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Welcome. Be A little more specific. What do you want to know? What are you working on and trying to accomplish.
 

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2016 2500 6.7
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Stock lift pump on 3rd gen ram is in the tank, like gas cars and trucks but lot less pressure. If your interested in things like FASS or Air Dog there is plenty of information on that as well. I just noticed your posting in 98.5-02 forum, I don't know for sure but I think the lift pump isn't very good or something most people go with the FASS or Air Dog for those years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome. Be A little more specific. What do you want to know? What are you working on and trying to accomplish.

Thanks... first, rerouted black/yellow wire from passenger battery to driver side loom. Drove truck, fine. Back home, covered said wire with wire wrap. Go to crank truck, no start. No sound from lift pump (Raptor, installed some years ago by previous owner). That's my situation. My questions include: did the raptor failure kill the vp44, is the raptor the best choice for a stock truck, who has the best price for raptor, and that's enough for now. What other questions should I be asking?
We're talking an 01 stock cummins in a ram body, auto trans, 4x4, lifted.
Prior to moving wire, truck shifted erratically at around 45 mph, gradually got worse, brief periods of lost rpm, stutters, stammers, smoothouts.

That's it.
 

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Does Wait to start light come on every time you turn the key to start? Make sure the lift pump is getting power from the ECM before condemning it. If getting power when you bump the starter, what is lift pump pressure at the VP or filter. If not, or very low pressure it could have taken out the VP.
Pull codes with a scan tool, not the key?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does Wait to start light come on every time you turn the key to start? Make sure the lift pump is getting power from the ECM before condemning it. If getting power when you bump the starter, what is lift pump pressure at the VP or filter. If not, or very low pressure it could have taken out the VP.
Pull codes with a scan tool, not the key?
Yes, wait to start comes on. Check engine came on at first attempt to start some days ago, as described. Also at that time, test light verified power to vp44 pin 7 and ground to pin 6. I do not yet possess a pressure gauge.
 

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You must pull codes pull codes wiht a scan tool. many parts stoes and otherswill d it for free, or you can buy cheap one for 30-100 dollars. CEL definitely should have thrown codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for responding... pulled code this morning, just one = P1693, which google tells me is a catchall code for a multitude of bad things. Before this, checked voltage at lift pump connection, nope. Do not have pins small enough to connect pump directly to battery. Did a battery reset, no effect. Yes, check engine light continues to glow each and every time the key is turned on. No, I do not have a code reader and I cannot find any obd connection under the dash, duh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stock lift pump on 3rd gen ram is in the tank, like gas cars and trucks but lot less pressure. If your interested in things like FASS or Air Dog there is plenty of information on that as well. I just noticed your posting in 98.5-02 forum, I don't know for sure but I think the lift pump isn't very good or something most people go with the FASS or Air Dog for those years.
Thanks for responding. You are correct; stock lift pumps are not very good long or short term.
 

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You have to get or use a code reader. 1693 only says there is other codes, not what any mean.Check engine light will stay on with WTS light as long as the grid heaters ae drawing down the system voltage, and shut off. Itmay also stay or come on if the ECM is bad. No or late WTS light means bad ECM. Most parts stores will pull codes for you or let you use a reader in the parking lot. You can buy one for as low as 30 bucks. Do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You have to get or use a code reader. 1693 only says there is other codes, not what any mean.Check engine light will stay on with WTS light as long as the grid heaters ae drawing down the system voltage, and shut off. Itmay also stay or come on if the ECM is bad. No or late WTS light means bad ECM. Most parts stores will pull codes for you or let you use a reader in the parking lot. You can buy one for as low as 30 bucks. Do it.
Okay, and thanks for the response. Will get what I need and let you know. Thanks again.
 

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I get typically about 90K out of each one ( stock ones on side of the block)
I know cause i have gone through 3 in 270k
This is cheap money compared to the expensive crap that fails anyways
 
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When I put in the in tank conversion about 400k miles ago I have had no problems. First 350k was 2 of stock pump.
 
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If dodge still has he complete kit I think it was about $450. Google lists a few options in aftermarket complete conversion kits for about $950. Ebay has a bunch of cheap crap of just canisters and pumps, but I have no idea if any are good and most are not the full kits needed
 
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Oh, ok
thanx
Being the in-tank is so hard to change out, and the side of the block pump is only 125.00 bucks and less I think I will stay where I am at.
 

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Nobody is asking you to change. OP ask for options. He is right on block pumps often last only 70K, Fass and Airdog a bit more vut still fail. I can not remember omre than one or two in tank pumps failing on ours.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You have to get or use a code reader. 1693 only says there is other codes, not what any mean.Check engine light will stay on with WTS light as long as the grid heaters ae drawing down the system voltage, and shut off. Itmay also stay or come on if the ECM is bad. No or late WTS light means bad ECM. Most parts stores will pull codes for you or let you use a reader in the parking lot. You can buy one for as low as 30 bucks. Do it.
All right, Bigfish... got a reader, got the codes... 1689, 1698, P0380, P0382, repeat. Interesting that the truck would not, repeat not, show the codes by holding trip reset in, Said Chek and then search, all gauges flipped halfway, then fullway, then back to all check lights lit. Now it's grounds, grounds, and more grounds and maybe check the grid heater stuff. Thank you!!
 

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To reiterate ...........(again)
If you renew all your grounds with tinned wires and lugs, solder and crimp, with proper tools
I will guarantee it will fix some of all your problems if not all.
dont skimp.
If you dont know what marine tinned is ( 2 Gauge (2 AWG) Extreme Battery Cable with Ends - Copper Extra Flexible Stranded)

this is the chunk under myLeft battery, all moldy green.
They were all really bad.
Next this cheap crimp tool works just fine from amazon
 

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Key trick or speedo button do not chow ECM/PCM codes. There is a cluster check that can be done, I forget how.

Open and read. pay attention to Afterburn about grounds. Check all harness plug sand grounds on fender, firewall and negative on battery. Check all hanress plug pins on ECM VP PCM and others for corrosion on any individual pin or socket hole.



380 and 382 are due to the deleted grid heaters.
 
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