Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all. Just sold my 3rd Gen and looking to pick up a 1st Gen just so I have a truck around the place to help with chores/hauling off trash. Been searching for answers to questions and not coming up with much.

It would appear that I am looking for the same truck that everyone else is looking for, 92 or 93 extended cab W250 manual trans......and boy are people proud of that combination $$$$$. That combo with less than 300,000 miles is cost prohibitive for me. So....

I did find through searching that I don't want to buy an auto and try to convert it to a manual. I would basically need another parts truck to get everything I need, again making it cost prohibitive.

I will settle for a standard cab instead of extended cab, so that will save some cash. Also, I don’t need 4X4, just like the aggressive stance with higher suspension. That brings me to my first question....if I pick up a 2X with manual trans, would it be possible to put a lift kit on it to make it look like a 4X4? There are no lift kits available for a 2X2 that I can find, but I assume a 4X4 lift kit would fit a 2X2 of the same year. Any insight? Barking up the wrong tree? That would need to be possible and inexpensive to be an option for me.

Second question. Prices come down considerably, cut by as much as half, when the trucks reach 350,000 miles. Why is that? Something I should know about? I have found a few trucks, W250 manual trans extended cab, that appear to be in decent shape and are quite affordable, but they all have over 350,000 miles.

Lastly, I am finding a lot of trucks that are what I want, in good shape, with a good price, that have flat beds on them. It appears that finding a long bed to swap out is not a problem...I see them listed in various places cheap. Is there an issue taking off a flat bed and replacing it with a regular long bed? Bolt right up?

That about wraps it up. Again, I am just trying to figure out how to do this affordably, i.e., pick up a 92/93 extended cab manual 2X2 flat bed with 350,000 plus miles for $1,500 to $2,000. For another $1500 I could lift it, add AT tires and a long bed and I would end up with what I want for $3,500 or less. Possible or am I looking at this wrong?
 

·
1ST GEN MODERATOR
Joined
·
16,269 Posts
I assume a 4X4 lift kit would fit a 2X2 of the same year.
No way. A $X$ uses standard leaf spring configuration. The 2X4 is a coil springs with A arms. About the only way to lift is with heavier coil springs or air bags. Eather way would also be hard on front end parts running them out of the design range.

Prices come down considerably, cut by as much as half, when the trucks reach 350,000 miles. Why is that
The engine is a medium duty rating. that means a 300k life span. The Dodge shipping crate wraped around the Cummins isn't rated for that milage. If the service and repairs are not kept up on the truck during that 300K+ miles. Your looking at a very worn and tired chassis. That could turn into a massive money pit if you have to farm the work out to a commerical shop.

Is there an issue taking off a flat bed and replacing it with a regular long bed? Bolt right up?
The bed is bolted down to L brackets riveted to the frame in front of the rear axle. If someone didn't remove those brackets. A P/U bed will bolt back down with now issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
why are you looking for a 1st gen specifcally?
there's a better following for second gens for aftermarket
it does seem that eveyone is looking for a first gen
just wondering
ch
 

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
why are you looking for a 1st gen specifcally?
there's a better following for second gens for aftermarket
it does seem that eveyone is looking for a first gen
just wondering
ch
I like the look, they are different and you don't see one at every stop light, plus I haven't owned a 1st Gen yet. I purchased a 95 single cab long bed new and drove it until I purchased my 03 new.
 

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Not really the answers I wanted to hear. Takes a lot of cost saving options off the table.
 

·
1ST GEN MODERATOR
Joined
·
16,269 Posts
I know that wasn't what you wanted to hear. But like any older vehicle. If it hasn't been maintained. It can hit you hard if you have to farm out work. Just about any shop I know of is at least $50 an hour. A lot are around $100. an hour. It doesn't take much to run a large bill up. One bad break down could be the price difference between a cheap high milage truck and a low to medium milage truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
I think a few things to consider are:

1. There is a difference between a cab and chassis truck that has a flatbed and a standard longbed truck with the bed removed and a flatbed installed. Apparently it can be more than 6 inches in some cases, and the wheels can be in different places.

2. A well taken care of truck with 400k could be a better truck than one with 150k and terrible maint.

3. Considered just a body lift? Enough to get it off the ground and some bigger tires under it? That'd get the look you're talking about.

4. While the crew cabs look cool, and you'd think they'd offer more room, it isn't the same as a 2nd gen+ crew. It's got those ghey little jumpseats that fold down from the sides, rather than a full bench in the back.

5. The auto/manual swap isn't THAT bad. You sure know what you're working with when it's done. But if you can find a truck you like with a beat auto and a beat truck with a good stick, you can do it without going too far into the hole.
 

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
1. There is a difference between a cab and chassis truck that has a flatbed and a standard longbed truck with the bed removed and a flatbed installed. Apparently it can be more than 6 inches in some cases, and the wheels can be in different places.
Glad you told me that before I got myself in trouble. So, how do you tell? Can I measure from the rear of the cab to the axle maybe or is there an easier way to tell which it is just by looking at it?

2. A well taken care of truck with 400k could be a better truck than one with 150k and terrible maint.
That appears to be the direction I am heading in as I just can't pay the prices people are asking for one of these with less than 200K on it.

3. Considered just a body lift? Enough to get it off the ground and some bigger tires under it? That'd get the look you're talking about.
I hadn't considered that. Went looking and every lift kit manufacturer makes a body lift for everything from 89-93. However, everyone of these displays a note that reads "Will not fit vehicle equipped with diesel engine." Little disappointing as most of the kits were less than $150 for 3 inches of lift.

4. While the crew cabs look cool, and you'd think they'd offer more room, it isn't the same as a 2nd gen+ crew. It's got those ghey little jumpseats that fold down from the sides, rather than a full bench in the back.
Yep, I know. Growing up I would spend an entire day on one of those jump seats on a long trip. My butt still has nightmares. :hehe:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
I don't remember the exact #s, but you measure from axle to axle....or hub to hub. I want to say the standard longbed is 133, but you'll have to do a few searches here and on dtr.
 

·
1ST GEN MODERATOR
Joined
·
16,269 Posts
131" wheel base for pickups or dually's.

C&C's dually's were 135" and 159"

C&C SRW were all 131"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
691 Posts
I bought a 1992 d250 for 1200. After replacing the front drivers fender and door, 3" lift spacers off ebay, new shocks, I got a 4" exhaust on the way,bedlined all over,3rd gen wheels, 2" wheel spacers, 1 new tire as the others were pretty new,(285/70/17), new ball joints and tie rod ends and I am sure 1 or 2 missed items, I am at around $3500 and this is what she looks like and around 22mpg to boot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
691 Posts
I bought a 1992 d250 for 1200. After replacing the front drivers fender and door, 3" lift spacers off ebay, new shocks, I got a 4" exhaust on the way,bedlined all over,3rd gen wheels, 2" wheel spacers, 1 new tire as the others were pretty new,(285/70/17), new ball joints and tie rod ends and I am sure 1 or 2 missed items, I am at around $3500 and this is what she looks like and around 22mpg to boot.
 

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
That looks sharp. I like it. When you say lift spacers, I assume body lift, and not suspension lift?
 

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Give me your thoughts on this. I found a 92 Dually, manual trans, extended cab, 4X2, tons of work and upgrades (pump, ujoints, brakes...usual stuff), well taken care of, looks cherry inside and out (red on red), 265K miles when the odo quit working. Price is 4K. A little high or sound right? Odo quit working this past fall he says, so if it does have over 300K on it, it shouldn't be much over. I tried to get the price down to $3,000, but $4 was the best I could do. He is asking $5,500 for it.

On this particular truck, the speedo does not work either. After a little searching, it sounds like if the odo quits but everything else works, it is likely the gears in the rear of the assembly that can be changed out and you are usually good to go. However, if neither the odo nor the speedo work, it is usually the speedo cable coming from the trans that needs to be replaced.....and it almost sounds like this can be a difficult part to find. Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
Sounds like a reasonable deal.
92's have electric speedometers, its usually parts inside the cluster
ch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Don't the 92+ still have the same VSS as the 91.5? When my speedo/odometer quit working it was just because the VSS that screws into the tranny/transfer case had rounded off the...pin...that slides into the gear in the tranny. $25 at autozone later, she's working again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
691 Posts

·
Tech Specialist
Joined
·
2,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Awesome. Thanks for the link.

So, again, give me your thoughts. I passed on the 92 dually as the miles just scare me. Odo broke at 260 something. With the number of old campers in this guys yard, I know that truck has had a hard life and could have well over 300k on it.

Now I have a tentative deal on this truck at $6,000. Its more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't pass it up. 1993 D350 dually regular cab 5 speed. Power mirrors, locks and windows, cruise, A/C, bucket seats, tinted windows tan interrior is cherry. 93,000 miles and completley stock right down to the air filter. New paint (last year) was no rust at all. I attached a pic. Tell me what you think.....am I paying too much?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
To the above post, it seems to look well maintained from the picture. A lot of guys are gonna tell you they bought the same truck for 1500, but as these trucks are becoming more desirable and hard to find not rotted out the price is going up. It really comes down to what you want, if its what your looking for only you know how much its worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
691 Posts
I think it is too much for a 2wd. The miles are a plus, but it's worth what you are prepared to pay. If you want to own it for a while, it may be worth it, but if you plan to play with it and then turn it, it is too much. I would really check the front end, as that is the weakest link and costs around $1000 to fix.
Good Luck
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top