before you pull it, place a 1/2" hose to the inlet side of the lift pump( ell shaped hose) and drop the other end in a can of fuel. prime the pump 20-30 times and see if it will start. Its time for the fuel lines to start deteriorating and leaking. Fuel won't show leak because it is not pressurized, just sucking. good luck
A serious clog at the tank intake could cause the symptom described as well, though it seems unlikely it would be that bad. The test suggested will diagnose that too. I replaced my l.p. not long ago just because I figured it was due with over 150K and before the price went back up at the Cummins dealer. I would recommend getting new gaskets. They're cheap and the last thing you want is to rip one and/or have it leak after installing the new pump. Its a good time to delete the fuel heater while its out if you haven't already. Get a pair of studs as described in other forum threads to make it easier to get back on.
I can vouch for the easier access with the tire and fender guard removed. I didn't remove anything, but I will if I do it again. I might even take the starter off. Its the most in the way item, but sort of a chore to remove and reinstall.
Make sure all of your Brake bleeders are free up before you remove your master cylinder, if they are froze and you can't get them open you will be replacing calipers and wheel cylinders... Just a thought
My lift pump had over 300k before it died. as mentioned above make sure the problem isn't before the pump.
If you have a vacuum booster for your brakes ('94 - '96) you can remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster and lean the master cylinder toward the fender without removing any brake lines. I don't know if that will work for later trucks.
Taking the starter out is pretty easy so no need to do it from above. Use studs instead of the stock bolts and the LP is easy to put back.
The removing the fender liner to get more room works with a 4X2 but does not help for a 4X4.
I am curious why everyone gets so worked up over these lift pumps last winter we had a freak early cold snap an mine jelled up real bad and the lift pump didnt seem to be working dont know for sure I was able to get it inside with a quart jar of fuel sitting above the pump i just for testing put on a electric pump that i had as a spare for my skidsteer a diesel one and it worked so good i mounted it and have kept it on since it is real nice for changing filters bleeding system when i re did my head a few weeks ago with all your help i did check the pressure and it runs about 7psi i have put about 30k on it since the pump was put on and no complaints if mine went out i would not think twice about putting on a electric
it runs just fine with the fuel pressure I have actually it starts better and runs better since i replaced the lift pump all the lift pump does is supply fuel to the injector pump and then the injector pump boosts the fuel pressure to the injectors as long as there is a adequate fuel supply why would the pressure really matter in theory you could set a 5 gal can on the hood and as long as the injector pump is never starved for fuel there should never be a issue
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