i have a 95 auto.i did a bd #6 slid ahead with the boost elbow and noticed a few ponys comin up under the hood.you could start there.i don't push it to hard so i have not seen any transmission problems yet.but for the hell of it maybe look at your transmission.you can't feel power unless you are getting it to the ground and if you start doing mods it's the weakest point in the chain from everything i've read.there are alot of people who may disagree and this is only my opinion but it's also probably food for thought.
no problem.i am currently lookin into other mods like compound turbo's and methanol injection for my truck so incase you have any questions or just feel like tellin someone what your doin with your truck,give er cause maybe you'll be teachin me something i haven't learned yet myself.good luck
Smokinblues, I definitely agree with your recommendation to upgrade the transmission first because the stock tranny is barely up for the stock power level, which isn't much.
So the bare minimum (if tranny is already in pretty good shape, no burnt clutches etc...) would be to buy/install an HD Torque Convertor & HD Valve Body. The heavier-duty tranny components will be necessary to not only put the power to the ground, but prevent trans-destruction under power mods.
Don't waste your $$$ on fuel plates from ANYONE!!
Seriously, I'm not joking take your factory fuel plate out. Cut it flat (w/ a Dremel or grinder) to remove defueling features. Put it back in the pump and slide it forward.
Then slide the AFC housing forward (like it says in this link):
Like smokinblues said, buy an adjustable boost elbow to allow your turbo's wastegate to build 35PSI (or whatever you set, but that's a good max) instead of the stock 20PSI which is really mild. That HX35 will push cool air up to 35-38PSI and it'll take a LOT of abuse if it's in decent shape. Try not to bark it by letting off the throttle too fast.
That's how you get your pump pushing as hard as possible.
You can get to 300+HP with stock injectors & turbo with those pump tweeks.
You will really want a governor spring kit (GSK) to allow your engine to fuel above 2200RPM's because that's where the stupid stock governor springs start defueling and by 2500RPM's you're out of juice. It really sucks to drive these with stock gov springs.
No power in the upper RPM's.
If you're adventurous, advance your timing to 15-16º.
That's a free mod if you have the right tools.
Oh and I almost forgot to say... PLEASE for God's sake, use the Search feature on this site. We type this stuff all day long and our wrists get sore typing this crap out all day every day.
I'm not at all trying to offend or be a jerk, but if literally - if you scroll down the page of recent threads on any given day, there will be about 3-4 other threads (new threads) started by newcomers who want to know how to give their 12-valve power.
We all need to just start copying & pasting links or pre-written text that spells it all out every time a new thread comes up.
1. Gauges (at least EGT & Boost)
2. Air Intake (search for "BHAF" big honkin' air filter mod)
3. Exhaust (perhaps a free-flowing 4" by MBRP or Silverline)
Stay away from big money low-power mods like Air Intake Horns.. and cams.
Stick with "Bang 4 Buck" mods that get you power for cheap.
Water methanol isn't really needed on a 12-valve unless you have too much fuel for your turbo.
It's great and all, but you can do so much else before it's really needed. It's not what I would consider a "bang 4 buck" mod unless you're suffering from high EGT's as a result of too much fuel for your turbo(s).
So smokinblues, if you're planning for compounds & water methanol injection, you're planning to go pretty huge on power here. Have you been working on these things for a while already?
thanks algae eater.atleast if you some what agree with what i thought,that means i'm on the right road and as far as my truck goes..well there is no real plan.it's just a fly by the seat of my pants kinda deal.i'm typical,daily driver starts with the guages,then removes the silencer ring...next a 4" exhaust.next thing i know i'm doin skirts hoods bumpers.not to mention the rad,odd hoses,paintin stuff here and there.lol yeah one of those guys and now i'm hooked on the power idea.takin my old motor out of the old truck to rebuild so i can keep drivin and anything that sorta seems cool takes me to the next mod etc. as far as it goes if you have any advice about tweakin cheap for power past the ones mentioned,i would gladly like to hear.i am on this site all the time reading and tryin to find new tweaks and mods to try.i do as much as i can on my own and since i'm a welder fabricator i figure i can save alot of doe buildlng my own parts.and i agree about so many repeated threads sayin the same thing,but to give credit to the new comers,and the guys who can't seem to find the answer to thier question's.i say keep askin because some topics seem to not really get explained very clear some stuff is a challenge to a person who does'nt really understand it clearly.plus if you try reading it all,it can be pretty overwhelming,trust me lol. moral of the story,i love my truck and i want it to be a one of a kind so when i'm not on here.i'm workin on my truck.i'll keep you updated as i go.
It's more like.. unless you want to grind your timing case to get the plugs out/in, your other option is to pop the pump gear off, then remove the 6 bolts holding the pump in place and slide the pump back like 1/2". Then you swap plugs. Slide the pump back forward and pop the pump gear back on, then re-time the pump gear.
i don't think i will get that far into things till i've done my motor.i have tried tuning the afc for now and it ain't to bad.get a bit of smoke up to 10lbs of boost before it clears up under hard acceleration.doubt it'll do more till i do injectors.if anyone has a bulletproof dd motor specs up to about 600+hp i would gladly like to hear them and why these parts work best together.thanks again guys.:thumbsup:
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