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Discussion Starter #1
Ill soon be a new owner of a 96 2500 CTD 2wd. High mileage, but good runner. Owner is a small business and will be supplying records.

Im new to Dodge Ram and CTD, but not new to diesels and mechanical injection, Ive owned quite a few Mercedes-Benz IDI turbodiesels. Ive been looking through the beginners threads and stickies. I have seen that some links are dead, like the diesel database, but Ill get through those in time.

Ill need to go through receipts, as I dont want to do anything that was recently serviced, but I will plan to get a good maintenance baseline on the truck. Thus I plan, depending upon age/mileage:

  • Oil and filter
  • Valve adjustment
  • Air filter
  • AT service (potentially torque bands)
  • Rear end service
  • Brake fluid flush
  • Grease anything I can
  • Fuel filter (is there a pre and a fine filter on these trucks?)
  • Go over all electrical connections including at the batteries
  • Lube all hinges and hood spring
  • tighten/replace anything that needs it
  • Check dowel pin if no history
I am curious about if it is best practice to pop and balance the injectors on these engines. On my MB cars, the bosch injectors (sometimes with different nozzles) are best pop tested and balanced every 100k or so for best combustion. Is this something that I should look into? Or, after some duration, is it best to replace injectors completely on these engines?

Is there anything else that I should be thinking about doing? Im not looking to hotrod, tune or do much else to this truck, I really just want a capable hauler with good efficiency, and I personally love diesels. Ill go back and re-review the stickies and beginner thread, but wanted to lay out my plan here for comment and suggestions.

Thanks very much for any advice!
 

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I also have a 96 so keep in mind these things are pretty slow in stock form, especially when there is a load on it. When I first got my truck I put a large quad in the back of mine and there was a noticeable difference in driveability, I live in an area with a lot of hills though. Hopping up the power does often require some tranny upgrades that can get costly so keep that in mind.

As for maintenance you might as well have a look at the front wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends and steering box, as well as u joints. Also if you are gonna check for KDP tab, count on a timing cover gasket and a front crank seal which come in a kit and might as well toss on a new belt, water pump and thermostat while your in there. My brake lines and hoses were trash so I did those as well, another cheap thing to look into is the larger Chevy wheel cylinder for the rear brakes.
 
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You'll want to inspect the intercooler boots. At this age they are very likely to start getting cracked, and there's some sheet metal real close by that can rub through if it gets a little bent or whatever (in fact, bending some of that sheet metal away is not a bad idea).
 
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Discussion Starter #4
You'll want to inspect the intercooler boots. At this age they are very likely to start getting cracked, and there's some sheet metal real close by that can rub through if it gets a little bent or whatever (in fact, bending some of that sheet metal away is not a bad idea).
is there a good source for those boots? I assume it is some sort of silicone or rubber hose that gets clamped down?
 

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If the engine is high mileage and never had the injectors done. I would just replace them. After a lot of miles the nozzles get worn. New nozzles cost $$$. For what nozzles cost to replace, clean injector and set pop pressure. You might as well replace the injector with new.
If injectors are fairly new and in good condition. It would not hurt to have the pop pressure set and balanced at 100K mile for best efficiency. But it is not a must do thing like IDI injectors.
Might want to add a radiator flush to your list.
Re the fuel filter. There is a fine mesh screen inside the fuel heater housing that should be replaced or cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Yes I plan to lose the fuel heater first thing.

I’ve been looking for a good source of that preheater and filter, but haven’t found one yet.
 

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Thanks. Yes I plan to lose the fuel heater first thing.

I’ve been looking for a good source of that preheater and filter, but haven’t found one yet.

It might be less cost direct from a Cummins shop. Part # 4762962 . Throw the preheater in the trash. The screen filter bowl will thread into the cavity the fuel heater was in.
 

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is there a good source for those boots? I assume it is some sort of silicone or rubber hose that gets clamped down?
The usual suspects (all the diesel performance parts places) have silicone sets of them (there are 4 in the system). I believe the OEMs are rubber and no longer available. They're surprisingly pricey, so I wouldn't necessarily replace them unless you're planning on running a lot of boost, or they look real suspect. Actually a boost leak test isn't a bad idea on a new-to-you truck... essentially you put a cap on the turbo with an air fitting, put 30-40 psi of shop air into the system and see if it holds. Plenty of threads with how to make a test fitting.
 
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