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leveling kit questions

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so i want to put a leveling kit on my truck, but i have heard that it is a good idea to get new strut and springs..is this true or will i be ok for a while?
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The only additional item is an adjustable track bar from Thuren Fabrications< Carli or Pure Performance.....Thuren is a bit more but bolts right up...I have the Pure Performance and I had to cut the fram bracket a little bit, but it works and price was right at the time.
 

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depends on how high.... any lift is going to create a difference and you have to compesate for it...

It will need an alignment and if you want the steering wheel to center up... get an offset balljoint and a track bar...
 

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depends on how high.... any lift is going to create a difference and you have to compesate for it...

It will need an alignment and if you want the steering wheel to center up... get an offset balljoint and a track bar...
So why do you need an offset ball joint?
 

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you dont need a track bar upgrade AT ALL for a regular 1.5 or 2 inch leveling kit. any yes your stock shocks will work. if you off road a lot or use a lot of your suspension so to speak they will "top out" front shocks are a good idea.
 

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Hey Nick. I have put on several and have a 2.5 on mine. I put it on and have not done anything since. I did not have to align my truck, and I don't have death wobble or cupping tires. All the trucks I have installed these on are all running the same way. Get a set ordered from Ebay and get um on. If you need a hand I would be more than happy to help ya out!:thumbsup:

P.S. I went with a 2.5 because I am on the longer frame. If you have a QC SB I would suggest a 2"!
 

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So why do you need an offset ball joint?
all depends on how high you go... Track bar and offset ball joint aid in keeping the steering wheel centered and your caster correct...

several guys have done a 2 inch kit and complained that the front axle seemed to favor on side or the other...

If done correctly instead of pinching penny's only to end up losing dollars, you don't end up with the death wobble and so on...

I did a 3 inch kit... Tow loads in excess of 12K and didn't feel like risking anything...

What is your budget and how much do you value piece of mind?
 

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all depends on how high you go... Track bar and offset ball joint aid in keeping the steering wheel centered and your caster correct...

several guys have done a 2 inch kit and complained that the front axle seemed to favor on side or the other...

If done correctly instead of pinching penny's only to end up losing dollars, you don't end up with the death wobble and so on...

I did a 3 inch kit... Tow loads in excess of 12K and didn't feel like risking anything...

What is your budget and how much do you value piece of mind?


So your telling me that your ball joints control your caster?
 

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when you go over 2.5 inches you have to compensate somewhere... there is no caster adjustment so they make a ball joint that is adjustable... if you don't adjust that, the wheel (axle) will sit to far back in the wheel well and the steering will bind due to the forces (weight) applied by the rest of the truck...

think about your first bicycle... the front forks were curved... even bmx bikes have a rake to the front fork... this is so your bike will travel straight with no pressure on the bars. If they just came straight down you would have to apply force to the bars to keep them from racking to one side or the other... there would be no way to go straight if you took your hands off...
 

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when you go over 2.5 inches you have to compensate somewhere... there is no caster adjustment so they make a ball joint that is adjustable... if you don't adjust that, the wheel (axle) will sit to far back in the wheel well and the steering will bind due to the forces (weight) applied by the rest of the truck...
WOW, you must work on alot of front ends? Or your a parts salesman? Oh wait maybe a car salesman?
 

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Really... that's how it is... LOL

I turn a lot of wrenches... don't like phones or people... LOL

Trucks and such... don't lie...
 

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Well you do have the right concept. The higher you go with stock length control arms. The farther back the axle gets pulled. Which in turn gives you to much positive caster. Caster adjustment is done by turning the eccentric located on the lower control arm. Camber is not effected by putting smaller or larger tires. Or by lowering or raising these trucks. The only way camber would be messed with is if one side was taller than the other side. Yes a track bar may be needed if you go over 3inches of lift. As well as longer control arms. Our trucks are set from the factory with the correct camber. The only way of changing it would be to some how mach and eccentric spacer, or buy and aftermarket balljoint. But the only way camber can be nocked out of place is by bending or tweaking the spindle. This may be done by hitting something hard. Otherwise the Camber does not need to be adjusted just by applying a lift.
You may turn alot of wrenches. But I went to school to turn wrenches. Still going to school to be a mechanical engineer(not enough money in turning wrenches). As well as my job to pay for school is to turn wrenches.
 

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No front end alignment or new ball joints needed!!! i did a 2" leveling kit and my steering wheel stayed straight and nothing got F*ed up so you will be perfectly fine!!
 

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but i did lose 2MPG by just adding the leveling kit though!!! i changed absolutly nothing but just just the leveling kit at the time and i lost 2 MPG by adding it... but i made a custom front valence/spoiler to compinsate and i picked up 3 MPG so i came out ahead!! and i can make you one for $350... i love it and love the looks of it as well
 

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No front end alignment or new ball joints needed!!! i did a 2" leveling kit and my steering wheel stayed straight and nothing got F*ed up so you will be perfectly fine!!

Same here. Mines an '05.
 

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^^^^ good to here dude!! :thumbsup:
 
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