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Hey Guys – My new 2008 Dodge is making oil! I’m going to be rich!!!

At the first oil change, about 2400 miles, my oil level was fine. At the second oil change at 5800 miles, I was over the top of the plastic dipstick and into the cable. Last week I had my oil changed and ran about 650 miles – I checked today and I’m 1/16th inch from the top of the plastic dipstick – again over 650 miles of easy highway driving. Both times oil changed at the dealer and I checked the level after the changes.

This truck has almost all highway miles, I never idle it for more than 2 minutes. I drive at 55-60 on the highway. I was at the AP flash, just got the AQ today. No drivability or stutter issues. I’ve had one P2000 code that the dealer reset a month ago. Get’s 18+ mpg empty at 55-60.

I’ve watched several of the threads regarding oil levels rising over the last 8 months since I bought this bad boy, but have not really seen a solution.

Can anyone tell me how they solved this issue?

I cannot imagine getting a qt or so of diesel over the last 650 miles of highway driving is good. The excess wear probably won’t elicit problems during the warranty period, but I cannot imagine oil dilution is good for a $15,000 motor….over a 500,000 mile life….

The dealer would not change the oil today, even though they agree it is above the fill level for the second time. They say they want to watch it and for me to bring it in at another 600-700 miles.

Is this dealer giving me good advice? I’m not a mechanic, I don’t have the skills to know if they are BS’ing me or not. I want to believe this dealer is on the up and up, but the service manager said the mechanic told him he checked the level and it was fine – in the middle of the area marked safe – I walked out and checked it in front of the service manager and it was at the very top of the plastic on the dipstick. That worried me quite a bit. Didn’t really pass the smell test.

I love this truck and don’t hold a grudge against anybody, but am worried about the long term consequences of the oil dilution.

River Runner
 

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HI
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the only way your oil can be going up is if there is fuel getting in the oil which is very bad. i would make sure your dealer knows what he is talking about. better yet i would take it to another dealer just to be safe.
 

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wouldn't an oil analysis help to determine how much diesel is in the oil?? not sure just a suggestion i've never had one done myself.
 

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I think the 6.7s do this because the rings get angry and shrivle up because of all the exhaust that is being put back into the motor
 

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Contact Blackstone for a test kit. When the dealer changes the oil next,ask to obtain a sample from your warm truck mid stream. Insist on witnessing the event. Send it in along with your e-mail address. They'll e-mail the results along with a printed copy in the mail. There's your proof of what's happening.
 

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HI
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Contact Blackstone for a test kit. When the dealer changes the oil next,ask to obtain a sample from your warm truck mid stream. Insist on witnessing the event. Send it in along with your e-mail address. They'll e-mail the results along with a printed copy in the mail. There's your proof of what's happening.
:agree2::agree2: :thumbsup
 

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does your oil seem really thin? If its diesel deluted it would be realy runny and transparent. Also is your truck off for a period of time before you check it? If the dealer guys start your truck shut it off and then check and fill to the line there is gonna be oil in your valve cover and on the sides of the oil gally and so forth after the engine sits for a couple minutes and all that oil runs down it will appear over full. In my opinion the level your at is ok if it isn't fuel making it grow. half or even a quart full probably wont hurt anything. I agree get it sent off and tested for fuel in the oil if there is a lot of fuel in it you'll want to look at the copper numbers and other metals from excesive wear that the deluted oil can cause. show thoughs results to your dealer, then to dodge, then if it goes that far a lawyer. Good luck man hope your rings arn't letting fuel by also what kinda miles do you have on your truck low miles could be why they arn't concerned yet it takes a long time for diesel rings to set.
 

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Do the DPF and EGR delete!!
I had an extra 3 litres once!!! That was doing my oil change after 5000 miles of driving! The regen is letting fuel past the rings into the crankcase. Mine was 1-1/2 " above the full line.
Now that I did my BADP dpf delete, no more increasing oil. I have 4000 miles on this oil change and I'm exactly on the full mark like when I put it in.
 

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Mine does the same thing...I have talked to dealers about this as well....and just get the "we have never heard anyone else say that or had any problems" I still continue to believe it is from the regen cycle.....it will try to do this at all stages.....not just at 1800 over 55mph....that is just considered ideal...it will try to do it in city driving as well.....where does all that fuel go? I am going to send in an analysis as well.....I can almost guarantee what it will come back as....mine will go up a good two quarts at least between changes
 

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TECH SPECIALIST
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That is why we get such bad fuel mileage. Most of the fuel goes in the oil pan. :rof:rof
 

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That is why we get such bad fuel mileage. Most of the fuel goes in the oil pan. :rof:rof
Yep! Some in the crank case, the rest down the exhaust.
At least after we do the oil change, we can recycle it and pour the used oil in the fuel tank!:lol3:
 

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I sent an oil sample in to blackstone and it came back with 2 percent fuel in the oil after about 1600 miles. They said this amount wouldn't hurt anything and to continue for another 2-3k. The TBN was at 6 also. They said it had plenty of life left.
 

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What kind of price is it to get the oil analysis done?
 

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I don't know what others paid, but it cost me $14. The post my results online and I can keep a running check on any vehicle I want.
 

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Do the DPF and EGR delete!!
I had an extra 3 litres once!!! That was doing my oil change after 5000 miles of driving! The regen is letting fuel past the rings into the crankcase. Mine was 1-1/2 " above the full line.
Now that I did my BADP dpf delete, no more increasing oil. I have 4000 miles on this oil change and I'm exactly on the full mark like when I put it in.
The rings would not last at all if that were true:w::w::w:
 

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Operation and Maintenance Manual
C7 and C9 On-highway Engines Media Number -SEBU8083-08 Publication Date -01/06/2007 Date Updated -12/06/2007


i02541523


Engine Oil Level Gauge - Calibrate
SMCS - 1326-524



Check Calibration at the First Oil Change
The engine oil level will vary depending on the angle and the slant of the engine installation. The angle is the front to back tilt. The slant is the sideways tilt.

The oil level gauge markings must be verified in order to ensure that it is correct. Verify the oil level gauge markings at the first oil change.

Verify the "ADD" mark and verify the "FULL" mark that is on the oil level gauge. Use the following procedure.



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NOTICE
The vehicle must be parked on a level surface in order to perform this maintenance procedure.


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Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is achieved. Stop the engine. Remove the crankcase oil drain plugs. The oil drain plug from the deep portion of the oil pan should be removed. Drain the oil from the crankcase for 20 minutes.

Remove the used oil filter(s). Install the new oil filter(s). Install the oil drain plugs and tighten to 70 ± 15 N·m (50 ± 11 lb ft).
Note: Your engine may be equipped with auxiliary oil filters. The auxiliary oil filters require a different volume of oil. Refer to the OEM specifications for the auxiliary oil filter.


Refer to the table that is correct for your engine and oil pan below. Pour quantity "A" of engine oil into the crankcase.

Allow enough time for the oil to drain into the crankcase. Approximately 20 minutes should be allowed. Check the oil level. Wait for several minutes and check the oil level again. Proceed after the oil level stops changing.

Check the oil level on the oil level gauge. The oil level should be at the "ADD" mark. If the oil level is not at the existing "ADD" mark, grind off the "ADD" mark and engrave the new "ADD" level. Use an engraving pen in order to engrave the new "ADD" mark.

Pour quantity "B" of oil into the crankcase. Allow enough time for the oil to drain into the crankcase.

Check the oil level on the oil level gauge. The oil level should be at the "FULL" mark. If the oil level is not at the existing "FULL" mark, grind off the "FULL" mark. Use an engraving pen in order to engrave the new "FULL" mark.

Pour quantity "C" of oil into the crankcase in order to allow oil to fill the oil filter.


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NOTICE
Do not crank the engine for more than 30 seconds. Allow the starting motor to cool for two minutes before cranking again.


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Start the engine and run the engine enough to ensure that the lubrication system is filled. Inspect the engine for oil leaks.

Stop the engine and allow enough time for the oil to drain into the crankcase.

Check the oil level on the oil level gauge. If the oil level is not at the calibrated "FULL" mark, fill the crankcase to the calibrated "FULL" mark. Record the amount of oil that was added as quantity D. Record the oil capacity of the lubrication system for future oil changes.
Table 1 C7
Quantity of Oil Shallow Sump Standard (Deep) Sump
A 13 L (14 qt) 20 L (21 qt)
B 3 L (3 qt) 3 L (3 qt)
C 2 L (2 qt) 2 L (2 qt)
D
Total Capacity of the Lubrication System for Engine Oil


Table 2 C9
Quantity of Oil Center, Rear, and Front Sump
A 26 L (27 qt)
B 4 L (4 qt)
C 2 L (2 qt)
D
Total Capacity of the Lubrication System for Engine Oil






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Sun Aug 31 18:25:45 EDT 2008 I wonder if Cummins has a similar thing:T::T::T:
 

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The oil level is rising because during a REGENERATION cycle the injectors have a firing event during the exhaust stroke, this is supposed to blow the fuel into the exhaust where it will collect in the particulate filter, and then burn off soot when the temperatures are right. But, with the fuel being injected during the exhaust stroke, and the extra length of the pistons stroke (due to the 6.7 being bored and stroked) some of the fuel actually gets by the pistons at the bottom of the stroke and in turn is leaked into the crank case, therefore adding to the oil, and causing the oil level to rise.
 

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The rings would not last at all if that were true:w::w::w:
I measured 14 litres of oil when I removed it from the truck. It only needs about 11 to fill to the dipstick mark! It was very watery too!
 
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