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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone else tried this? when i flip the switch for my hot wired KSB it makes less power from idle to WOT, drops RPM and Boost under any load

i knew it would drop boost but why RPM? and how could i lose power on top is that too much timing?
 

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Yes, way too much. Thomas at M&H recommends leaving static timing at stock and at most, 1/8" bump if you absolutely want to. The reason behind the spacer is so that you can keep your bottom-end power while increasing top-end power much like an 1/8" timing bump. In other words, the spacer is equivalent to an 1/8" bump.
 

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Oh boy! You trying to pop the head?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jbradley500 said he runs +one tooth and the spacer, i figured 3/16 would be ok. i unhooked the hot wire yesterday and wont be hooking it back up
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dont feel like 3/16 and a spacer is alot for 5x16s. I didnt mean to run as much timing as I did with the KSB hotwired but my last thread about KSB mods went unanswered so i learned on my own and from the 1st gen cummins facebook page
 

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I think the spacer and added timing is fine. Hot-wired ksb is a lot of timing at low rpm and that's not very good for it. I think you just need to test different things. My truck rips with this amount of timing compared to 1/4" alone and I bet BC847 has the spacer plus a good amount of timing.
 

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I have the timing spacer with a full two tooth advance at the gears. With that, I've had to back the IP back pretty-much to the stock marks if not a little before.
I installed the spacer just at the start of winter. I haven't really had a chance to dial-in squat since. Quite frustrating. :banghead:

As it stands, energizing the KSB manually has the engine rattle BIG-TIME. :doh:
 

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why not run the spacer + the hotwire and keep the base timing stock? if all 3 is too much.
 

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Because then you're basically just disabling the dynamic timing by maxing it out at all times. Also I don't think it's good for the pump to have that much internal pressure all of time time (with a hot-wired ksb).
 

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One needs to know the KSB doesn't advance the timing like the dynamic advance, or a static setting.

For ease of starting purposes, the KSB advances the timing at low engine rpms.

See the KSB advance curve compared to the dynamic advance curve (from a Bosch VE book).




While it does advance the timing a little through out the rpm range, it's most pronounced in the low rpm range and it's there, that it amounts to too much with a LOT of static timing advance (twisting the IP to the head).
 

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Hey man when you say your pump is to the head, is it actually touching the head, I am just wondering i been playing with timing and havent found a sweet spot i like yet,THANKS
 

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When I first installed mine a couple years ago, the engine ran for crap. So I took it off and the engine was fine again. At that time, I didn't know but suspected the previous owner had messed with the timing. I didn't know he had jumped it a tooth until I had the front seal and other stuff done. After the timing was reset the spacer went back on with only one problem. It doesn't like cold (under freezing) starts. So I took it back off until spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
with the KSB unhooked, M&H spacer and 3/16's bump it seems to be the "sweet spot" for my set up.
 

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I have the spacer +1 tooth at the gear and IP back at stock setting. I had it at +1/8" and it had a bad rattle even with KSB unhooked. Im gonna try to rotate pump another 1/8" away from head or just go back to stock setting on gear and keep stock at pump.

Right now it starts hard in colder weather. It smokes raw fuel way more than it should when cold and up at 8-10,000ft+ it gets worse. Hopefully will get it cleared up.
 

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When I first installed mine a couple years ago, the engine ran for crap. So I took it off and the engine was fine again. At that time, I didn't know but suspected the previous owner had messed with the timing. I didn't know he had jumped it a tooth until I had the front seal and other stuff done. After the timing was reset the spacer went back on with only one problem. It doesn't like cold (under freezing) starts. So I took it back off until spring.
I have the spacer +1 tooth at the gear and IP back at stock setting. I had it at +1/8" and it had a bad rattle even with KSB unhooked. Im gonna try to rotate pump another 1/8" away from head or just go back to stock setting on gear and keep stock at pump.

Right now it starts hard in colder weather. It smokes raw fuel way more than it should when cold and up at 8-10,000ft+ it gets worse. Hopefully will get it cleared up.
At the time I first did mine, the IP was set as far from the head as the slots allowed. Still too much with the tooth bump.
 

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At the time I first did mine, the IP was set as far from the head as the slots allowed. Still too much with the tooth bump.
Yea, I tried moving the pump away from the head from the stock marks and it did not feel or look like it was possible. Gonna go back to stock timing gear mark. Thanks for the confirmation!
 

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I need to get me one of these. I'm sick of the rattle with the pump to the head.
 

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hm...interesting stuff in this thread. I have my motor modded about as far as I can go for fuel and I got a new, maxed IP. I have my timing 2 teeth advanced (10*) but pulled all the way away from the head. As a very rough guess it's probably the equivalent of a tooth + a little bit. I also have the timing device, and will be hooking my ksb up on a switch.

When I broke my motor in just after christmas it sounded really good (no ksb obviously). It was loud but wasn't rattling too much at all imo, and wasn't hard to start either once it was primed. I fear it will be too much advanced for the ksb to be effective though with that much advance and the timing spacer

I have the fuel about as full flow as possible. No Bc847 power but she's up there... It's because of his results that I set my timing where I did. It may be too much with these injectors though seeing as how they aren't a 145* injector. The other reason I set it there is I'd rather have the IP farther from the head, than closer. It's easier to work on and take the pump top off with it farther away from the head lol

Also, I read that stock has the IP set at around 12-13* of timing and 1 tooth is 5* (72 teeth on the gear, I counted) so I figured with the IP 2 teeth advanced but all the way away from the head I'd be in or around 18-20*. Which for somewhere around 400hp is a good spot to be afaik. Now my worry though, is that I will not be able to run the ksb because it will advance the timing too much.

I read also that the ksb advances 10*. Which I doubt. I mean, the same person who said that, also said 1 tooth is 10*, which it isn't.

That pic david posted makes me think that an energized ksb gives a bump of 2.5* or am I offbase/that just a random figure the book threw out there to make a point? and the actual figure in * of timing irrelevant and not accurate.
 
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