Powder coating is strong, but when subjected to impacts tends to brake off in many large pieces, rather then scratch like paint. But you might be able to match that with a rattle can for touch up once it starts chipping
That's a good question. I'm not sure.When they powder coated those did they do just a blast and powder coat, or sand blast, primer, then powder coat? i've noticed the cost difference to primer material is minimal in terms of powder coating but often times pays off in the long run.
I keep John Deere Green and Yellow spray paint on hand, so that's what I plan to use on the pins.I would definitely paint the clevis and pins over powder coating, while the powder coating can last longer, the paint will be easier to touch up over time. I know my local feed and ranch store has JD yellow in rattle cans readily available, so would be an easy weekend/hour project to get them hung and painted.
The shop that does my blasting/powder coating already had John Deere Green powder coat, so that worked out well.Although now you'll either need to take the tractor out this weekend to get the new shiny's dirty, or clean the whole thing so it's all shiny again. It's nice how close a good powder coater can match paint these days
If they didn't spec a primer, it was probably just straight powder coated. Not really an issue or anything, but adding primer is minimal, and produces a better long term product. So maybe in the future be sure to ask about having them primed prior to powder coating. The key to powder coating is in the prep, like everything else. As long as they did a good job on the sand blasting, the powder coating should hold on pretty good. Just be warry of anything suspected to take impacts or torsional stress as that can cause the powder coat to start flaking off as it is a rigid covering. Anything that will have torsional stress or impacts should be painted, and it is more flexible, and easier to touch upThat's a good question. I'm not sure.
I keep John Deere Green and Yellow spray paint on hand, so that's what I plan to use on the pins.
The shop that does my blasting/powder coating already had John Deere Green powder coat, so that worked out well.
I just talked to the guy who owns the shop. He said there's no reason to use primer if blasting down to bare metal. Perhaps it's the type of powder he uses, but he claims that applying straight to the metal has the best adhesion.If they didn't spec a primer, it was probably just straight powder coated.
I don't use them often, but they come in handy. Mine are actually thread chasers, which clean and straighten the threads. They are not typical taps that shave metal.Always convenient to have a set of taps laying around.
Good memory! I just bought those tap sockets around the holidays. They work really well. There's an o-ring that holds the tap in place. Here's the YouTube video that sold me on them.Glad to see that your tap sockets came in handy for ya
Mine are ARP. If I remember correctly, I found the best prices on automotive websites, but I would also check eBay and Amazon. There's nothing cheap about ARP, so I don't blame you for wanting cheaper thread chasers. If you're interested in ARP, here are part numbers that will aid in searching: The Official ARP Web Site | Thread Cleaning ChasersI need to get me a set of thread chasers. Where'd you get those?
You should probably pull the radiator & oil cooler and clean it. You’d be amazed by how much crud gets built up. I thought I did a good job of keeping the old 6.5 radiator blown out bud decided to pull it, degrease & steam clean it and it was nasty dirty Afterwards my temps stayed in check with no issuesThe EcoDiesel with the Big Horn trim level has known issues with high coolant/oil temps under heavy towing loads, especially on mountain passes and long steep grades. I've had my truck derate twice (both times on mountain passes) towing near maximum capacity.
To remedy this problem, I swapped to a high flowing grille. The Big Horn grille has a textured backing with small holes. The Honeycomb grille is wide-open and allows a significant amount of air flow to pass through. I miss the look of the Big Horn grille, but the black honeycomb insert with chrome surround doesn't look too bad since the side steps and tow mirrors are also black.
Here are some before and after pics:
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I would warn you that baiting isn’t allowed on the forum.The EcoDiesel with the Big Horn trim level has known issues with high coolant/oil temps under heavy towing loads, especially on mountain passes and long steep grades. I've had my truck derate twice (both times on mountain passes) towing near maximum capacity.
To remedy this problem, I swapped to a high flowing grille. The Big Horn grille has a textured backing with small holes. The Honeycomb grille is wide-open and allows a significant amount of air flow to pass through. I miss the look of the Big Horn grille, but the black honeycomb insert with chrome surround doesn't look too bad since the side steps and tow mirrors are also black.
Here are some before and after pics:
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Did you delete my post?The EcoDiesel with the Big Horn trim level has known issues with high coolant/oil temps under heavy towing loads, especially on mountain passes and long steep grades. I've had my truck derate twice (both times on mountain passes) towing near maximum capacity.
To remedy this problem, I swapped to a high flowing grille. The Big Horn grille has a textured backing with small holes. The Honeycomb grille is wide-open and allows a significant amount of air flow to pass through. I miss the look of the Big Horn grille, but the black honeycomb insert with chrome surround doesn't look too bad since the side steps and tow mirrors are also black.
Here are some before and after pics:
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I guess we shouldn’t be surprised that it’s no different then when he was around before. I expect my 5 year old to learn from negative experiences. Don’t understand why it’s out of the ordinary to expect an adult do the same.Ha and mine. Which was completely in line with the rules and had zero reason to be deleted.