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13 Posts
Where is the info on lift pumps?
Welcome. Be A little more specific. What do you want to know? What are you working on and trying to accomplish.
Thanks... first, rerouted black/yellow wire from passenger battery to driver side loom. Drove truck, fine. Back home, covered said wire with wire wrap. Go to crank truck, no start. No sound from lift pump (Raptor, installed some years ago by previous owner). That's my situation. My questions include: did the raptor failure kill the vp44, is the raptor the best choice for a stock truck, who has the best price for raptor, and that's enough for now. What other questions should I be asking?
We're talking an 01 stock cummins in a ram body, auto trans, 4x4, lifted.
Prior to moving wire, truck shifted erratically at around 45 mph, gradually got worse, brief periods of lost rpm, stutters, stammers, smoothouts.
That's it.
Yes, wait to start comes on. Check engine came on at first attempt to start some days ago, as described. Also at that time, test light verified power to vp44 pin 7 and ground to pin 6. I do not yet possess a pressure gauge.Does Wait to start light come on every time you turn the key to start? Make sure the lift pump is getting power from the ECM before condemning it. If getting power when you bump the starter, what is lift pump pressure at the VP or filter. If not, or very low pressure it could have taken out the VP.
Pull codes with a scan tool, not the key?
Thanks for responding. You are correct; stock lift pumps are not very good long or short term.Stock lift pump on 3rd gen ram is in the tank, like gas cars and trucks but lot less pressure. If your interested in things like FASS or Air Dog there is plenty of information on that as well. I just noticed your posting in 98.5-02 forum, I don't know for sure but I think the lift pump isn't very good or something most people go with the FASS or Air Dog for those years.
Okay, and thanks for the response. Will get what I need and let you know. Thanks again.You have to get or use a code reader. 1693 only says there is other codes, not what any mean.Check engine light will stay on with WTS light as long as the grid heaters ae drawing down the system voltage, and shut off. Itmay also stay or come on if the ECM is bad. No or late WTS light means bad ECM. Most parts stores will pull codes for you or let you use a reader in the parking lot. You can buy one for as low as 30 bucks. Do it.
All right, Bigfish... got a reader, got the codes... 1689, 1698, P0380, P0382, repeat. Interesting that the truck would not, repeat not, show the codes by holding trip reset in, Said Chek and then search, all gauges flipped halfway, then fullway, then back to all check lights lit. Now it's grounds, grounds, and more grounds and maybe check the grid heater stuff. Thank you!!You have to get or use a code reader. 1693 only says there is other codes, not what any mean.Check engine light will stay on with WTS light as long as the grid heaters ae drawing down the system voltage, and shut off. Itmay also stay or come on if the ECM is bad. No or late WTS light means bad ECM. Most parts stores will pull codes for you or let you use a reader in the parking lot. You can buy one for as low as 30 bucks. Do it.
Thanks much.To reiterate ...........(again)
If you renew all your grounds with tinned wires and lugs, solder and crimp, with proper tools
I will guarantee it will fix some of all your problems if not all.
dont skimp.
If you dont know what marine tinned is ( 2 Gauge (2 AWG) Extreme Battery Cable with Ends - Copper Extra Flexible Stranded)
this is the chunk under myLeft battery, all moldy green.
They were all really bad.
Next this cheap crimp tool works just fine from amazon
I still do not see what we are working on, Year, Model, 4x4, trani, miles, options, mods.etc.
01 Ram 2500 Laramie slt pickup lifted, levelled, raptor lp, stock otherwise, 4x4, auto, green, extended cab, built 02/00, 194k, dash pad,I still do not see what we are working on, Year, Model, 4x4, trani, miles, options, mods.etc.
Please give model for crimper. Thank you!To reiterate ...........(again)
If you renew all your grounds with tinned wires and lugs, solder and crimp, with proper tools
I will guarantee it will fix some of all your problems if not all.
dont skimp.
If you dont know what marine tinned is ( 2 Gauge (2 AWG) Extreme Battery Cable with Ends - Copper Extra Flexible Stranded)
this is the chunk under myLeft battery, all moldy green.
They were all really bad.
Next this cheap crimp tool works just fine from amazon
Yes, that's right. Voltage was checked at batteries and is correct; should be and would be above that if truck cranked and ran. Between some trying to start and below freezing nights, the batteries go down. And a parasitic drain is very possible too. Time to upgrade battery cables. Maybe a battery charge tomorrow; another freeze this weekend.12.3v? Are your batteries dead? If not you may have bad or corroded connecctins or wires somewhere. If battery voltage it should be a bout 12.6v.
About 12.3 or so as I recall. Battery cables and connections were beyond bad; got complete battery wiring kit from Arizona company and installed while batteries were being recharged and all is well. Thanks again for your help.What is/was battery voltage at each battery disconnected. Should be 12.6 and not go down just sitting, regardless of temps.