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Looking for a toy....

50K views 839 replies 25 participants last post by  sdeeter19555 
#1 ·
Since there isn't a generic 1st gen section, I posted here...move if inappropriate.

After a eight year break, I'm back in the market for a Cummins, and I decided I want a 1st gen truck. This is a toy, will be a (sometimes) daily driver, haul the occasional load of firewood, and mostly just something to cruise around in...

Now I'm not new to Cummins or Dodge, I've owned a 95 12 valve, two 99 24 valves, and my last truck was a 04.5 600. The 3rd gen was the only one I ever really mod'd (well north of $10k worth, and hardly any of that was engine mods). Traded the 04.5 on a 2012 Silverado 2500hd gasser and have never really looked back...the 04.5 really soured me on any newer Dodge with it's ball joint and steering quirks, injector issues, finicky nv5600, etc.

Recently sold my 1953 M37 that I knew I would never get around to restoring, and decided I could handle working on a truck that was already running and driving. I've got my eye on a 1990 w250 std cab that is mostly stock and has about 160k miles. Owner claims the engine has never been touched short oil changes and filters. It is an auto, which wasn't my first choice (but it is a toy). The truck looks solid from photos I've seen, it looks to have a 4 inch lift and 35s?

What do I need to watch for on these years?

I want to remember that cab supports and rockers are typical rust spots, also the drivers floor at the right heel is a prone spot for rust, any other hidden spots. And I want to remember the top of the windshield is prone to rust?

What can I expect to need servicing on the engine? Do the injectors, lift pump, injection pump cause issues at that mileage?

The current owner said it has 3.55 rears, I thought all the 727 trucks had 3.08 in the D61/D71?

And because I can't find any definite info, what is the towing capabilities of a 727/3.08 truck?

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#149 ·
A quickie measurement using some boards against the front tires...98-1/4" front and 97-1/4" rear. That's roughly an inch difference between six inches in front of the tire to six inches behind the tire...and toe out.

So once the weather clears, I will jack up the front, get it perfectly straight, get it adjusted better with a slight toe in, and see if it drives better...

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#151 ·
Added some side boxes tonight...picked these up for $25...

Not enough daylight to do a lot during the week, just keep plugging away with little things. Might try getting the tailgate mocked up and hung...



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#152 ·
Well, took it to work today, about 100 miles round trip. Overall good experience...the wander is better and the brakes have stopped hanging up (maybe they just needed driven?)...developed an oil leak on the driver side of the engine (back by the crossmember) that in need to figure out.

I've decided the next step is kingpins, whether they need it or not (pretty sure they need it), then little stuff till spring. Then I will order a redhead and full 2.5 or 4 inch skyjacker with all new springs and bushings. Once that's done, have it aligned. Until then I will drive it locally on the back roads and maybe once in a while to work...it's not a primary driver, so no big deal to wait.

Overall, only scared one old lady in a Subaru today...must not have liked the thought of me following her! The thing does good on fuel for sitting on 35s...a lot better than my 2500hd Silverado does in stock form.

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#153 ·
Took my mud flaps off, primed and painted the bracket and reinstalled that today.

Installed these aluminum hoop steps I bought months ago on amazon prime day...turned out good.

Pulled the rear driveshaft to grease ujoint and found the yoke loose on the NP205. Read up a little in an old Chilton's and they basically stated to torque to 138 pounds. The tricky part was the 1-5/16" socket. Not sure what that actually means...wear, just loose?

I cut the vent door down so I could get rid of the draft...that went good, turned out well. The biggest hurdle was reaching some of the screws.

I readjusted the doors, WOW that was a major improvement. My only issue is I can't get the driver's door pushed rearward far enough. I'm thinking I'm going to take it to a body shop and have it done...

And the absolute most incredible thing happened today, my Wife went for a ride with me in my "hunk of junk" today!

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#154 ·
Ok, I attempted to insert a pintle hitch in the receiver and it wouldn't go, the shoulders are too square. What does everyone else do, grind the pintle hitch to fit?

This same pintle has fit fine in every other receiver on every other truck I've owned. Can't change the receiver, the PO welded it on, boxed the frame, etc...

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#155 ·
Well, determined my leak is the windshield...it's leaking like a sieve between the glass and the gasket, body to gasket is good. So I got to get that sealed...watched it running in as I was driving in the rain today.

I did experience something interesting with my wild steering...the steering won't center going down the road, but backing up it will straighten right out! So I'm guessing the caster is out of whack...as well as too much toe in.

Overall, it's to miserable to do any real work...I'm going to work on door panels, painting the emblems, headache rack, winch mount, and the like.



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#156 ·
Well, I've been in the middle of stuff...I bought a fairly decent 60 gallon compressor probably 15 years ago, but it was up at my Parent's place. I traded him my smaller 20 gallon compressor since he really doesn't have a need for this one any longer. Ok, that's nice, except it's 220vac and I have four slots in an smallish and junk breaker box. So I've been installing a new subpanel in the garage to replace the junk that was installed...got that done today, took me about a week working a few nights and whatnot. I went from four slots to eight (small garage), wired up the compressor, installed a new outlet inside, and installed an weatherproof outlet on the exterior (standalone circuits), and installed a ground rod. Should suffice until I build a new garage...

So I took the compressor for a spin today, what a difference that makes! Took the time to cut off the weird Chevy latches and hinges that were welded in for the (louvered?) tailgate. So I can actually install my tailgate now! It is so nice having that bigger compressor, I wish I would have had it when I was doing my springs last fall...

I have a couple questions...

Where was the top of the strap located on the bed? They cut my nub off, I will need to fabricate something. I need to get a set of straps or a set of cables eventually.

Did the gate pivot points have any bushings or were they steel on steel? It's been long enough that I forget how they were done...all the newer stuff has a plastic bushing.

Were there any rubber bumpers the gate rested against? Again, mine are all missing...

I've been driving this truck quite a bit, my Silverado has developed a slight lifter tick at idle (like one bleeding down), so I've been leaving it sit until after Christmas to put it in the shop...175k, it's probably time for some issues to show.

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#157 ·
my Silverado has developed a slight lifter tick at idle (like one bleeding down), so I've been leaving it sit until after Christmas to put it in the shop...175k, it's probably time for some issues to show.

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I’ve seen this a few times. Before you tear into it and as long as it has good oil pressure put a can of marvel mystery oil or sea foam in the oil and run it for an hour or so then change the oil. That has freed up any stuck lifter I’ve run into.
 
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#159 ·
Well, been doing little things here and there...

Today I took the top of the AFC of and found a batch of stuff...I pulled that plastic spacer on the advice of someone on forums. It runs better now...it runs clean, even with that pin (someone said it was a Denny T stage 2?). Anyone tell me anything specific about what I have? The red/green spring? The pin is kinda obvious. Any idea of a builder that does all the red tamper-evident marks?

I found an LE tailgate, but as I indicated a while ago...someone cut off the nubs for the tailgate supports and welded on some oddball latch. I figured out that nub is a rivet, and I drove it out with a punch leaving a nice 7/16" hole. I then took a 7/16" bolt, a washer, and a piece of a brass fitting (to act as a spacer) and bolted the one support strap I have to the body. Turned out perfect! So I made a second one for the other side for when i find another strap...

I also put a drop pitman arm on today...that was a pain. Forgot that was a pressed fit and that you had to pull the box loose to get a puller on it...that made the drag link completely flat. I also got my steering wheel centered at the same time.


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#161 ·
I pulled the overload springs, the Helwigs, and that made a big improvement in steering, I think the rear suspension was so stiff, it was forcing the front suspension to do weird things. I think the shocks are maxed out also, with the added blocks, so the suspension can only really compress but not extend.

Still not perfect, but tolerable. Rides a little better too...

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#166 ·
I also did this little modification.

I had noticed water off the hood drained onto the voltage regulator and I have an old voltage regulator (from an older truck) that is swelled because it started to rust underneath because it was getting wet.

It is simply a piece of oil jug pinched between the cowl and cab, held in place by that single screw. You can see the water marks tracing down that cover already.

Cost - zero


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#167 ·
Keep an eye out for water dripping on #6 injector when the hood is opened.

I usually relocate the VR to the left fender (roughly the area where 92-93 trucks have their relays). This has the added benefit of it being away from exhaust manifold heat.
 
#169 ·
I installed that Dodge Connection steering brace, that was fairly straight forward short their instructions are way off for a w250 (4x4). Bolts are 9/16" and 7/16"...no drilling was required on my w250.

Truck is sidelined right now, I'm trying to salvage the turn signal lever "stalk" that is broken. I tried to remove it per FSM instructions, but to no avail. I did determine it is broken into three pieces: stalk, upper screw tab, lower screw tab. I used some superglue to get the pieces fitted. I then cut a piece of heavy sheet metal and bent it into an "L", drilled a hole for the screw, put a curve in it to match the stalk, and installed it under a screw. I then mixed up some JB Weld and epoxied that whole thing together (stalk, metal brace, base). I need to mix a touch more epoxy tonight, I am going to put a brace between the stalk and the metal switch to keep the stalk from rocking back when using the dimmer.

Hopefully this will limp me along for a while...once this dies, I will convert to heavy duty toggle switches for the turn signals and the wipers, and put the dimmer on the floor.

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#172 ·
I also made lower kick panels for the doors from some leftover aluminum diamond plate, this will make those steel door panels work (the aluminum covers the speaker and vent holes)...

This truck had snaps on the grill, so I ordered some snaps, drilled and installed them in some ABS sheet, and snapped them on. Truck actually runs warmer now!


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#175 ·
Got started on my wiring relays today. I had ran a weather tight 1" conduit front to rear, filled that with multiple wires, terminate everything in a box at the rear. The idea was run a trigger from the rear lights, trigger a relay for each circuit, then return the signal to the rear for the trailer lights.

Hooked up some LEDs under the tailgate with the new wiring...plan to hook up the 7-way tomorrow and ultimately a headache rack with lights.


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#177 ·
I did a little work today, adjusted the valves.

Intakes were all almost 0.010" loose, the exhaust was pretty much dead on except one which was a little tight.

Now I got a leak on the back valve cover...I took it off, cleaned it, it's still soft and pliable, and reinstalled...hopefully that seals it. (Note - it did reseal after reinstalling)

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#178 ·
Started the winch mount and brush guard today...got the main base cut out, welded, and mocked in place. The winch plate is from Harbor Freight and is the only thing I bought, the rest is scrounged scrap.

Will cut the ends of the winch plate down and weld it to the base, cut side plates out of some old diamond plate steps, and use some 1.5 inch pipe to fab a brush guard.

I still have a couple tabs to make and weld on and a few struts from the back to the frame to make it secure enough to use...

I'm deciding whether to use an old Ramsey proplus 9000, take the 12k Warn off my Silverado, or go buy a 12k Badlands....I'd rather not pull the Warn from my Silverado.


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