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I like the look of the shrouds being a different color. It off sets the main color.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I like the look of the shrouds being a different color. It off sets the main color.
That was kind of my thought too.

The color match of the trim will match the vehicle nicely.
The OEM reflector bucket will be black (now that the chrome is stripped.
The only feedback I've gotten so far from a couple buddies is they like the black shrouds on the black reflector.

I'm torn between the graphite shroud or the black shroud. Maybe once I get it in hand, I could accent it. Even though the graphite is darker, it's hard to tell unless you're really looking at it upclose. If I do a black shroud, the whole "pocket" will be black, which means you really won't see the shroud design unless you are up close.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Krash......I painted my orange reflector with VHT black, it still shows amber when on but I like the look of them not being orange/amber when off. I also have LED switchbacks strips for turns/running lights, so there's that.
I forgot to ask in the reply earlier...did you feel the need to throw a clearcoat (even if just a cheap rattlecan one) over the top of the VHT? The VHT is nearly dry now, I could rough it up a bit and do a couple layers of clear after it's dry if need be for longevity. I've just noticed in the past when I tint my tail lights/3rd brake light after a couple of years they need to be re-done. Not sure if being behind the lens will help with that, but once these are sealed up, I'd rather not have to take the lens back off to repaint or anything if I don't have to.
 

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I forgot to ask in the reply earlier...did you feel the need to throw a clearcoat (even if just a cheap rattlecan one) over the top of the VHT?
I didn't put a clearcoat on, felt that being out of the elements inside the housing was good & so far it is.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Came out pretty good!

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Discussion Starter #27
Nice job....... way, way better than leaving them orange, imo.
Yeah I agree. Last part will be determining what I want to do with the shrouds. They should be arriving anyday now.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok I got my new shrouds in....I think I'm staying black with the shroud. It really fills the bowl up nicely. If I painted it either of the 2 other colors, I think it would be a bit too much color match, I like a bit of offset.

I may toy with the idea of "highlighting" the shroud.

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I think I might be going another direction with ballasts and bulbs as well.

I've been a lurker over on HID planet for a while now. After numerous research, I think I'm going to ditch my Morimoto ballasts and bulbs...on the truck and they car. Don't get me wrong here, they are the best that aftermarket can buy.
But, I did a lot of reading on the Hella Gen 3 ballasts and even though they are from the 2000's era cars, they are some of the fastest firing, longest lasting, toughest ballasts out there. You can find good deals on them too if you look hard. The igniter is actually part of the body of the ballast (internal) as well. I was able to pick up 5 of them for a really good deal for the car and truck, and 1 backup. I originally was going to keep the Mori D2S bulbs, but after more research they don't play nice with the Gen 3's. I'll probably switch to an OEM Phillips D2S 825122 bulb.

That being said, I'll have a newish set of Mori XB 35 ballasts and a couple of new sets of D2S 5500k (new in box bulbs) up for sale.

Also, I got my lenses back from clearcoat yesterday, and am unhappy with how they turned out. I have a lot of wet sanding ahead of me to get ALL of the clearcoat off. I'm going to have to take these things down to plastic. I'm going to restore them myself. Hooray for a nice drill and a lot of sanding pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So next step in the project is to fit up the projectors in the bow. The D2S's are a bit bigger than the H1, so the bulb deflector holder needs to be ground or cut off. I found it was easiest to align the reflector with the holder vertically, then come in with a cutoff wheel and shave top to bottom. So it would be 90* rotated from the photo. Then, you probably don't have to do this part but I did it prior to shaving the deflector down, but I put a little notch in the projector gasket just to clear what was left of the holder.

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I test fitted the projector and the hole was still a bit too small for the D2S mounting shaft, so I had to open it up a bit more with the Dremel. Then it was onto running the wires for the high beam. I chose to drill right below the defector holder (where it used to be) and run the wiring through the grommet.

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Next is to install the projector into the bowl. Fairly straight forward. This is where that new Morimoto tightening tool comes in handy. Allows you to tighten the lock nut in a confined space. Don't crank on it, the headlights will have to be installed onto the truck and then spun so you can get it level for your setup.

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During my "grinding" I dropped the reflector on the concrete and broke a piece off of the outer diameter that seals with the rubber boot. Had to do some mending with epoxy.

Now you can install the projectors back into the housings:

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At this point you really have 4 headlight adjustments (while the lens is off). Unless you're diligent (unlink myself) I forgot to mark the amount of adjuster rod sticking out of the housing. So When I installed the bowl back in, there is no "hard" stop for 2 of the mounts...basically tightening one and loosening the other will adjust your headlight up and down and left and right. So, if on the truck, you use the "main" adjustments and you find that you are running out of adjustments, you can "buy" yourself more adjustment via the two Torx heads that are associated with the external adjustment screws (that are inside of the lens). It's hard to explain, but maybe I'll try and get photos when that time comes.

Ok, now that everything is in, you can see how everything will look once it's all buttoned up...continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok, here's how it will look if I keep the shrouds black (I'm leaning this direction):

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Here's a couple photos if I paint the new shrouds. Left is the graphite, right is the color match:

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Detailed graphite:

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Detailed color match:

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Those shrouds that I've painted don't fill the bowl as much as the new ones as you can see. So if I were to paint the new ones, I think it might be a bit too much matching...won't really get any contrast of the reflector bowl behind it in that case.

I have a bit to decide, I am going a different direction with my ballasts and bulbs, so waiting on those to get here.

Now it's onto the crappy part of this build...sanding down all the new clearcoat the body shop laid on the lenses. Gonna take a while. Out to the garage I go.
 

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Doing something similar, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to make sure that the projectors are indeed parallel with the vehicle. In other words pointing straight forward.
How did/will you go about that?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Doing something similar, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to make sure that the projectors are indeed parallel with the vehicle. In other words pointing straight forward.
How did/will you go about that?
So there's a couple things you can do for this.
On some photos up there, you can see the face that I cut and smoothed that the blue locknut seats on. You want that modified face to be as level as possible, and the way to go about that is measuring from the larger outer diameter (that has the 3 screws) from it's face down to your modified face in 3 spots. Just make sure that measurement is fairly close.

Also you can see that I left a little lip there instead of taking it all the way down to the curved part of the reflector. this lip corresponds to a little bit thicker "bore" that the shaft of the D2S projector engages in. The key here is a TIGHT fit. I used that step drill to the largest size, which was slightly undersized compared to the diameter of the threaded shaft. To finish, I hit it inner diameter with a dremel and sanding wheel, checking fitup often. When I got to the point where I could push the projector through the hole with some resistance, I stopped sanding. This tight fit basically only allows the projector to align with the bore you drilled out.

Also, as long as you center your drill, with that gasket and your projector, it will naturally settle in the "pocket" off the reflector and kind of cup it in place. With all those things combined, your projector should not be crooked in the bowl. If there is any at all, it will be very minor and you should be able to adjust it out with the headlight adjusters (internal ones and external)
 

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The rubber isolators that you cut, are those the ones that have the same thickness all the way around, or do the they have a thicker and thinner part?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The rubber isolators that you cut, are those the ones that have the same thickness all the way around, or do the they have a thicker and thinner part?
The ones I got with these D2S's were the same thickness all the way around. After I snugged the locknut down I looked to make sure it was sealing all the way around.

My last set of D2S's for my retrofit for my VW had the multi-thickness isolators, but I'm not using them because I'm mounting them by the flange.

Not sure why they switched from one to the other because my other set of D2S's are not that old.
 

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So there's a couple things you can do for this.

Also you can see that I left a little lip there instead of taking it all the way down to the curved part of the reflector. this lip corresponds to a little bit thicker "bore" that the shaft of the D2S projector engages in. The key here is a TIGHT fit.
Thanks! I've done pretty much what you suggest, but have two things working against me.
Primarily that the Morimoto M LED projectors have a big honkin' fan hanging down, and also that the quad housing's low beam reflector isn't symmetrical.

I'm trying not to remove any more material than necessary, for overall strength and in hopes of supporting the outer end of the projector.
Have been using a laser for aiming purposes, but am still about four inches off to the right at only some 15 feet.
A lot more material has been removed since taking the second photo.
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Discussion Starter #36
Did your Mori's come with a rubber isolator we were talking about above? My old set came with the isolator that was different thickness at each spot...I think it's intention was exactly for what you're trying to do. If it's too far to the right, you would rotate that isolator until the thicker part was on/under the right of the projector and it would in turn kick the beam back to the left.
 
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They came with a whitish isolator, which I must admit that I really haven't paid attention to yet. It's really soft as I recall.
I'll just have to keep grinding away until the projector doesn't hit any part of the reflector in the back. Easier said than done since those parts aren't visible. Might be time to start using clay to check the clearances.
And I need to buy or make one of those tools for the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
They came with a whitish isolator, which I must admit that I really haven't paid attention to yet. It's really soft as I recall.
I'll just have to keep grinding away until the projector doesn't hit any part of the reflector in the back. Easier said than done since those parts aren't visible. Might be time to start using clay to check the clearances.
And I need to buy or make one of those tools for the nut.
Yeah I'd check that out...if it was like mine and the same thickness all around, probably won't help your cause. But if it's the older style you might be able to use it to your advantage.
 
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@Jimmy N. You can try shimming the back. Try putting like a piece of a zip tie or something between the reflector bowl and the nut/washer. Also make sure the steps on the cutoff are the same distance apart as the projectors.

15' is kinda close. I wouldn't make anything permanent until you're at least 25' away from a wall.
 
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@Jimmy N. You can try shimming the back. Try putting like a piece of a zip tie or something between the reflector bowl and the nut/washer. Also make sure the steps on the cutoff are the same distance apart as the projectors.

15' is kinda close. I wouldn't make anything permanent until you're at least 25' away from a wall.
Yes, I'll probably end up having to shim a bit at some point. For now I want the back of the projector (at the shaft) to end up parallel to the hole, without any interference from the reflector.

For now, the 15 feet is what I have available in the garage. Not ideal, but hey, it's better than eight feet.
Once I have one side verified to be correct, the other side will be a piece of cake. As you say, then it's only a matter of getting that projector clocked correctly and the steps the same distance apart as on the vehicle.
 
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