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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It happened to me today. I was driving along and lost A LOT of power. Tryin to figure out why. Nothing popped up on the overhead, and it said system okay. Got it home and shut down, let sit for a few and restarted. Took it around the block and it seemed to have most power back.:confused013:

Any input or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no programmer, so im not sure. i have one on the way though.
 

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do the key trick, cycle your key on off 3 times and something will pop up on the odometer display, or just say done. weird that it would do that with no mods. Unless your getting a 2262 or something.
 

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When you say limp mode, what's it do? I've read some posts on it but haven't found what I'm looking for.

Mine (while driving down the road mind you) start stuttering, jerking, rpms will jump to about 3000, speed will drop to 40mph appx. My water temp jumps to about 210. I only have a ScanGuageII so I don't know what my exhaust temps are running. While it is doing this you can smell the burning smell as well. I have codes P2262 and P0000.

Mine is the same way though. Pull off the road, shut it down, let it sit for a few, restart and all is fine except for the codes.
 

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When you say limp mode, what's it do? I've read some posts on it but haven't found what I'm looking for.

Mine (while driving down the road mind you) start stuttering, jerking, rpms will jump to about 3000, speed will drop to 40mph appx. My water temp jumps to about 210. I only have a ScanGuageII so I don't know what my exhaust temps are running. While it is doing this you can smell the burning smell as well. I have codes P2262 and P0000.

Mine is the same way though. Pull off the road, shut it down, let it sit for a few, restart and all is fine except for the codes.

I had that occur 2x on my 3500. Never new what it was from. Would run like sh*t in drive or even in park and idling. I started to think it was something with the DPF (125,000 miles) on the truck. So I then just deleted that crap and it never came back.
 

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When you all delete the stuff, who does it? I mean I am good with basic mechanical stuff, but when it comes to welding a new pipe on and fabbing things, forget it. I was looking at the H&S kit but am wondering how DIY it really is.
 

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When you all delete the stuff, who does it? I mean I am good with basic mechanical stuff, but when it comes to welding a new pipe on and fabbing things, forget it. I was looking at the H&S kit but am wondering how DIY it really is.


It is a DIY kit. Pretty much if you do a Turbo Back Exhaust you unbolt the old crap and bolt in the new stuff. All the exhausts come with Clamps. You just need an impact gun to tighten the bolts. Maybe then swing it by a muffler shop and have them put some tack welds in the sections (optional). Other then that all the deletes including the EGR/EGR cooler is pretty much remove old crap put new crap on. There is even a "sticky" thread that Compcowboy did that has step by step instructions which include pictues and size of bolts, etc.

Very very simple to do. Just don't over analyze it. :thumbsup:
 

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I was looking at the H&S kit but am wondering how DIY it really is.
The kits you can purchase from the various vendors only require basic mechanical skills to install, no welding or electrical work beyond plugging in some connectors required.

DIY involves sourcing your own flange, pipe, welding, making foolers etc etc etc all of that stuff is already done on the H&S and other kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
do the key trick, cycle your key on off 3 times and something will pop up on the odometer display, or just say done. weird that it would do that with no mods. Unless your getting a 2262 or something.
did the key thing and no codes. took for a drive on interstate for about 50 miles and nothin, seems to be runnin fine now.
 
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