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Well, I caught the retrofit bug again. This will be my 3rd projector retrofit on these trucks (or 4th maybe?).
The last one I documented here:
www.cumminsforum.com
Then I took my chance on some projector headlights that are a newer style with an integrated tube LED. While they are ok for what they are, they can't touch a real retrofit.
So I'm back in the saddle again.
I'm going to go with the Morimoto mini D2S 5.0 this go around. 3.0" lens instead of 2.5":
![918358]()
![918360]()
You can opt to get that cool little spider tightening tool separately which I chose to purchase. I think it was $10.
I already have a set of Mori Ballasts as well as their harness. I'll be using 35W setup. There is really no need to go with a 55W setup. 35's are plenty bright, the bulbs will last longer and actually they are easier on your eyes for driving. There's a lot of info out there on 35 vs 55 W setups, I've run both and settling on 35. When the high beams are on (shutter down) they make my front light bar almost useless.
I'm going to pair the above with a set of Apollo 3.0 shrouds. There shouldn't need to be any shroud trimming at all with these, and they fill out the bucket nicely.
![918359]()
I'm not going to go into the wiring in this thread because there are a ton of ways to do it.
But I'm going to be running a switchback turn signal and an LED switchback strip. I'm likely going to run with the "white" part of the switchback bulb unhooked as I've found with my current headlight it washes out the LED tube strip when it's a running light if you have both connected. So my current setup has the tube as the white running light, and when blinkers come on, it's just the orange of the switchback bulb.
I also HIGHLY recommend finding a set of OEM housings to do this to. They are built MUCH better than any of the aftermarket ones. You can use aftermarket ones, but I've done both, but not only is it more solid of a setup, but they're easier to work on too.
It's handy to have a couple other things.
Dremel type tool with cutoff/sanding attachments
Step drill bit up to 1-3/8" (35mm):
![918361]()
You'll also need some sort of resealing glue (there are options out there):
![918362]()
Easy-Off oven cleaner:
![918363]()
First thing you want to do is open up the headlights.
This is outlined over in my other retrofit thread so you can reference that, but it's easy for our years.
Once the lens is apart, you can separate all the pieces. Remove the bulb deflectors as well. The main one is kind of tough, grab it by the base and wiggle it and it will come out. Use gloves so you don't cut yourself. The turn signal (if you choose to remove it just snaps in and out of place.
Remove the main reflector bucket from the adjusters as well. It's just a torx screw down in there but you'll need a decently long handle to get to them.
Now, I didn't do this last time, but the Easy-Off works really fell for getting that plasti-chrome to just melt off the housings.
Whether you are prepping to paint or you want your housings black, watch the magic unfold.
Prep the internal chrome trim (if you're going this route):
![918364]()
Now, you can see here how cheap that plasti chrome is. This is why you don't want to try painting over it, it flakes off really easy (although I've roughed it up and painted over it and never had an issue):
![918365]()
Give them a nice coating, but don't lay it on too heavy. You want it to adhere and do its thing
DISCLAIMER: Wear gloves or hand protection! This stuff can eat your skin!
![918366]()
Do the same thing for the main reflector buckets as well.
Let them soak for around 15 minutes...this is what they should look like after the soak. You can see the black peeking through...the original molded plastic color.
![918367]()
10 photo limit....continued
The last one I documented here:
3rd Gen Projector Retrofit, and Paint...
While I wait for my pieces and parts to get here, I figured I'd start this thread and capture my build. I ordered a set of the DDM tuning H1-V2 Bi-Xenon with shrouds: I've had good luck with their HID kits. I've got the Hi/Lo kit 55W and their relay, time to put projectors in. While I'm at...
www.cumminsforum.com
Then I took my chance on some projector headlights that are a newer style with an integrated tube LED. While they are ok for what they are, they can't touch a real retrofit.
So I'm back in the saddle again.
I'm going to go with the Morimoto mini D2S 5.0 this go around. 3.0" lens instead of 2.5":
You can opt to get that cool little spider tightening tool separately which I chose to purchase. I think it was $10.
I already have a set of Mori Ballasts as well as their harness. I'll be using 35W setup. There is really no need to go with a 55W setup. 35's are plenty bright, the bulbs will last longer and actually they are easier on your eyes for driving. There's a lot of info out there on 35 vs 55 W setups, I've run both and settling on 35. When the high beams are on (shutter down) they make my front light bar almost useless.
I'm going to pair the above with a set of Apollo 3.0 shrouds. There shouldn't need to be any shroud trimming at all with these, and they fill out the bucket nicely.
I'm not going to go into the wiring in this thread because there are a ton of ways to do it.
But I'm going to be running a switchback turn signal and an LED switchback strip. I'm likely going to run with the "white" part of the switchback bulb unhooked as I've found with my current headlight it washes out the LED tube strip when it's a running light if you have both connected. So my current setup has the tube as the white running light, and when blinkers come on, it's just the orange of the switchback bulb.
I also HIGHLY recommend finding a set of OEM housings to do this to. They are built MUCH better than any of the aftermarket ones. You can use aftermarket ones, but I've done both, but not only is it more solid of a setup, but they're easier to work on too.
It's handy to have a couple other things.
Dremel type tool with cutoff/sanding attachments
Step drill bit up to 1-3/8" (35mm):
You'll also need some sort of resealing glue (there are options out there):
Easy-Off oven cleaner:
First thing you want to do is open up the headlights.
This is outlined over in my other retrofit thread so you can reference that, but it's easy for our years.
Once the lens is apart, you can separate all the pieces. Remove the bulb deflectors as well. The main one is kind of tough, grab it by the base and wiggle it and it will come out. Use gloves so you don't cut yourself. The turn signal (if you choose to remove it just snaps in and out of place.
Remove the main reflector bucket from the adjusters as well. It's just a torx screw down in there but you'll need a decently long handle to get to them.
Now, I didn't do this last time, but the Easy-Off works really fell for getting that plasti-chrome to just melt off the housings.
Whether you are prepping to paint or you want your housings black, watch the magic unfold.
Prep the internal chrome trim (if you're going this route):
Now, you can see here how cheap that plasti chrome is. This is why you don't want to try painting over it, it flakes off really easy (although I've roughed it up and painted over it and never had an issue):
Give them a nice coating, but don't lay it on too heavy. You want it to adhere and do its thing
DISCLAIMER: Wear gloves or hand protection! This stuff can eat your skin!
Do the same thing for the main reflector buckets as well.
Let them soak for around 15 minutes...this is what they should look like after the soak. You can see the black peeking through...the original molded plastic color.
10 photo limit....continued
