Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm in the market for a 12 valve truck, and i dont know which to look for. i'm basically a car guy, but i need a truck to pull my cars around!
i'll be looking at the mid to late 90's ctd's. a friend of mine told me that the manual trans has a clutch effort that will make your leg jello from trying to push it in. is this true? maybe he just has weak legs! unless it's ridiculous, i don't see how it will bother me; i've been lifting for 15 years now and i squat over 500lbs so i don't see how a pressure plate is gong to wear out my left leg, but...

also, how much torque will the manual trans take? im not looking to make record braking power, but some basic bolt ons and a ecu tuner would be fine with me. would the manual handle this kind of power?

thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Manual trans. is better becuase manly you will only have to get a better clutch to hold decent power like 500-600HP i think if i remember right. And ya the first time i drove my truck for a while and when i got out i about feel, but after that i have gotten used to it and it doesnt bother me at all.. But, best way to find out is to go text drive one and find out for yourself. Good luck and welcome to the forum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
If I was primarily using my truck as a tow vehicle I would go with a 3500 Dually with a Manual.

Since mine is a "fun" vehicle thats kinda lifted, kinda fast, and only tows on occasion I went with a 2500 with an auto. However, I spent a lot of money to make my auto handle the power that a manual will handle with a replacement clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I was primarily using my truck as a tow vehicle I would go with a 3500 Dually with a Manual.

Since mine is a "fun" vehicle thats kinda lifted, kinda fast, and only tows on occasion I went with a 2500 with an auto. However, I spent a lot of money to make my auto handle the power that a manual will handle with a replacement clutch.
well, i'll probably use it for some fun too....a little wheeling on the side and basically just something new to play with you know? modding vehicles is in my blood, i can't leave anything stock.

how much will the stock clutch take?

also, what should i look out for on one of these, considering they will have 100-120k miles on them?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,630 Posts
For starters, there are no "chips" or "tuners" for the 12v.

Second, if you're strickly pulling...manual all the way. Since you say a little of both you'll have to decide whether or not you want to spend the $3-4k for a built auto to handle ANY extra power.

Stock clutches can barely handle the power of a stock engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
I'd say go ahead and test drive both of them and you'll be able to make the decision one thing that you definitely have to look out for on the 12 valve is the kdp. :CRY::CRY::CRY: :lol3::lol3::lol3: :welcome::welcome::welcome:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For starters, there are no "chips" or "tuners" for the 12v.

Second, if you're strickly pulling...manual all the way. Since you say a little of both you'll have to decide whether or not you want to spend the $3-4k for a built auto to handle ANY extra power.

Stock clutches can barely handle the power of a stock engine.
ok, good to know.so what is there then? i've been looking around on here for a list of standard upgrades, but haven't found it...

and it looks like i'll go with a manual. i really don't want to dump extra money into a built auto, i dont' mind a good clutch replacement though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'd say go ahead and test drive both of them and you'll be able to make the decision one thing that you definitely have to look out for on the 12 valve is the kdp. :CRY::CRY::CRY: :lol3::lol3::lol3: :welcome::welcome::welcome:
lol you diesel guys and your abbreviations. it's like going into a wrx or dsm forum i'm on, abbreviations everywhere. i hate feeling like a newb!

so what's the kdp?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,630 Posts
KDP = "Killer" dowel pin...basically it's a pin that vibrates out of it's location, over time, and when falls out causes bad things :thud: ALL it takes to fix is a simple tab.

12v upgrades are ALL mechanical. So everything you have to buy a chip for, on the new trucks, can be done with wrenches at no cost if you're mechanically inclined...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
I prefer the stick shift, I was in stop and go traffic downtown Chicago, that was only time I got a tired leg. It was in a gas 3/4ton Dodge, not any problem for me with the two diesels.Yote
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
KDP = "Killer" dowel pin...basically it's a pin that vibrates out of it's location, over time, and when falls out causes bad things :thud: ALL it takes to fix is a simple tab.

12v upgrades are ALL mechanical. So everything you have to buy a chip for, on the new trucks, can be done with wrenches at no cost if you're mechanically inclined...
thanks for the info, i'll research that kdp when i get my truck.
as far as the upgrades, i really like the sound of everything being mechanical! it's cheaper for one, and well, i work on cars for a living, so doing the work won't be too bad. never worked on a diesel before, but that's why i'm here, to learn everything i can. i really don't like electronic upgrades, very expensive and hard to diag if something doesn't work properly. kind of like my wrx. it's a pita compared to my talon. the talon i can make faster for a lot less money than the wrx.

I prefer the stick shift, I was in stop and go traffic downtown Chicago, that was only time I got a tired leg. It was in a gas 3/4ton Dodge, not any problem for me with the two diesels.Yote
cool. i'll definitely go for a MT then.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top