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I still do not see what we are working on, Year, Model, 4x4, trani, miles, options, mods.etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
To reiterate ...........(again)
If you renew all your grounds with tinned wires and lugs, solder and crimp, with proper tools
I will guarantee it will fix some of all your problems if not all.
dont skimp.
If you dont know what marine tinned is ( 2 Gauge (2 AWG) Extreme Battery Cable with Ends - Copper Extra Flexible Stranded)

this is the chunk under myLeft battery, all moldy green.
They were all really bad.
Next this cheap crimp tool works just fine from amazon
Thanks much.
I still do not see what we are working on, Year, Model, 4x4, trani, miles, options, mods.etc.
I still do not see what we are working on, Year, Model, 4x4, trani, miles, options, mods.etc.
01 Ram 2500 Laramie slt pickup lifted, levelled, raptor lp, stock otherwise, 4x4, auto, green, extended cab, built 02/00, 194k, dash pad,
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
To reiterate ...........(again)
If you renew all your grounds with tinned wires and lugs, solder and crimp, with proper tools
I will guarantee it will fix some of all your problems if not all.
dont skimp.
If you dont know what marine tinned is ( 2 Gauge (2 AWG) Extreme Battery Cable with Ends - Copper Extra Flexible Stranded)

this is the chunk under myLeft battery, all moldy green.
They were all really bad.
Next this cheap crimp tool works just fine from amazon
Please give model for crimper. Thank you!
 

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The key trick will work on some 01 sometimes, do not depend on it, uses scan tool. Yours is early one so I do not know.

Repost symptons, anything new or forgot, Details when where and how?
 

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My method-

brake clean insulation where the heat shrink goes .( As there is a release agent on the insulation.)
You want that removed with brake cleaner.
Drill the end of the TINNED lugs, put a small amount of flux on the wire, and crimp it..
Then heat it up enough to add some solder through the hole,
Now smear a bit 3M 5200 where the heat shrink goes . (comes in white or black)
Heat it on, now you will have a crimped, soldered, H20-proof, tinned lug connection on tinned wire .
This will outlast you and the truck
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Regarding code 1689 and the eight steps to check it... steps 1 and 2, skip to 3. Step 3, Voltage pin 7 is 12.3v. Step 4, test light bright on pin 6. Steps 5 through 8, cannot accomplish at this time, inability to isolate white wire and black wire. Cleaned three more grounds. Thanks and That's all, folks.
 

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12.3v? Are your batteries dead? If not you may have bad or corroded connecctins or wires somewhere. If battery voltage it should be a bout 12.6v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
12.3v? Are your batteries dead? If not you may have bad or corroded connecctins or wires somewhere. If battery voltage it should be a bout 12.6v.
Yes, that's right. Voltage was checked at batteries and is correct; should be and would be above that if truck cranked and ran. Between some trying to start and below freezing nights, the batteries go down. And a parasitic drain is very possible too. Time to upgrade battery cables. Maybe a battery charge tomorrow; another freeze this weekend.
 

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What is/was battery voltage at each battery disconnected. Should be 12.6 and not go down just sitting, regardless of temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Back to normal, update. I had rewired around the alternator and had two open connections. Got some decent crimpers, Channel Lock 909s, crimped the opens and all is well. Pump functions as it should, truck runs fine. Thanks to all for responding and for your assistance; it is much appreciated. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
What is/was battery voltage at each battery disconnected. Should be 12.6 and not go down just sitting, regardless of temps.
About 12.3 or so as I recall. Battery cables and connections were beyond bad; got complete battery wiring kit from Arizona company and installed while batteries were being recharged and all is well. Thanks again for your help.
 
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