I like the look of the shrouds being a different color. It off sets the main color.
That was kind of my thought too.I like the look of the shrouds being a different color. It off sets the main color.
I forgot to ask in the reply earlier...did you feel the need to throw a clearcoat (even if just a cheap rattlecan one) over the top of the VHT? The VHT is nearly dry now, I could rough it up a bit and do a couple layers of clear after it's dry if need be for longevity. I've just noticed in the past when I tint my tail lights/3rd brake light after a couple of years they need to be re-done. Not sure if being behind the lens will help with that, but once these are sealed up, I'd rather not have to take the lens back off to repaint or anything if I don't have to.Krash......I painted my orange reflector with VHT black, it still shows amber when on but I like the look of them not being orange/amber when off. I also have LED switchbacks strips for turns/running lights, so there's that.
So there's a couple things you can do for this.Doing something similar, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to make sure that the projectors are indeed parallel with the vehicle. In other words pointing straight forward.
How did/will you go about that?
The ones I got with these D2S's were the same thickness all the way around. After I snugged the locknut down I looked to make sure it was sealing all the way around.The rubber isolators that you cut, are those the ones that have the same thickness all the way around, or do the they have a thicker and thinner part?
Thanks! I've done pretty much what you suggest, but have two things working against me.So there's a couple things you can do for this.
Also you can see that I left a little lip there instead of taking it all the way down to the curved part of the reflector. this lip corresponds to a little bit thicker "bore" that the shaft of the D2S projector engages in. The key here is a TIGHT fit.
Yeah I'd check that out...if it was like mine and the same thickness all around, probably won't help your cause. But if it's the older style you might be able to use it to your advantage.They came with a whitish isolator, which I must admit that I really haven't paid attention to yet. It's really soft as I recall.
I'll just have to keep grinding away until the projector doesn't hit any part of the reflector in the back. Easier said than done since those parts aren't visible. Might be time to start using clay to check the clearances.
And I need to buy or make one of those tools for the nut.
Yes, I'll probably end up having to shim a bit at some point. For now I want the back of the projector (at the shaft) to end up parallel to the hole, without any interference from the reflector.@Jimmy N. You can try shimming the back. Try putting like a piece of a zip tie or something between the reflector bowl and the nut/washer. Also make sure the steps on the cutoff are the same distance apart as the projectors.
15' is kinda close. I wouldn't make anything permanent until you're at least 25' away from a wall.