[2nsane2005]

Nice work. Having good light in these trucks is one of the best mods you can do. Still love flipping the lights on and admiring how well they work!

Truth be told, I'd save your money for a while until the Bi-LED projectors can match the HID projectors as far as light output, hotspots, focal range, etc. They're getting closer, but you'll still see better results with a true projector HID.

THe other thing I dislike about Bi-LED projectors is the LED is built in. If it ever goes out for some reason, you are undoing ALL of the nice work you did to get the entire projector out and sent back to the company. Depending on how you did your retrofit, this might mean breaking any epoxy or JB weld free from the nut. Seems like more of a hassle than it's worth, rather than just swapping bulbs.

Valid points brother! Ya I wouldn’t want to open up my headlights again to exchange for another bi led projector!

 

[Monkeh]

Credit where its due, That retrofit looks fantastic. Well done.
Let me give you some advice from a fellow retrofitter. I found that using LED strips are bad news if you use any brand of cheap strips.
But if you HAVE to use them, I have found they don't like anything over 12V.
If you can drop the voltage down to maybe 9V when they are running either by building a small regulator circuit or do it by just a resistor, the LED's will last a hell of a lot longer. Brightness change is minimal.
I've experimented, at 12V most led strips are on their limit.
13V the resistors on the strips are getting very stressed.
13.8-14.4V The LED's start to show signs of heat stress.
Considering cars/trucks that have been sat for a while with low batteries, that alternator can crank out up to 15.5-15.8V on a hard charge run, That's enough to zap and kill LED's or at least shorten their life considerably.
It's just a thought, Because cracking open headlights to replace a $0.01 strip of LED on a $200 headlight absolutely sucks. Especially when someone you sold it to, wants it done for nothing!

 

[krashDH]

Credit where its due, That retrofit looks fantastic. Well done.
Let me give you some advice from a fellow retrofitter. I found that using LED strips are bad news if you use any brand of cheap strips.
But if you HAVE to use them, I have found they don't like anything over 12V.
If you can drop the voltage down to maybe 9V when they are running either by building a small regulator circuit or do it by just a resistor, the LED's will last a hell of a lot longer. Brightness change is minimal.
I've experimented, at 12V most led strips are on their limit.
13V the resistors on the strips are getting very stressed.
13.8-14.4V The LED's start to show signs of heat stress.
Considering cars/trucks that have been sat for a while with low batteries, that alternator can crank out up to 15.5-15.8V on a hard charge run, That's enough to zap and kill LED's or at least shorten their life considerably.
It's just a thought, Because cracking open headlights to replace a $0.01 strip of LED on a $200 headlight absolutely sucks. Especially when someone you sold it to, wants it done for nothing!

Good advice. Although I scrapped the idea to put any strips in the headlight retrofit. Especially reading up on how much they fail. I figured functionality over fancy. I put more time into the color matching. Opening the headlights a second (or third) time is no fun. With the wet season upon us, I noticed some pretty bad condensation in one of my headlights on my TDI...going to have to open up and re-seal this weekend, not looking forward to that

As well since I'm running switchbacks in the signal socket, it kind of already had the look I was going for (running lights white, turn signals amber). Also kind of doubles as a "headlight" to get me home if a bulb or ballast ever goes out at night and I don't have a spare. Having a white light from the front will at least avoid suspicion...maybe.