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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I caught the retrofit bug again. This will be my 3rd projector retrofit on these trucks (or 4th maybe?).
The last one I documented here:


Then I took my chance on some projector headlights that are a newer style with an integrated tube LED. While they are ok for what they are, they can't touch a real retrofit.

So I'm back in the saddle again.

I'm going to go with the Morimoto mini D2S 5.0 this go around. 3.0" lens instead of 2.5":

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You can opt to get that cool little spider tightening tool separately which I chose to purchase. I think it was $10.

I already have a set of Mori Ballasts as well as their harness. I'll be using 35W setup. There is really no need to go with a 55W setup. 35's are plenty bright, the bulbs will last longer and actually they are easier on your eyes for driving. There's a lot of info out there on 35 vs 55 W setups, I've run both and settling on 35. When the high beams are on (shutter down) they make my front light bar almost useless.

I'm going to pair the above with a set of Apollo 3.0 shrouds. There shouldn't need to be any shroud trimming at all with these, and they fill out the bucket nicely.

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I'm not going to go into the wiring in this thread because there are a ton of ways to do it.
But I'm going to be running a switchback turn signal and an LED switchback strip. I'm likely going to run with the "white" part of the switchback bulb unhooked as I've found with my current headlight it washes out the LED tube strip when it's a running light if you have both connected. So my current setup has the tube as the white running light, and when blinkers come on, it's just the orange of the switchback bulb.

I also HIGHLY recommend finding a set of OEM housings to do this to. They are built MUCH better than any of the aftermarket ones. You can use aftermarket ones, but I've done both, but not only is it more solid of a setup, but they're easier to work on too.

It's handy to have a couple other things.

Dremel type tool with cutoff/sanding attachments

Step drill bit up to 1-3/8" (35mm):

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You'll also need some sort of resealing glue (there are options out there):

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Easy-Off oven cleaner:

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First thing you want to do is open up the headlights.
This is outlined over in my other retrofit thread so you can reference that, but it's easy for our years.

Once the lens is apart, you can separate all the pieces. Remove the bulb deflectors as well. The main one is kind of tough, grab it by the base and wiggle it and it will come out. Use gloves so you don't cut yourself. The turn signal (if you choose to remove it just snaps in and out of place.

Remove the main reflector bucket from the adjusters as well. It's just a torx screw down in there but you'll need a decently long handle to get to them.

Now, I didn't do this last time, but the Easy-Off works really fell for getting that plasti-chrome to just melt off the housings.

Whether you are prepping to paint or you want your housings black, watch the magic unfold.

Prep the internal chrome trim (if you're going this route):

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Now, you can see here how cheap that plasti chrome is. This is why you don't want to try painting over it, it flakes off really easy (although I've roughed it up and painted over it and never had an issue):

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Give them a nice coating, but don't lay it on too heavy. You want it to adhere and do its thing
DISCLAIMER: Wear gloves or hand protection! This stuff can eat your skin!

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Do the same thing for the main reflector buckets as well.

Let them soak for around 15 minutes...this is what they should look like after the soak. You can see the black peeking through...the original molded plastic color.

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10 photo limit....continued
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Then it's like the old armhair commercials....just rinse and wipe away!!

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If your end-goal is to black out, you're done here. I'm not sure what I want to do yet, the black looks great, but I've had a blacked out pair before. I may want to color match this time. I don't know. Difficult choice.

Onto the main bucket modification.

The stem of the D2S are 35mm...which happens to also be the largest size of the step drill. Perfect.

First thing you need to do though is cut the very thin "tube" that houses the 9007 bulb away with the dremel....this will allow you to get the step-bit centered where the "slope" is where the bulb sits. See arrow, that's the thin part. You can still see the bulb alignment notches in there:

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Then just step drill through until you clear the 1-3/8" size.

Should look something like this at the end. You want to leave a bit of surface when it's all said and done. This is what the blue D2S locknut will bite on:

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Now, don't worry about getting the flat spot perfectly perpendicular to the housing. It likely won't be...but that's ok. Your step drill going through the housing is basically your primary datum. It's a tight fit. It's not going to allow the shaft to enter crooked. It's going to act as a guide. But you can try to get it even, which I will do later. You will want to measure from the top of that outer ring down to a few spots on where you trimmed. Just make sure they are about the same depth all the way around.

Unfortunately, this is it for the time being. I'm waiting on the Mori's to show up, as well as a few other odds and ends. But I can start thinking about paint.

My original thought was to leave the main bucket black, and color match (kind of) the trim piece. I really like this Rustoleum Hammered paint. It's really tough as nails for rattlecan stuff. I've done suspension components and it's held up really well. I plan on painting my drag link and tie rod with it too once my kit is welded up. Not sure if I want the lighter silver or a charcoal grey yet:

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Although the other option is to leave the housings black, and just paint the shroud.

Or leave the main bucket black, and paint the trim piece and the shroud with the silver paint.

I forgot to add the LED strips I want to run. Nice thing about these guys is that they have all of the circuitry that makes the switchback/sequential turn work inside of the strip. There is no controller box :

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A lot to think about while I wait for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’ll pay for you to build a set for an 2006
Unfortunately not able to swing that. Working full time, taking night classes, all this is happening in between.
Really it's not too hard of a retrofit, it's one of the easier ones out there compared to other vehicles. I'd say give it a shot!
 

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I’ll pay for you to build a set for an 2006
I'm currently building another set and will be selling my current headlights.
This is what i currently have.
 

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I recommend not using the Amazon LED strips unless you're not too concerned with them falling or a diode going out here and there. I put those in my 2nd fully knowing they are not good quality, but it didn't matter to me. Some of the diodes will flicker at times or just not work. Diodedynamics.com makes some quality LED strips if you want better quality.

I don't know if you've used the nut and bolt method to install projectors before, but I find that method better for aligning the projectors. It's easier to make small adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I recommend not using the Amazon LED strips unless you're not too concerned with them falling or a diode going out here and there. I put those in my 2nd fully knowing they are not good quality, but it didn't matter to me. Some of the diodes will flicker at times or just not work. Diodedynamics.com makes some quality LED strips if you want better quality.

I don't know if you've used the nut and bolt method to install projectors before, but I find that method better for aligning the projectors. It's easier to make small adjustments.
Are you talking using a nut and screw thru the 4 locations on the projector flange, then drilling through the reflector in 4 spots? Or are you talking mounting by the shaft?
The way I'm doing it you have unlimited adjustment of the projector while the lens is off. I actually think it's more constraint to use bolts and nuts at all 4 parts of the flange since you're over constraining it (I've done it that way on the Golf). All of my retro's for the truck have been shaft mounted. I had just planned on mounting the projectors in their buckets snug to kind-of-tight, then getting it into a shop and aiming on the wall, turn the projector while it's on the truck till they are level...remove...scribe a line on the metal body of the projector and the reflector, then counterhold and tighten that nut down all the way ensuring my scribes stay aligned. Then a dab of JB weld to bridge from the locking nut to the reflector body so nut can't back off.

Got a link to the LED strips you're talking about? I'd like them without the controller box but I still want the switchback function...(so the circutry has to be within the flexible strip). Do they have those?

I'm running some Amazon strips on my MC for underglow for 2 years now, they are fine. But yeah, if I mount these strips inside the lens I'd like them not to fail, as I don't want to go in there and replace them every time, that would be a PITA.
 

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For my next retrofit I want to do the LED lenses. Did the morimoto on mine about 6 years ago.
 

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Yeah, that's I'm talking about. You can use 3 or 4 bolts to mount the projector. I find the biggest advantage to using the nut and bolt method is when your aligning side to side. I also think it's more sturdy using the nut and bolt vs having the back of the bowl riding on the rubber grommet.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, that's I'm talking about. You can use 3 or 4 bolts to mount the projector. I find the biggest advantage to using the nut and bolt method is when your aligning side to side. I also think it's more sturdy using the nut and bolt vs having the back of the bowl riding on the rubber grommet.

Yeah for sure. I've always had trouble getting them perfect, or I've had them vibrate and "settle" where they want to be. But the cg will be better off mounting from that flange that's for certain. Kind of why I mentioned at the top to use OEM housings and reflectors.

Talking to TheRetrofit guys, they prefer the shaft mount over other ways from the sounds of it, but it's probably better if you're doing hundreds of these things. There also is a mounting plate out there that bolts to the 3 OEM adjusters (instead of the reflector) and you mount the projector flange to that. Takes the guess work out of alignment but if you want to use the reflector for visual aesthetics you need to get creative.

I'll see how this works out. Nice thing is I can go either way if one or the other doesn't work out.

I looked up some of their LED strips as well. High quality yes. But trying to avoid the external control box. I have. Lot going on with wiring behind the headlights already (harnesses) since I've got custom wiring back there to for the Chevy mirror conversion, LEDs, etc, so trying to avoid my more boxes.
 

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I'm currently building another set and will be selling my current headlights.
This is what i currently have.
Shoot me a pm with a price
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright well here in a bit, I'll have a couple samples of the paint I got and would like some opinions.
I really like both of the colors though.

I hit a couple of old projector shrouds that I botched on another build so they were garbage anyway, but it will show at least what the 2 paints will look like.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright this was the 2 quick coats of the paint that I'm choosing between on the botched shrouds:
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Flash was on for these next 2:

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The last comparison:

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So they look a bit different as you can see in different light, outside vs inside.

My plan was to paint the trim (last photo with the orange reflector) one of these two colors, leave the main bowl (first couple of photos) black, then offset the black in the projector bowl with painting the shrouds one of these 2 colors.

Note that my paint job isn't orange peeled, that's the nature of this "Hammered" paint. I like the rugged look, going to be doing my bumper with the stuff as well.

Thoughts or opinions on the colors/scheme I go with?
I realize the lighter silver color matches the truck better, but maybe the darker charcoal would be a good look for the trim, offsetting the truck silver a bit?
 

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I personally like the lighter color better.

Do you plan on painting the orange reflector?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I personally like the lighter color better.

Do you plan on painting the orange reflector?
Lighter color...on the trim and the shroud?
Not sure what I'm going to do with that reflector yet.
Maybe throw some VHT spray tint on it to smoke it out? No sure what to do there. Or leave it. But that might not look good.
 

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Lighter color on the shroud.

I was asking about the orange reflector because I noticed you didn't remove it when stripping the chrome. I thought there was little tabs behind it that you can pinch to remove the reflector. Removing it is easier then masking it when painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Lighter color on the shroud.

I was asking about the orange reflector because I noticed you didn't remove it when stripping the chrome. I thought there was little tabs behind it that you can pinch to remove the reflector. Removing it is easier then masking it when painting.
On the OEM like these, there aren't tabs...they basically melt the tabs down. I'd have to epoxy them back in place. I'll likely do that, good point there.

Edit: Just popped those off. Even being careful a couple of the tabs broke. Nothing a little bit of epoxy can't handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Lighter color on the shroud.

I was asking about the orange reflector because I noticed you didn't remove it when stripping the chrome. I thought there was little tabs behind it that you can pinch to remove the reflector. Removing it is easier then masking it when painting.
Well, sneak peek to the lunchtime rattle can session.
They are still wet but I think they turned out really good.

Now whether or not to smoke out the orange reflector. I know you have to show orange from the side marker in this state (when blinking) so I might just leave it how it is. We'll see. I have a couple days until the shrouds get here so I can decide whether i want to match them or go with some contrast on them.

I'll post some more photos when these things dry

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Here's a couple on contrast shots on the difference in the color of the paint I used this morning on the shrouds. I like the graphite color, but the matched looks good too. THe bucket will be black.

Matched:

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Charcoal/Grahite:

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The other option is to leave the shrouds as they come (black) with the black buckets.

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Graphite w/ black reflector:
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Black reflector with color match silver shroud:

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Krash......I painted my orange reflector with VHT black, it still shows amber when on but I like the look of them not being orange/amber when off. I also have LED switchbacks strips for turns/running lights, so there's that.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Krash......I painted my orange reflector with VHT black, it still shows amber when on but I like the look of them not being orange/amber when off. I also have LED switchbacks strips for turns/running lights, so there's that.
Thanks for the reply...I'm in the process of coating them with VHT...

Had to submit. The LED orange turn signal will be plenty bright for these anyway:
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