad it goes.
 

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I’m sure the truck will not disappoint. My first dodge Cummins was a 2003 as well and was a great truck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, I'm back from the job I had today. I did have an issue with the truck during the return home. At a stop sign took off while pulling my excavator. The truck had no power. I didn't try to push it but was paying close attention to my instrument panel. Nothing was lit up and nothing looked out of the normal, just no power. Pulled off the road and lifted the hood. All this because I couldn't see or hear anything going wrong. I started to think my transmission had gone out but didn't smell the clutch burning. I was pulling, what I felt was heavy. But the truck seemed to handle it well. Got back in the truck and sat a little, wondering if I should press the issue. When I saw a small parking lot at a church down the road. I thought I'd park in that parking lot and call a friend. Took off, It took off normally, with a lot of power. I was roughly 5 miles from home. Decided to try my luck and make it home. The truck made it without any issues.

I have an OBD-II reader and plugged it in to see if there was anything I could see. No check engine light was on but know that sometimes faults occur without triggering the check engine light. The fault code was P0234, which is generic for turbo over boost. I do what every shade tree mechanic does, Google it. Seem like it's a common occurrence when pushing the engine. Basically, The stock turbo has a limit of boost, and if the turbo runs beyond a certain boost pressure for an extended amount of time it basically goes into a limp mode. Suggestions are to replace the wastegate and to check the lever to the wastegate and see if it's hanging up. The reason why once I took off again it ran normally and was able to make it home. As I search, this forum for a fix to my issue. A lot of suggestions for this very problem. But I wanted to go over the chain of events before working on this issue.

When I was hauling my excavator, what I noticed during towing was. Extremely high RPM's at 55mph. My tach read ~2400 RPMs. In my opinion, this is extremely high. I contribute it to my gears in the truck, which are 4.10. Now 55mph is not fast as the speed limit on that road is 75mph. Lol just imagine the amount of traffic behind me, no passing lane for miles. My OD was turned off. I was told to run with it off while towing heavy. I do believe this to be true to a certain point. But looking for advice from more experienced owners who might have a better idea of my situation. Me, I think driving with the OD off on roads where there are ups and downs and stop a goes and that power is needed to make it smooth. But on the roads that require higher speeds turning on the OD lays down the RPMs and allows the truck to settle down and pull with better RPMs at 70-75mph. At 70-75mph the tach is roughly around 2000 RPMs. Which is more practical in my opinion. Before I do this I really wanted to get advice from this group because I don't want to grenade my new transmission.



Sorry for the long read but really want to explain myself.
 

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2004 2500 555/5600 RWD QC/LB
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Priority is Braking.

About other traffic only: loaded heavy and able to safely maintain above minimum MPH. Then there’s no concern about other traffic on the road being backed up, whatever. Their poor skill isn’t my problem (vehicle spacing, etc).

And, trying to come to an emergency full stop from 70-MPH is more than electric drum trailer brakes are capable. Needs enormous space out ahead. (In this Class 8 I drive with air disc it’s over 1,200-ft; 4-football fields at 70+).

70-75/MPH loaded heavy is a bad choice.


Maximum Braking Reserve is what matters. Exhaust Brake recommended, but it doesn’t fix insufficient trailer brakes.

2,400-rpm isn’t a problem, per se. It’s under HP peak, even if well above TQ peak. Being in Direct with 4.10 gears it’s a reasonable speed given the load AND the need to STOP!

DODGE rated these at 20m GCWR. Get above it and things get more difficult. I used to run oilfield hotshot at up to 32k with these pickups (3rd Gen).

Find a CAT Scale and end the weight guesstimates. Empty with trailer, and loaded. Do a sliding scale reading to equalize trailer axle load placement.

Tires & Brakes have priority. Commercial Service Tires recommended, not boy toy crap. (BRIDGESTONE Duravis).

Test stop distance to 30-mph with & without empty trailer. With trailer should be shorter.

Upgraded brake wiring gauge & splices.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Independent Brake Wire Feed Upgrade

Zero brake drag and verified alignment on both vehicles.

1,900-rpm or 2,450-rpm at cruise is neither here nor there. Within design spec. Being in Direct is what counts as OD is pushing one’s luck.

A lower speed at a higher engine rpm maximizes stopping ability. And it ought to be able to do it all day without issue.

How fast one gets to highway speed is unimportant. It may take me miles to get all the way up to speed I’m loaded heavy with this fleet rig: there’s NO REASON to stand on it. (None, Zero, Nada).

Same for downshifting on grades, keep Engine Load to a high of 80%. Heavy = Slow. Don’t abuse it.

Upgrade the brake controller as least degree & duration required is a distinct help (short of disc brakes a highway rig needs). Better control makes an easier day.

DirecLink Base Proportional Trailer Brake Controller (DL-100)

Easier trailer control seems like a power boost. It distinctly affects fuel burn. Don’t use the throttle to punish what should have been made better with the trailer in precise loading and best possible braking.

No matter my load with this 53’, I want the trailer tandems to be as close as a slight weight bias to the Drives allows: braking & steering outweigh everything else.

I took the time this morning before I head into Wyoming on slick roads (after being closed two days) as I recognize and applaud your desire to be thorough. . but you’ve jumped ahead in the queue: tire loads (scaled), and braking tests come first. (After confirmation of exact load placement via scale work). This affects throttle use.

My 555 is the best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
Never again will Detroit get this match of ability in power & economy. The operator must adapt to the load, not the truck.

Engine Load Percentage is what you’re looking for otherwise. Cover that by monitoring all day (keep under 80) after above trailer work and then revisit your questions.

.
 

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9,168 Posts
Stock tuning/turbo/engine
ECM commands defuel, wastegate needs to open to prevent damage to turbo and engine.

Not generic code
2003 model
P0234 is TURBO BOOST LIMIT EXCEEDED
When Monitored and Set Condition: TURBO BOOST LIMIT EXCEEDED
When Monitored: While running.
Set Condition: The intake air pressure is above a calibrated value for a calibrated amount of time.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
OTHER DTC’S
WASTEGATE STUCK

Should verify boost with another gauge to help rule out electrical /sensor issue.
If that is good test turbo/wastegate good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Priority is Braking.

About other traffic only: loaded heavy and able to safely maintain above minimum MPH. Then there’s no concern about other traffic on the road being backed up, whatever. Their poor skill isn’t my problem (vehicle spacing, etc).

And, trying to come to an emergency full stop from 70-MPH is more than electric drum trailer brakes are capable. Needs enormous space out ahead. (In this Class 8 I drive with air disc it’s over 1,200-ft; 4-football fields at 70+).

70-75/MPH loaded heavy is a bad choice.


Maximum Braking Reserve is what matters. Exhaust Brake recommended, but it doesn’t fix insufficient trailer brakes.

2,400-rpm isn’t a problem, per se. It’s under HP peak, even if well above TQ peak. Being in Direct with 4.10 gears it’s a reasonable speed given the load AND the need to STOP!

DODGE rated these at 20m GCWR. Get above it and things get more difficult. I used to run oilfield hotshot at up to 32k with these pickups (3rd Gen).

Find a CAT Scale and end the weight guesstimates. Empty with trailer, and loaded. Do a sliding scale reading to equalize trailer axle load placement.

Tires & Brakes have priority. Commercial Service Tires recommended, not boy toy crap. (BRIDGESTONE Duravis).

Test stop distance to 30-mph with & without empty trailer. With trailer should be shorter.

Upgraded brake wiring gauge & splices.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Independent Brake Wire Feed Upgrade

Zero brake drag and verified alignment on both vehicles.

1,900-rpm or 2,450-rpm at cruise is neither here nor there. Within design spec. Being in Direct is what counts as OD is pushing one’s luck.

A lower speed at a higher engine rpm maximizes stopping ability. And it ought to be able to do it all day without issue.

How fast one gets to highway speed is unimportant. It may take me miles to get all the way up to speed I’m loaded heavy with this fleet rig: there’s NO REASON to stand on it. (None, Zero, Nada).

Same for downshifting on grades, keep Engine Load to a high of 80%. Heavy = Slow. Don’t abuse it.

Upgrade the brake controller as least degree & duration required is a distinct help (short of disc brakes a highway rig needs). Better control makes an easier day.

DirecLink Base Proportional Trailer Brake Controller (DL-100)

Easier trailer control seems like a power boost. It distinctly affects fuel burn. Don’t use the throttle to punish what should have been made better with the trailer in precise loading and best possible braking.

No matter my load with this 53’, I want the trailer tandems to be as close as a slight weight bias to the Drives allows: braking & steering outweigh everything else.

I took the time this morning before I head into Wyoming on slick roads (after being closed two days) as I recognize and applaud your desire to be thorough. . but you’ve jumped ahead in the queue: tire loads (scaled), and braking tests come first. (After confirmation of exact load placement via scale work). This affects throttle use.

My 555 is the best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
Never again will Detroit get this match of ability in power & economy. The operator must adapt to the load, not the truck.

Engine Load Percentage is what you’re looking for otherwise. Cover that by monitoring all day (keep under 80) after above trailer work and then revisit your questions.

.
This holds so much great information. Thank you for your knowledge of towing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Stock tuning/turbo/engine
ECM commands defuel, wastegate needs to open to prevent damage to turbo and engine.

Not generic code
2003 model
P0234 is TURBO BOOST LIMIT EXCEEDED
When Monitored and Set Condition: TURBO BOOST LIMIT EXCEEDED
When Monitored: While running.
Set Condition: The intake air pressure is above a calibrated value for a calibrated amount of time.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
OTHER DTC’S
WASTEGATE STUCK

Should verify boost with another gauge to help rule out electrical /sensor issue.
If that is good test turbo/wastegate good.
I checked the wastegate and it works fine and moves freely. I bought another and installed it. Only time will tell. Thanks for your input on this truck of mine. Still trying to figure out the high RPM at 55 MPH. Well, I know why rear-end gears. This is what I think triggered the code. I read it somewhere, but I can't remember where I read it. That these trucks can pull like a mofo but will pop that code if the RPM runs over ~2200 RPM for an extended period of time.
 

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I have had my truck, 4:10 geared automatic, at 2500+ rpm for miles and miles never thru that code.
If sure good turbo wastegate , what is ECM showing for Boost? should verify it is reading correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have had my truck, 4:10 geared automatic, at 2500+ rpm for miles and miles never thru that code.
If sure good turbo wastegate , what is ECM showing for Boost? should verify it is reading correctly.
Thanks for your input on this topic, rghavana. I really am trying to figure out what's going on with this truck. I have a lot of money tied up into it. I checked the wastegate and it functioned correctly but I had already bought another and decided to change it out regardless. The code hasn't shown its ugly face but to be honest with you I haven't pushed it hard since that day. I'll see if I can see that information on my scanner tool. A friend of mine suggested a turbo boost controller. What is your thought on those? From what I've heard, it only allows a certain amount of altered pressure to be read. I know I messed that up.
 
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Sorry if I missed it but do you have any gauges or an OBDII monitor installed on your truck?

If not, gauges will save you time, money and stress!

Boost gauge, pyro, auto trans temp, real oil pressure gauge, low side and high side fuel pressure gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry if I missed it but do you have any gauges or an OBDII monitor installed on your truck?

If not, gauges will save you time, money and stress!

Boost gauge, pyro, auto trans temp, real oil pressure gauge, low side and high side fuel pressure gauges.
The truck has nothing after-market on it completely stock. My OBD ll reader might have one.
 

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IMO,stock turbo, best to keep everything stock .
I agree with StealthDiesel, especially since towing heavy, going to be working on truck yourself, should first get set up to monitor all that important info, get better fuel filtering.

Should take some time and can research about Supporting mods here
Basic / Supporting Mods
 
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