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Discussion Starter #202
Took the front bumper off, easier to work on...rust converter on the back for now.

Cut the fenders where the PO cut them with a torch...

Also got my CB antenna mounted and coax ran...


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Discussion Starter #203
Well, been told to stay home...so working from home and getting work on the the truck.

Little perturbed that my Skyjacker lift is MIA...they keep extending it a week, it's been a month now (I was told when I ordered I would have it in days). So much for supporting small businesses, Summit Racing had them in stock and I would have had it in two days.

Got the brush guard painted, turned out well.

Had to work the front bumper over, it was easier to take off and sit on stands. Coated the interior with rust converter and rustoleum and primed and painted the outside (just finished today). I'll put it on t ok day, plan a trip out to NJ tomorrow to do a site visit (my employer is considered essential).

While I had the bumper off, I trimmed the front fender where the PO had cut them back with a torch.

And I started on the LE panel...still need to wet sand inland put another coat on, got some little air bubbles in it.


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Discussion Starter #204
I may just install that LE panel and strip it down again at a later date (and go lime green)...

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Discussion Starter #206
Tried sanding that red out and it just wasn't making me happy...so I stripped it and started over. Taped it up, cut it out this time, and sprayed it lime green...

I think it turned out better...


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Discussion Starter #207
Well, got the body mounts done...but not without issues. The body mounts were straight forward enough, but now my doors act funny...the passenger's works very nice now, but the driver's is all out of whack. I'd never buy another Prothane component, their instructions suck to the point they are pretty much useless. The original mounts were in bad shape though...

While I had the radiator out for those front bushings, I did the motor mounts...

Put it all back together, even got the brush guard remounted.

I will say, it definitely vibrates and rattles more with the harder body bushings and harder motor mounts (the old ones were almost gooey).


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Discussion Starter #208
I took the time to install a power steering cooler and filter (Magnefine) today...I had an old aftermarket tube and fine cooler from my Silverado that I pulled for a much larger Tru-cool. It was a fairly straightforward install...couple holes for bolts and two for hoses. I remember overheating one of these PS units offroading one time, so figured it wouldn't hurt...

I then went through my 22 year old Ramsey winch electronics and got that wired up. Which turned into a mess at the battery when the clamp broke...had to improvise. Have. Working 9000 pound winch now. I only got to make two small struts out of angle iron to tie the winch frame into the truck frame at another point further back. Should be a hour project...



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Discussion Starter #209
And I fixed the turn stop that was broken off the drivers side knuckle...

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Discussion Starter #210
Almost too light of a green...the dark green is the base for the camouflage.


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Discussion Starter #211
Just giving an update on the UPol bedliner floor, still looks good roughly nine months later.

If you don't want a carpet that holds water or something that is difficult to clean, this is a viable solution.


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Discussion Starter #212 (Edited)
Well, the body mounts twisted my driver's door out of whack so far that the top edge was hitting the drip rail. I tried adjusting the hinges, but there wasn't enough adjustment to make it work. I ended up adding body washers under the upper hinge to get it to settle down to where it fit decent. It actually closes nicer now than it did before. And the body mounts did the opposite to the passenger side, it closes nicer now than it did before.

I changed the rear differential today...the fluid wasn't horrible, quite a bit on the magnet...but that's where I have a quandary. I'm not sure the cover has ever been off, it has what I think is the original sealant (orange)? I almost wonder if they drained the fluid through the cover? Gear looked good, no big chunks, cleaned up well...it does have a limited slip, and those gears looked good. I used some 75w140 Amsoil Severe Gear in the rear since it plays well with the limited slips and my other gear oils don't...

Based on that, I'm wondering just how many miles this thing has on it...

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Discussion Starter #213
Changed the transfercase fluid today, pulled the PTO cover, surprisingly clean and gears looked good.

I glued a magnet to the cover (between the gray RTV and the magnet itself, it won't ever move) and buttoned it back up. Filled it with 75w140 Schaefer's #167, will leave it sit overnight and take it for a spin tomorrow morning.


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Discussion Starter #214 (Edited)
Pulled the front cover this afternoon, fluid looked like new, crystal clear. Housing was nice an clean...but again, it looked like original sealant and there was no indication that cover had ever been off.

Ground the cover all down and primed it, I'll finish it in green tomorrow, may spray it olive drab since I have a couple cans of that and I have no intent on using it on the body (you would never see it here).

I was remembering there was a magnet attached to the cover? No magnet anywhere on this d61.

I'll refill with Schaeffer's 167 tomorrow...mental note, don't refill 75w140 when it's 35 degrees outside, took nearly two hours to gravity fill...

 

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Discussion Starter #215
Started the Super-duty cooler reconditioning...it's rusty, has some minor rot; but still completely serviceable. I'm not worrying about the rot, I'm going to stop it with rust converter and then encapsulate it...it's under the bed, no one will see it.

The fan is the only active part number, it cross references a Jeep XJ cooling fan...I'm going to replace the fan (this one still works) just because.

I figure this will be a good summer install project...


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Discussion Starter #216

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Discussion Starter #217
Started priming and painting the super duty cooler mount.

Some better picture of the cooler...it looks like it is a three pass stacked plate (three sections of stacked plates). It has two 1/2" hose barbs and a 1/2" NPT for the thermostatic switch. It is a Long, which is why the H7B I have matches the this one physically (it just has two 1/2" NPT fittings). I'm going to use the H7B and sell the original cooler since that H7B fits my application better.

And the fan is an standard Jeep deal...


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Discussion Starter #218
Super-duty cooler with a Long H7B cooler fitted and assembled...just need two fittings, hose, and four well nuts to finish it. Even got the holes drilled in the crossmembers.
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Discussion Starter #219
I cut out a piece of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate for a tailgate protector...I had the plate so I used it.

This plate is surprisingly hard for aluminum; sawzall wouldn't cut it, ended up taking an abrasive wheel in a angle grinder to cut it...not sure what it is.

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Discussion Starter #220
Gauges...got these for a pretty decent deal on Amazon.

I see about 1100 degrees at WOT under load, 400 just idling, and 700 just tooling around...am
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I remembering right that 1250 is a max continuous EGT for this generation?

Just driving I'm seeing zero boost, under a slight hill around under 5 psi, and WOT under load around 22...

Never had mechanical gauges before, all my other trucks that did have gauges were through the ECM and may not have been true.
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