Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

221 - 240 of 251 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #221
Figured out the Amsoil Severe Gear doesn't play well with the D70 LSD, got a scrubbing in a turn under load. I've got a bottle of Mopar additive to throw in it when it quits raining
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #222
Super-duty cooler is mounted...one point to note, if you are installing one of these, make sure you get the bracket as far in towards the frame as possible or it will interfere with the body. There is not much room to work with and I set my mounting holes before the aluminum end plates were installed...so I was very tight. The hose is just a short loop to keep the cooler clean while I wait on a fitting.

I also installed a baffle to keep the rear tire from flinging stuff up onto the top of the cooler/fan.

904675
904676
904677
904678
20200430_081126.jpg
20200430_081107.jpg
20200430_081044.jpg
20200430_081052.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #223
Well, my oil pressure was, and has been, odd to say the least on the factory gauge. I've replaced the sending unit and no change. I had installed a mechanical gauge in the filter head, and it showed something like 25psi hot idle and 60psi hot mid RPM.

But then I had a sudden shocking thought, maybe the factory gauge reads differently than the filter head! Maybe the factory gauge isn't really wrong...

So I went out, pulled the mechanical gauge and swapped it for the sending unit...30psi warm idle and 65psi warm mid RPM. So they are probably the same, or at least close...

And I don't have an oil problem...one less worry...

And a side request...if you change universal joints, please make sure you install the zerk in the correct orientation. It will make the next guy glad you did when he doesn't have to pull the driveshaft to grease the flipping joints...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #224
Got the super-duty cooler plumbed today...haven't been doing much as work has been busy.

The factory lines are 1/2" steel...so 1/2" hose works well. I was going to pull a fitting, cut the hard line, and install this between the primary cooler and the transmission. Well, the PO had cut the hardline and installed a short piece of hose. Turned out that splice was after the engine mounted cooler and made a good place to tie in, so my circuit is transmission - engine mounted cooler - super duty cooler - primary cooler - transmission. Still need to wire it to a switch.

I took it for a ride, got to just over 150, so I put a jumper to the fan relay and watch the temp drop to 120 in a few minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
Finally, after waiting over two months and changing the order, I got my springs today. Missing the hardware, but I got springs! I asked originally ordered a d200cdk which had 4-inch rear springs...the rear springs held up my order. Then two months in, I asked if they had a d292cdk, which has 6-inch rear springs (one inch rise in the rear)...bingo, shipped the same day. Hopefully, the hardware kit shows in the next couple days.

So that will be a new project in a couple weeks...got some concrete work on the patio to do now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #227
Well, storms stymied me tonight...

Driver's side front went easy, passenger's side front bolt was frozen and the shackle was stiff.

I got the passenger's shackle lubed up and working nice...then got rained out. Put new STUDS in the passenger's side instead of bolts, just need to mount the spring, snug everything up, and set it on the ground. Should have the front done tomorrow night...the rears on Saturday/Sunday.
906536
906537
906538
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #228
Oh, and to rehash my handling quirkiness from months ago...

The front spring bushings were pretty much crushed, they hadn't completely separated, bit they were sad. On top of that, I did figure out the shocks were completely extended and that was causing the suspension to limit down travel, so imagine a rolling wavy road, the frame had to flex to make up the fact the suspension had no travel.

Couple that with the same issue on the rear, and well....quirky handling.

And while I bought complete kingpin rebuild kits, I also bought just the top bushings, new springs, and gaskets. I think that is my tire wear (the bushings are worn). That's next...as a side note, WFO sells the weld-on king pin removal tool and the spring studs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #229
Well, I was defeated...not really, just not worth fighting it. The rear spring bolts are seized to the bushing, couldn't even turn them with a 36 inch breaker bar or a IR impact. Thought about breaking out the gas hatchet, but decided against it. So I'll let the local garage deal with it when they do the injectors (got at least one noisy one). The fronts went fairly easy too...

I'm going to do the kingpin bushings tomorrow to get an idea of what is going on there...finish some wiring.

I did buy a matched D61/D71 and NP205 today, got to run after it next weekend. So short another Cummins, I have a complete spare drivetrain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #230
I pulled the kingpin caps, bushings were in pieces but not worn...kingpins themselves looked new, not a thing wrong with them.

I installed new kingpin bushings and bushing springs and buttoned it back up.

I took it for a quick ride...it's WORSE than it was with regards to road manners. It chases the road surface...sucks up bumps well, rides nice, bit it has a mind of it's own. own. Once I get the rear springs installed later this week, I'll have it aligned...hopefully that cures it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #231
Well, took it to a shop for the injectors, went from "maybe $600" during the original quote to over $1000 when he got it in the shop...told him I would do it myself. Obviously he caters to the "performance" crowd and lost me (and anyone that asks me) as a customer forever. If you didn't want the work, then don't offer...

I found a set of axles (d61/d71), an NP205, and a crossmember from a 90...they aren't perfect, but they are good parts. Was an afternoon of driving, but the load cost me less than what I've seen just the rear D71 go for...
906935
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #232
Well, found most of the quirky handling was my fault. I realized I tightened everything up while the suspension was unloaded. I loosened everything the other day (just the shackle and spring bolts, not the axle bolts) while it sat on the ground, cycled the suspension the best I could by bouncing the front end up and down, and retorqued everything. The test ride was night and day different...most of my issues now stem from the stiff rear springs and the need for an alignment.

As for the rear springs, I was going to have the diesel shop do that when they did the injectors...not happening now. So I did some thinking and bought a couple arbors and a pack of 4-inch abrasive cutoff wheels for my die grinder. I had already tried the sawzall and, while I have bought extra blades for it for this effort, didn't have real good luck with it on the front bolt (it worked, but marginally; I actually finished with a 4.5 inches inch grinder with a cutoff wheel). That will give me enough depth and the control to cut the bolts off inside the hangers without damage to the hanger. That's to come this weekend, maybe.

I'm planning to swap exhaust manifolds Saturday, mine is shrunk quite a bit and I don't want it to break the ears off the head...have had all the pieces for months, just been busy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,230 Posts
I've had good luck removing broken bolts like that with a torch, get the bolt cherry red and then lightly put the oxygen to it keeping it on the bolt center. The hot bolt will run out usually enough to take a small chisel to tap the remaining of the top ones out. The bottom bolts you'll have to try to melt out most of the bolts and then find something close to the size of the melted hole and unscrew the remaining bolt. Then run a tap through the theads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sdeeter19555

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #235
I've had good luck removing broken bolts like that with a torch, get the bolt cherry red and then lightly put the oxygen to it keeping it on the bolt center. The hot bolt will run out usually enough to take a small chisel to tap the remaining of the top ones out. The bottom bolts you'll have to try to melt out most of the bolts and then find something close to the size of the melted hole and unscrew the remaining bolt. Then run a tap through the theads.
Someone said to weld a nut onto the bit sticking out...until these recommendations, I was going to drill them out (I have some left handed drills) and easy-out them out.

I'm going to try the weld trick tomorrow, then heat them hot and see if they would back out.

Those are metric threads correct?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,230 Posts
Someone said to weld a nut onto the bit sticking out...until these recommendations, I was going to drill them out (I have some left handed drills) and easy-out them out.

I'm going to try the weld trick tomorrow, then heat them hot and see if they would back out.

Those are metric threads correct?

The weld a nut trick works also just let the weld cool before removing and while it's hot and cooling spray with some penetrating oil. Also on the top ones you could probably easy out them and just heat the ears up a little.

The bad thing about easy outs on that small of bolts if it breaks off in there it's harder to heat it up and melt the bolt out. Yes it'll be metric just like all the other bolts on the engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sdeeter19555

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #237
The weld a nut trick works also just let the weld cool before removing and while it's hot and cooling spray with some penetrating oil. Also on the top ones you could probably easy out them and just heat the ears up a little.

The bad thing about easy outs on that small of bolts if it breaks off in there it's harder to heat it up and melt the bolt out. Yes it'll be metric just like all the other bolts on the engine.

The weld a nut trick works also just let the weld cool before removing and while it's hot and cooling spray with some penetrating oil. Also on the top ones you could probably easy out them and just heat the ears up a little.

The bad thing about easy outs on that small of bolts if it breaks off in there it's harder to heat it up and melt the bolt out. Yes it'll be metric just like all the other bolts on the engine.
I ordered a metric tap and die set and a couple spare taps. I figure I will end up chasing threads and (while I have drawers full of SAE taps and dies) I don't have a single metric tap or die.

The exhaust manifold bolts are m10x1.5 and the small bolts through the rest of the engine (like the timing cover) are m8x1.25), in case anyone else needs that info.

I'm going to try welding a nut on these tomorrow, add a little heat with the torch, and see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #238
Well, ended up drilling all four bolts out and re-threading the holes.

Bought an entire metric tap set and a handful of spare taps because I didn't have a single metric tap.

Chased all the other holes (and they were bad/rusty)...bought a pair of Chinese m10 taps and one did the entire thing and is still sharp, which is pretty good considering how hard rust is on taps.

I'll remount the manifold tonight, get it put back together.
907405

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #239
Well, manifold back together...

Got an older poor condition ram's head to sport around (painted it black)...got my badges cut in and mounted.

Now I have a PS leak, which I think is the pump shaft...how hard it that to pull (looks easy)? What happens when you slip the shaft out of the diaphragm deal?

907494
907495
907496
907497
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Discussion Starter #240
I went after a seat today, the bench I have is red and the driver's side is pretty rough. I bought a gray seat (will match the interior) that was in goo shape and has headrests (current seat doesn't).

And after many weeks, I got the offroad lights and the super-duty cooler wiring finished (needed the cab/switches to relays wiring).

I'm planning to drop the trans pan tomorrow, check things out, change the filter (trans was dirty)...refill with Hy-Guard.

Start on the rear springs next week
 
221 - 240 of 251 Posts
Top