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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey! i wana remove .010'' or .015'' on my Head and Use the stock tickness Cummins Head Gasket? it is good? what are the benifits??

it add compression for sure.. i hear it help to remove Bad Boost( lag...)

tanks alot!!:)
 

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If you are removing the head, you will want to have it milled to get it flat again. Every one I've ever had apart has been warped to some degree. The head gasket will either not seal or fail prematurely if the warped head is reinstalled.
The Cummins 12 valve head has no "combustion chamber" like what is typically found on a gas engine. Milling the head will not increase the compression ratio any appreciable amount nor will it improve engine performance. The combustion bowl size and design in the piston is what will ultimately determine the compression ratio.
Milling the head .010" and using a standard thickness head gasket on an otherwise stock engine (no aftermarket higher lift cam, etc.) is fine. There will still be plenty of piston to valve clearance.
As far as the replacement head gasket goes, the Fel-Pro "Improved Design" head gasket IS the OEM head gasket. They make it. It can be found at Rockauto.com for about $30.

What symptoms/problems are you currently experiencing that you are trying to remedy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i will put oring in my head and install arp studs! i dont want to blow a gasket on the road! haha

i have buy the head kit gasker from cummins!
 

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Did something on your engine fail already or are you just trying to improve reliability? I'm not seeing anything in your list of mods that warrants o-rings or head studs at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Reliability! I Just Bump timing to 21* and installed 150hp race 3 (dragon fly) from II and 191dvs!
 

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Ok, well that will do it. With 21 degrees of timing, your HG likely won't live very long. Like I said, if you're getting into it, have the head milled flat. Might as well have a valve job done while it's apart. It would also be a very convenient time to upgrade the valve springs. With your level of timing with some added fueling mods head studs are practically necessary. You may also want to consider having the head cut for o rings and installing those at this time too. It will give you room to grow as you continue to add more power. Don't take any shortcuts, you will only regret it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know!! This is why i remove the head! Milled head, arp studs , orings, 60lbs valve spring on exhaust and intake! New hi-flow exhaust manifold at the same time!!
 

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Sounds like you've got the bases covered
 
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