[afterburn549]

This is why I like dealing with people that actually rebuild the pumps.
Directly.
With no middleman to deal with, you either get an honest answer or not and learn to trust or not.
With a middleman?
Who knows ....
The blame is shifted back and forth
The middleman gets told by the rebuilder he will not get a wholesale price if he does not buy enough.
Or some other crap-. Like it is on him to take the hit in the cash drawer or not .
This makes the sellers in the middle a little reticent to go to bat for the customer
If they are not going to prorate or adjust the price on the pump, you can yank the spool out yourself and inspect it as it is not difficult
(youtube)

 

[bigfish95971]

That is-why I used to like getting mine done locally at a major old injection shop in farm country in Ca. But they wanted to take mine, hold it 3 days and then give me somebody else's core after rebuilding it instead of mine I did not want the 3 day wait for some other core. They were floating cores and not stocking them. So I went to O'reilly's for a new overnight one built by Standard AKA Borg Warner. with lifetime warranty through local store. Bought at $300 off for price match.

 

[mixerkw1477]

I’ve been driving mine for 16 years with it throwing the p0216 code. Got used to the cold dead pedal issue cuz once it warms up it runs fine.
towing various trailers and never a failure in 16 years.
I reckon I’m just lucky eh??😎

 

[Bgcoop8784]

I’ve been driving mine for 16 years with it throwing the p0216 code. Got used to the cold dead pedal issue cuz once it warms up it runs fine.
towing various trailers and never a failure in 16 years.
I reckon I’m just lucky eh??😎

I can drive it like this, lol, but its a new(to me) build. I want to get it code free and no cold pedal issues. If if actually had dead pedal, i wouldn't mind just ordering a new VP44, but even cold I can drive it, it just has reduced power, pretty sure its something to do with the timing from the vp44. I am going to double check my vp44 keyway installation and go over all my grounds again this weekend. If i cant find the issue, I'll just swap the vp44 with one off a running truck to test it.

 

[bigfish95971]

Damaged o sheared key can cause timing issue but not sure about the warm/cold thing, I imagine the warm cold thin is about the size of mechanical parts when cold vs hot.

some reading and pics.

Diesel Bob (UK) Ltd - What Goes Wrong?

For the owner, driver of any diesel powered vehicle who wants the best from their vehicle. Offering the ultimate diesel engine tuning as well as a diesel fuel injection service. Repairs and reconditioning of injectors and diesel pumps, suppliers of diesel fuel system parts and additives

www.dieselbob.co.uk

 

[Bgcoop8784]

well not much has changed, i've checked all grounds and sensors, even tried an IAT fooler just for the heck of it. I have watched on the live scan tool and it literally comes to life when the engine hits 132F. So pretty much, when I first crank the truck cold, it has full throttle response. It runs fine with no codes while it idles when cold. If i touch the throttle at all while it is below 132F it will throttle up fast and perfect like it should, but if it is below 132F engine temp is will go into a "limp mode" "lazy pedal" about 30-45 secs after touching the accelerator. I can drive it like this, with pretty much half power, until the temp goes past the 132 mark and it will "wake up". I can literally be in 3rd or 4th gear, pedal half way down with a temp below 132 barely passing 2000rpm and as soon as the temp rises above that 132 mark the truck will push you back into the seat as if you just floored it with no change in pedal position as if you flipped a switch. I've been cranking it all week and letting the temp get to 116 or so and then driving it, its like I flip a switch at 132 and have full power. If i crank it and let the temp go to above 132, I can leave my house and drive like normal with no issues at all. It's the same temp every time. It doesn't skip, smoke, stutter, shake, or anything. It's literally half power to full power at the exact time the temp hits 132. That's just my update so far. It may be the computer in the VP, I don't know, but its so weird that it changes at the exact same temp every time.

 

[bigfish95971]

And you have no codes with the tool?
Search here and google the term Dodge diesel "defueling". Spell different versions.
Contact Moparman1973man either here or on his site. Join his sight if need be. I think he can help.
Sounds like you have defueling by the symptoms but I do not know the answer to fix it. He likely does.

 

[Bgcoop8784]

And you have no codes with the tool?
Search here and google the term Dodge diesel "defueling". Spell different versions.
Contact Moparman1973man either here or on his site. Join his sight if need be. I think he can help.
Sounds like you have defueling by the symptoms but I do not know the answer to fix it. He likely does.

Only code is P0216, but it doesn't explain why I have perfect power when the truck first starts, even when its cold, and the power literally dies the second it throws the code, and the power literally comes back as soon as it hits 132F. I'm starting to wonder if the ECM might have had some tune on it thats causing it to defuel till it hits 132. Thank you again!

 

[jross036]

Your VP is on it's way out. That's the death code.

 

[bigfish95971]

He is correct. The 132* I am not sure about but I would guess the VP Timing piston is not responding to some signal from the ECM. Either way 216 is a bad VP. Code is pretty much definitive. last time mine went out it was cold or hot and starting. Lugging up or or load it would lose power and throw the code. Similar the last time before. VP's, even with good fuel pressure usually last 150-250k and the timing piston fails

 

[bigfish95971]

PS, you should always lead with codes if you can. We can let you know if they are usually accurate(and many are) or if there is some other likely underlying source of the problem.

 

[Bgcoop8784]

PS, you should always lead with codes if you can. We can let you know if they are usually accurate(and many are) or if there is some other likely underlying source of the problem.

I didn't have a way to scan codes at first, I figured if I wasn't getting the check engine light there was no code, I figured wrong, lol.

 

[bigfish95971]

That is a common misconception. Codes can be set in an instant. They are stored and most need to be erased and don't go away on their own, often even if repaired and symptoms gone. Some codes will be set to show a problem but no CEL unless the engine is at threat. Sometimes anluther light will trip like the ABS light.