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Looking into 600hp tow setup

16K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  BigKev12valve 
#1 ·
So looking at buying a third gen debating if I wanna pull te cr and put a built 12 valve ppump or do a cr . I want the most reliable long lasting motor I can get . I know the 12valves well but been doing some research and trying to see if there's Benifit to running a cr.

Questions being are what years should I watch out for and why ? If I get a earlier year other then injectors would I need to do anything else to make it reliable ?

Also can anyone give me some ideas f a good towing setup for 600hp range ?

Thanks in advance !
 
#2 ·
Programming wise 03 to 05 is smarty or edge juice area and 06 to 07 is efi live. You will have to build your transmission of course! Get a fuel pump a fass 150 would be perfect and I would recommend big line kit and a stronger cp3. Ive been reading up a lot but it's hard to retain everything with work all over my mind but if I am correct a stroke 10mm would work but the experts will chime in soon. The experts will also give you the best injector and turbo set up I don't want to recommend anything turbo wise yet I'm not that good for specific sizes but would 100% over I think would work and if you have to tune them down. I hope I helped but if not I am sorry in advance!


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#3 ·
If I was going to build a tow setup it would be:

'06-'07 because EFILive
Stock/475 twin setup
60% over injectors
stroker CP3 or duals
built trans
FASS or Fuelab lift pump
ARP head studs
 
#4 ·
This with a manual or I would do similiar setup but on an 07.5 or newer truck with the auto. After towing with a 6 speed auto I will never buy a 4 speed auto again unless its for drag racing.
 
#5 ·
my former 03, set up with BD R-750 Twins, DDP 90's, FASS, Studs, Grid Heater Delete, Exhaust, Best SMarty tune at the time, built trans.

What she dynoed 649hp


towed amazing. I had the BD Tow twins with the same mods and it dynoed 601. That was a good tow set up. I added the BD R700's and it still towed great, cleaned up the exhaust well!
 
#7 · (Edited)
My personal favorite set up for a tow rig would be a 2003-2005, NV5600 6 speed, Smarty UDC tuning, a 62/475 compound set up, 120hp injectors, FASS 150, Valair dual disc organic clutch, and a single stroker or dual cp3 set up. I like the 2003-2005 because they have the NV5600 transmission and I think the interior is more comfortable. My truck is 700-750hp with a similar set up to what I recommended and I tow with it quite often. Anywhere from sea level over 10,000ft elevation. I've pulled light and really heavy loads and my truck never misses a step.
 
#11 ·
Ok guy great . Some comments I was lookig for now some more questions.

For the twins you all agree head studs but also would you guys suggest oring the heads with that ?

Any good single turbo setups with a 62-66mm turbo that will still spool quik and tow good without getting hot and get me in the 550-600 range ?

Also do you all suggest replace injectors or can a guy just replace nozzles ? Also why do the stock injectors always have problems ?

Again don't know the newer trucks all that well how much does a decent cp3 run to support a setup like that and what is the point of the cp3 can someone expand on that ? Are they similar to your lift pump ?

Also would anyone think it would be worth it to put a 12v in a truck ? Would it be any more reliable ?

Also on another note what are you guys Gettig for fuel milage when your not booting it ? And what all needs to be done on these trucks for deletes ?


Thanks in advance and if you guys could try answer all those questions best possible it would be appreciated !
 
#13 ·
IMO, The ultimate tow rig is an 06-07 with a 6.4 or 6.7 swap, s467.7 turbo, built 48re, exergy 10mm stroker cp3 and exergy BMS 100hp injectors. We have built several of these setups and they make a solid 650hp, smokeless, almost instant spool, 1100 max egt's. Pulls 20k like its a lawn mower.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I did build one. LOVE IT :drool2:... See my sig, works, or should I say tows like a dream.


"In my opinion": o ringing a head on a common rail is pointless. Head studs / CP-3 needs are going to be determined by current engine health and your right foot. My stock CP-3 will maintain 22,500 + on extended WOT runs w/ 45% nozzles. I re-torqued, in sequence, my stock head bolts 15% over. Unless your beating on it every mile, can't justify studs. 98% percent of what I need to get done, is all under 35 psi boost (it pulls that good).
For a CR tow rig w/ compounds, stock nozzles / injectors work very well with good programming. I only went bigger "because I wanted to :hornet:".

What the CP-3 does: what I can tell you, it takes a low pressure (10-15 psi) supply of fuel from the lift pump and coverts it to anywhere from 7,000 - 26,000 psi (approximately) for the injectors.

MPG's will be determined by your right foot. I have seen 13.5 pulling a 12K, triple slide 5th wheel. I have also seen low 11's dragging a empty car trailer (we'll just say I was in a BIG hurry :rof)

Transmission: I may not always agree with "some" items that are considered gotta haves, except this. Address your transmission (clutch if standard) or it WILL address you :splat:. I'm not "buying" one has to spend 7g's at this level. However, even trying to conserve the $$ and getting a HUGE break, still spent a decent chunk of $$$. I'll be the 1st to admit that I got lucky mine lasted as long as it did stock.

12V: Your looking at a 3rd gen right? Assuming it runs / drives? Then why????? :spank:
 
#16 ·
Head studs i would do just for the added insurance. You could do ARP 2000's for your goals.
Cp3 is the high pressure pump that feeds the fuel rail. The reason people recommend a stroker or dual cp3 set up is because with the bigger injectors the stock cp3 will have problems flowing enough to keep up with fuel demands.
Injectors- If they are low miles you could just do nozzles if high miles I would look at full injectors. My suggestion is go big on your injectors and dial the tuning back. That way you aren't maxed out on tuning trying to pull with the power you want.
Turbo-there are some good singles that would be in your power range but for towing you just can't beat a set a compounds.
Deletes-2003-2005 only have a cat depending on model in the 2003-2004's, 2004.5-2005 all have a cat. 2006 and up I'm not sure somebody else will chime in.
Fuel mileage is going to be all over the board with driving habits etc etc. My set up I can get 22-23mpg hand calculated empty (25mpg once in a great while). Towing the lowest I've gotten was 15mpg pulling a triple Axel toy hauler fully loaded.
 
#18 ·
Ok well guys thanks for all the help and all the info was useful ill research cp3s a bit more and I've had enough trucks ill be getting a standard and a dd will come first then mods.

Also so most of you agree if I'm my running it hard all the time even with twins I don't need to stuf and oring ?
 
#19 · (Edited)
You don't need to o ring. Just do head studs, springs, and rods if you want. Some guys say you don't need studs I personally think it's good insurance especially running higher boost levels. Do it right and do it once IMO.
As far as CP3's Motorsport Diesel and Exergy both build the best stroker pumps. I wouldn't even look at any others if you're going with a modded single. For dual pumps motorsport and anarchy have the best set up IMO. Good luck
 
#20 ·
I'm guessing O-ringing was popular with the 12v & 24v engines but not with the 5.9 CR's. Now I've seen about 40% of the guys with 6.7's going back to o-ringing. Personally I wouldn't do it. A good set of studs torqued down and your good. Just my opinion and since I had a head gasket issue, I'd look into H11's or 625's. The arp2000's didn't like the added air and fuel.
 
#21 ·
My buddy has an 05 we put a 66/83 compound system on creates 88 psi with h11s a 24 valve gasket and fire rings studs are from like 06 er 07 I believe. He blew it out after we put the twins on just put a new 24 valve gasket in place and drilled out the other oil hole on the front of the gasket because only one side was done the first time and its been great ever since.they have theyre place and the wbole 625 and wagon does t need to be done the cheaper studs can be run with great results
 
#22 ·
What do you guys think of this truck ?


2003 dodge 2500 diesel it would make a good project truck or parts body is in mint tranny, tcaes, diffs good, tires are in rough shape, the motor has a knocking sound was planing on taring down and fixing tuning out of money and no time truck has a 6" bds long arm lift kit in it fast fule system south bend single disk clutch 90 hp over stock injectors s&b cold air intake smarty junior programmer 210 hp chip I'm asking $ 6500

If i put in a new motor it already hass a smarty fass and south bend single disk and 90 hp injectors. Add new motors use those mods and add twins and i got the truck i want and the bodys clean and only 230000 km .
 
#23 ·
I would set some $$ aside for going through the front end as well, sounds like a nice project though IF you get it for the right price.
 
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